Imjus4u2nv
Seaman
- Joined
- Jun 10, 2013
- Messages
- 57
I own a 1986 Mercury Inline 6, I had an overheat in the #3 cylinder and that cylinder stopped firing. After that the engine ran on 5 cylinders for a while, then dropped another cylinder (I think #1 but dont remember). As I was working on the boat to repair the dropped cylinders (which I thought were ignition coil so I bought new ones) it dropped another cylinder during the ignition coil swap, now I am not getting spark to three cylinders (all odd, 1,3,5 cylinders).
I brought my ohm meter and did test on the ignition coils, the trigger, and the stator.
I thought it may be a switch box issue, especially since it was odd cylinders that were not sparking. I tried swappping the two switch boxes and then i got not spark to any cylinders. I swapped them back to original formation, and only three cylinders. Possibly one bad switch box?
ALso, since I got no spark I thought it could be the trigger (another member on the site had suggested in the past so it was on my mind). I check the trigger for its ohm specs and it all was in range (from 12.34-12.65, specs was 11-14).
I then check the stator and all the specs were within range as well.
I do not know of any specific test to bench check a switch box.
I decided to also conduct test on ignition coils and found this which was odd:
cylinder 1 (NEW IGNITION COIL): 238 ohms (should be 800-1100)- NO SPARK
cylinder 2: (NEW IGNITION COIL): 238 ohms (should be 800-1100)- SPARK
cylinder 3: (cylinder that stopped sparking a few months ago)- NO SPARK
cylinder 4: No measurement, would not register, but this cylinder sparks- SPARK
cylinder 5: WITHIN RANGE- NO SPARK
cylinder 6: WITHIN RANGE- SPARK
I am waiting for a DVA adaptor to test the stator and the trigger. I have the specs but am uncertain how to test for this:
Stator- Low side (20v)
Stator- High side (180v)
Trigger- (4v+)- I believe his is the same test for ohms (Brown/Y to White, White to Violet/Y, and Violet and Brown/Y.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, trying to get it running before I pull it for the season so I can test it in the water and decide whether to drop a deposit on a dock slip.
I brought my ohm meter and did test on the ignition coils, the trigger, and the stator.
I thought it may be a switch box issue, especially since it was odd cylinders that were not sparking. I tried swappping the two switch boxes and then i got not spark to any cylinders. I swapped them back to original formation, and only three cylinders. Possibly one bad switch box?
ALso, since I got no spark I thought it could be the trigger (another member on the site had suggested in the past so it was on my mind). I check the trigger for its ohm specs and it all was in range (from 12.34-12.65, specs was 11-14).
I then check the stator and all the specs were within range as well.
I do not know of any specific test to bench check a switch box.
I decided to also conduct test on ignition coils and found this which was odd:
cylinder 1 (NEW IGNITION COIL): 238 ohms (should be 800-1100)- NO SPARK
cylinder 2: (NEW IGNITION COIL): 238 ohms (should be 800-1100)- SPARK
cylinder 3: (cylinder that stopped sparking a few months ago)- NO SPARK
cylinder 4: No measurement, would not register, but this cylinder sparks- SPARK
cylinder 5: WITHIN RANGE- NO SPARK
cylinder 6: WITHIN RANGE- SPARK
I am waiting for a DVA adaptor to test the stator and the trigger. I have the specs but am uncertain how to test for this:
Stator- Low side (20v)
Stator- High side (180v)
Trigger- (4v+)- I believe his is the same test for ohms (Brown/Y to White, White to Violet/Y, and Violet and Brown/Y.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, trying to get it running before I pull it for the season so I can test it in the water and decide whether to drop a deposit on a dock slip.