not getting fuel

Lawnpro979

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 17, 2014
Messages
232
hey guys,

I gotta head scratchier here, VP 4.3 Carbed Been sitting for 2 yrs. I removed the fuel. new battery, new water fuel separator, Put about 8 gallons of fresh fuel in her , cant get fuel to carb. So I removed the pump benched tested it, works just fine.
Checked fuses, checked relay all is good......at hot on relay I'm getting 12.9 V

We pulled the fuel line to pump to suck the fuel out, so this is telling me fuel is making it to the pump

Question. When does fuel pump engage? when starter is activated ?
is there a 2nd sorce of power to it after its running?
is there any power to it just with key on ?

thanks again.....
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
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Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,606
Being a carb motor I'm going to assume its a GL, but a GL what?

The GL uses feed from the Key switch (yellow/Red) to energize the start assist relay and the fuel pump relay. The feed to energize the FP relay goes thru a diode. If the diode opens then the relay is not energized.

Once the motor starts and the alternator turns ON, then power is feed thru another diode to keep the pump running

This is the GL-C/D
VP wiring GL_C,D.jpg
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,295
no, you need to troubleshoot.

if the pump works on the bench and not in the boat, something is wired wrong.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,606
Look at items 23 (Diodes) in the drawing above. One is connected to a Green wire and the other is connected to a Yellow/Red wire. The Y/R wire changes to Orange after the diode. Both Grn and Y/R wires connect to the same point on the relay

Use a voltmeter and connect the positive lead to the relay where the Org and Grn wires connect. Crank over the motor and see if you get 12V

If you do not get 12V, then find the diode is bad

If you do get 12V then connect meter to relay pin going to the pump

If you do get 12V when cranking then the ground connection on the pump is bad

If you do not get 12V at the pump when cranking then the relay is bad
 

emoney

Commander
Joined
Jul 19, 2010
Messages
2,551
By the way, did you fill the fuel water separator cannister with gas before reinstalling? If so, to confirm the bulb is at least pulling it to the motor, spin it off and make sure it's still in there.

I missed this once and almost went all through the entire fuel system before I figured it out, lol. So now, I at least remind people just in case so they don't through all that trouble.
 

Lawnpro979

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 17, 2014
Messages
232
ok got it thanks .....Also NO I did NOT prime the water fuel separator before installing it.......I was going to try that today....
 

Lawnpro979

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 17, 2014
Messages
232
ok got it............. Everything wasn't making sense I checked everything
Took the pump back off bench testing it again....nothing but humming....... Messed with it for a few. got it to work... Left it on bench. start stop let it run for 1/2 a day.....it seems fine....

put it all back together and WOO HOO, she's working

Running like Crap-o-la I can foresee new plugs and possible a carb kit...

I was a little Leary of using the pump the only thing I can think of is that it had stuck... maybe it had corrosion in it and bumping it cleaning it did the trick that's why I let it run so long.....

after 2 years of sitting I was surprised at how fast it started up...

thanks everyone
 
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