Oil in Bellows

BobMaio

Seaman
Joined
Jan 6, 2011
Messages
54
I have a multipart question that I would appreciate help on. Basically, I have a gear oil leak into the bellows. The outdrive is a MercCruiser Alpha1 Gen II.

Some background first. I had a vibration in my drive both at idle and at speed. It was noticeable for a while during the summer but had suddenly got worse. I pulled the drive and replaced the U-Joints. I checked the Gimbal Bearing and it seemed fine. When I replaced the U-Joints, I removed the U-Joint assembly thinking it would give me access around the Castle Retainer nut for the tool. But there was still no access for the tool and decided to make minor cuts into the castle nut for access rather than take the Assembly apart. At the time I was concerned about resetting the bearing preload because I don’t have the proper torque wrench. So I replaced the U-Joints, re-installed the Assembly and torqued it to 131 FP (which gave the proper 200 FP torque at the castle nut). After that, I reinstalled the drive. I drove the boat a few hours without any issues that I am aware of, and the vibration was gone. After a few days with the boat on the trailer, I noticed the Gear Lube Monitor was low on oil, almost empty. I pulled the vent plug on the drive and verified the drive had oil. Then I decided to pull the drive and that’s when I discovered a ton of oil in the bellows. I have since pressure tested the drive and I can hear a leak at the U-Joint shaft. It is not leaking at the castle nut Retainer. So here are my questions:

Question 1: Is it a coincidence that the leak started after I pulled the Assembly from the drive or did I screw something else up in the process? I didn’t disassemble the unit so I am puzzled as to why it started to leak. It was laying on the bench as I replaced the U-Joints so could that have contributed to it?

Question 2: Having all that gear oil in the bellows, could it have ruined the Gimbal Bearing, Bellows, or the new U-Joints that I installed? I read somewhere that the gear oil could contribute to washing out the grease. The U-Joints are the Permalube type.

Question 3: I plan on replacing the seal and have ordered the proper inch pound torque wrench to perform the preload. But in the service manual there is a section called “Checking and Adjusting Drive Gear Location”. I am very confused about what this is and when it needs to be performed. It has to do with positioning the Drive Gear properly. Can someone explain what this is about?

So, sorry for such a long set of questions, but if anyone can help me out I would really appreciate it.
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
Question 1 - yes. It is a coincidence. They happen though. Reality is all that matters, it leaks.

Questions 2 - possibly yes. If you have sealed u-joints and gimbal bearings, they will not like having run in a high impact/pressure environment of oil. If they are greasable, grease em and run em. The bellows is fine.

Question 3 - you do not have to re-shim drive gear since you are just resealing.
 

BobMaio

Seaman
Joined
Jan 6, 2011
Messages
54
Thankyou for the quick response. I was planning on replacing the Gimbal Bearing next year so I will do that now. The U-Joints on the other hand are new. Do you think if I remove them, clean them up and reapply grease they will be OK? On one hand, the cost is significant and on the other I rather not find out they went bad while the boat is in the water next season.
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
If they are grease-able, just grease them, push any oil out. They'll be fine. You won't be able to see anything if you disassemble anyway. They should be fine.
 

BobMaio

Seaman
Joined
Jan 6, 2011
Messages
54
Unfortunately they are permalube with no grease fittings. So I figure I need to pull them apart and clean any oil residue and re-grease them. Which brings up another point, should I be avoiding the permalube parts? Even the new Gimbal Bearing I have is permalube.
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
I consider them a negative thing. Manufacturers sell them as lower maintenance, but what they are is a time bomb.

For instance, John Deere now builds their $450,000 combine with a 10,000 hour low service requirement - very few daily and weekly grease points for a minimum of time each day before going to work. Problem is there are hundreds of sealed bearings. Once they start failing, the combine is trash. Same thing here. Sealed bearings handle NO MAINTENANCE much better than grease-able bearings. So the average boater who doesn't really give a damn can buy his $100,000 boat and ignore maintenance for the first 6 years. Warranty over, who cares what fails?

Grease-able bearings and u-joints will last forever if greased.
 

Baylinerchuck

Commander
Joined
Jul 29, 2016
Messages
2,737
Rick Stephens couldnt agree more. Same exact thing in the industrial maintenance realm. Sealed permanently greased bearings are always first to fail. Properly maintained bearings with zerk fittings last much, much longer.
 
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