No Start - Slave Solnoid?

[juice69]

Changed the oil this afternoon, and took the plugs out to have look. When i was changing the first plug, i got spark (at the plug) that i thought was kind of odd. Finished everything up, and went to give it start and i got nothing (not even a click). I tested for volts up at the ignition, and those tested. Went back in and had a look at Don's sticky, so i tested the slave solnoid and got nothing when touching my meter to terminal C (and hitting the ignition power). So does this mean i have a bad slave solnoid or did i blow the ignition saftey switch? The circuit breaker on the top of the engine looks like it doesn't have to be reset (at least i couldn't push it in). BY the way, this is a 2004 mercruiser 3.0.

 

[Don S]

Re: No Start - Slave Solnoid?

Do you have power on the A terminal of the slave solenoid? Or any terminal of the ignition switch?

 

[juice69]

Re: No Start - Slave Solnoid?

Yes.

 

[Don S]

Re: No Start - Slave Solnoid?

Is that a yes to both? If you turn the key to run do the gauges come to life?

 

[juice69]

Re: No Start - Slave Solnoid?

Sorry, yes to both. No power on the gauges.

 

[Don S]

Re: No Start - Slave Solnoid?

Is there power to the yellow/red wire where it connects to the ign. sw, when you turn the key to start?

Did you check the 15A fuse under the dash?

What is the serial number of your engine?

 

[juice69]

Re: No Start - Slave Solnoid?

The power dies at the ignition switch when i turn the key (it's there prior to turning).

There a little 20amp fuse that's next to the swich that would (or should) pop out. It is NOT popped, so should be good there. Unless there's an inline somewhere else I'm missing.

Serial #owo38427

Thanks for your help don.

 

[Don S]

Re: No Start - Slave Solnoid?

The power dies at the ignition switch when i turn the key (it's there prior to turning).

That's a loose, or corroded connection. Battery cable, harness plug, who knows.

 

[juice69]

Re: No Start - Slave Solnoid?

Hmmm. That's not what i was hoping to hear!

One thing i did notice is that there was bit of corrosion on top of the starter.

I guess I'll start pulling all the connections and cleaning them up. I had no problem starting prior to the oil change (and pulling the plugs). It fired on the first turn.

 

[juice69]

Re: No Start - Slave Solnoid?

Don - could a fried starter allow enough volts through to the ignition (so that it shows volts on the test light - it was pretty dim when testing)? This starter is pretty corroded, and I'm thinking it's the culprit.

 

[Don S]

Re: No Start - Slave Solnoid?

Explain how you had your test light hooked up when you did the test, Where was the ground clip, and where did you put the probe.

 

[juice69]

Re: No Start - Slave Solnoid?

here's the pic the ignition. I was getting about 2 volts with the multimeter.

 

[juice69]

Re: No Start - Slave Solnoid?

here's the pic the ignition. I was getting about 2 volts with the multimeter.

View attachment 169476

 

[juice69]

Re: No Start - Slave Solnoid?

Today i replaced the battery cables to the starter and engine ground with new cables and fitting. Threw on a new inition switch (and fuse) since they were so cheap. I also grabbed a new slave soleniod since it was only $12. Had the starter tested - which came out ok. I also reseated the harness plug and made sure it was plugged in. Checked the battery with a volt meter and it's showing 12.4 volts.

Still have no power and no gauges, and I'm running out of things to check. Could this be the neutral safety switch?

 

[Don S]

Re: No Start - Slave Solnoid?

First of all, that is not how you use a test light or a meter.
The alligator clip should be on know good ground. Then you check for a light with the test light.
With a meter, you hook the black test lead to a good ground, then you use the red test lead to check for voltage. Make sure the meter is on DC Voltage for 12 volts.

With that information, the red wire on your ignition switch should have ~12 volts on it with the switch on or off. Does it?
With the key in the run position, you should have ~12 V on the purple wire and the red wire.
With the key in the start position, you should have power to all three teriminal.

Recheck them all and report back with your new findings.

Still have no power and no gauges, and I'm running out of things to check.

PS, you are not troubleshooting/checking things, you are throwing parts at it in hopes of finding the problem

 

[juice69]

Re: No Start - Slave Solnoid?

Thanks don! I checked the volts (using a good ground) and I have zero volts across the board on the ignition switch.

Although the guages don't work, the other accessories do work (i.e. lights, horn, bilge).

 

[Don S]

Re: No Start - Slave Solnoid?

If you don't have power to the red wire on the ignition switch, you might want to go back and use your newly learned meter skills and check all the other places mentioned in my sticky.

 

[juice69]

Re: No Start - Slave Solnoid?

Roger that!

 

[juice69]

Re: No Start - Slave Solnoid?

Figured it out. But first of all the wire that I had west marine crimp for me was no good. The problem, though, is this $20 fuse that goes on the starter.

http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/88-79023A91/Fuse+Assy-90+Amp,+Mercury+-+Mercruiser+88-79023A91.html


Don - thanks a million for all of your help. You really are amazing!