Oh, I've got problems 707HF

[mrwiggles2]

I just bought a Harbor Freight compression tester, so went out to try it. Warmed the engine and found dark oil seepage from the #2 cylinder plug. Thought it was loose from putting in Deep Creep in Fall. Gave it a turn, it is stripped. Now what? I wound up rotating the plugs and got one to go in ok, but I see a bit of leaking- this is all at idle. I open her up on the water, its gonna get worse. #1-115 psi, #3- 118psi, #2-?

Second issue: Noticed the propeller isn't spinning in neutral, it used to. Gear engagement is perfect. Would the seal kit and water pump kit have done something or did I do it?

Third issue: Tilt and Trim slow, so I thought I'd get the air out or add some SAE30. Well, it went up and down, but on the second attempt, no downward movement. Saw smoke coming from the switch. Its a 20amp switch, no relays on this model it appears, blue, black and green wires I saw. Where do I get a new switch? Never added relays, is it hard?

All I want to do is fish, now all this. My compression seems low, wonder what good news you'll have for me. Thank you for your assistance.

 

[RRitt]

Re: Oh, I've got problems 707HF

RE: trim and tilt

if your engine is 1987 or earlier then you have the option of using ISO32 hydraulic oil or non-detergent motor oil. The hydraulic oil is thinner. It will run up & down faster and give better performance in cold weather.

air in fluid makes no difference. top it off and run it. It either works or it doesn't.

try wiring straight to battery to check system out before getting to worked up over switch. It is quite possible that your motor has issues and is drawing too much current. The additional current blow fuses, makes things smoke, and creates bigger voltage drop in cable (which makes it run even more slowly).

 

[CapCramer]

Re: Oh, I've got problems 707HF

They have a system called heli-coil that puts threads in where they have been stripped.

#2- If the prop was spinning it wouldn't be called neutral

#3 Do a search on tilt-trim, there are numerous threads out there about them.
If you don't have a manual, you should get one. Clymer, not the pos Seloc that I use.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Oh, I've got problems 707HF

You think you have problems? Problems are when the engine will not start for no apparent cause. Problems are when a piston melts due to detonation and shatters the rings, deeply scoring the cylinder liner.

Problems are when water gets into the lower unit and the pinion and forward gear strip all the teeth--usually miles away from the dock.

You are comparing a cavity to a root canal. LOL.

Now: down to business. Yes as stated above, you can Heli-Coil the stripped plug hole BUT there are better repairs--I forget the trade name but they are specifically for spark plugs.

If this does not please you aesthetically, heads are relatively cheap because even though they are aluminum, they strip relatively rarely and not much else can go wrong with them. SO: occasionally they come up for sale on the auctions AND---You can use any year three cylinder head up until Mercury discontinued Force engines. The bolt pattern never changed and the later ones are finned for added heat rejection.

And yes: Old seals will be looser than new, so while the shaft may spin in neutral from the resistance of the internal oil, with new tighter seals, it may not.

Third: It is possible to relatively easily retrofit a three wire system to relays. If you can find them, four pin relays will work while the center black wire will still be connected directly to ground. If you can not find four pin, use 5 pin and do not wire the socket terminal that is default ground. I get all my relays and sockets at the U-Pull-It auto junkyard.

 

[mrwiggles2]

Re: Oh, I've got problems 707HF

Frank, thank you. I think I can find 4 pin relays. If I am able, is there a thread that explains how to wire them? I think I can handle it with instruction.

I would guess that my motor is probably pulling too much load, as not only has the switch area smoked, the wires (plug) that connected the battery to the tilt motor melted a few weeks ago- not good as they sit inches from the gas tank. The wires (black sheath) that goes into the tilt motor gets hot just going up or down, so I'd guess a new tilt motor is probably in order.

 

[CapCramer]

Re: Oh, I've got problems 707HF

Just to be cautious, check and clean your negative ground cable at the battery and where it connects to the motor. A bad ground can cause many problems.

 

[RRitt]

Re: Oh, I've got problems 707HF

Before you go hawg wild hunting for relays and stuff check your trim system with the motor is directly wired to a battery. All of your symptoms could be caused by a failing motor. If oil gets up into the motor then it can draw too much amperage while putting out too little torque. This is a relatively common ailment in the 25+ year time frame.

 

[Tim Wagner]

Re: Oh, I've got problems 707HF

Ive been rooting around on Ebay lately for some gems.
I believe I saw some of them relays on there.
Have a look.

 

[RRitt]

Re: Oh, I've got problems 707HF

why would you bother with ebay for relays when they are only $5-$6 brand new?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/cat...15&a=Search+for+STANDARD+MOTOR+PRODUCTS+RY115

 

[mrwiggles2]

Re: Oh, I've got problems 707HF

Here is an update to my situation. I went to a local shop and asked to do the heli-coil, so he said to pull the head. Once I got it there I found that the #3 cylinder was stripped too. He said I need to get a new head. So, for $50 I bought a new to me head. Its newer than the 1973 that came with the boat and in nicer paint shape. I posted earlier that my prop doesn't spin in neutral- I know, after reading it, it does sound a bit moronic. But, now that I have the new head on, in neutral it is slowly turning. So, I figure I must have been losing a fair amount of compression with that stripped spark plug.

After discussing my trim issues, he told me that it sounded like my motor was on the way out. Which I think as you all have pointed out, is what is going on. I could get a rebuild kit for $11, assuming I can do it myself.

My wires to the battery are good because I just reworked them. Had a smoldering meltdown first day I brought the boat home, a few weeks ago. Wires were all corroded. Once I put new 12ga. wire and soldered new connections, it worked good. But now the switch is arcing a bit, I can hear it crackle from time to time if I use it too much. I also noticed that the motor won't stay up on its own, it slowly over a couple days works its way down. I only know this because I forgot to put the lock on. But, I keep saying, for 1973 equipment, its long in the tooth and tired. Looks good, just tired. If I can freshen it up with new parts, I can probably get more time.

Lastly, does anyone happen to have or know where I can get the heater alarm? I wrenched too hard tonight, my big 14" pythons and busted it in half.

 

[RRitt]

Re: Oh, I've got problems 707HF

make sure your circuit board isn't cracked before buying the $11 rebuild kit. If circuit board is cracked then you need a different part. If inside of motor is not rusted then $11 could be feasible. Wash it out really good with white paint thinner and that should get rid of most oily residues. Don't use anything harsh or you might dissolve insulating paint from windings wire and cause a short. New cable is standard 12/3 SJO available at your local hardware store.