OK to bypass circuit breaker?

[Finnerty]

Dewinterizing the boat and have a no start scenario with my 1977 MIE 330.
First try starter engages then quits.
Second try, nothing at all
Check all connections, poke the circuit breaker button, not popped
Third try slave solenoid clicks, but no starter action
Could this be due to a faulty breaker?
Can I cut the wires and bypass the breaker to test?

 

[ondarvr]

Just check for power on both sides of the breaker, you don't need to cut any wires or bypass anything.

 

[alldodge]

+1 agree, even if it is blown, don't cut just jump across

 

[fhhuber]

The breaker is not likely to be the issue.

Sounding possibly like inadequate actuation voltage to the solenoid or a bad solenoid.

Check for dirty/corroded connections.

 

[thumpar]

^^^ Check for bad connections. Don't cut anything.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... Sounds like ole corroded wirin' connections,....

 

[Scott Danforth]

If all your connections are not clean and shiney enough to eat off them, make them clean and shiney. If its green, it's gotta go.

 

[Finnerty]

Could this be due to a faulty breaker?
Can I cut the wires and bypass the breaker to test?

Well I now realize that there are terminals under boots on the circuit breaker, they give me continuity and no change to my no start condition when I jump them.

So moving on to check elsewhere for problems:
I cleaned all ground terminals on the block, and terminals on the circuit breaker, slave solenoid, starter and start battery.

I checked at the solenoid:
Big red/purple 12.77 v
Black/yellow (neutral safety) to ground continuity 0.3 ohms in neutral
And with the ignition switch turned to start:
Solenoid clicks, but Big Yellow/red to starter gives 0.2 v
Small yellow/red gives 11.2 v from stud to ground
(And 12.1 v when not connected from stud to ground)

I'm guessing the problem is a voltage drop on the ignition switch side?
Wondering what to check for next?

Thanks

 

[Bt Doctur]

just short the 2 large lugs on the slave ,starter should spin .If yes .solenoid is not making the connection internally
If no spin, you have a bad battery cable connection

 

[Finnerty]

just short the 2 large lugs on the slave ,starter should spin .If yes .solenoid is not making the connection internally
If no spin, you have a bad battery cable connection

Starter spins when I jump across the 2 large lugs
So I guess it's the solenoid, but it is a new solenoid, so that's weird

Prior to these troubles I installed a new alternator
Old one was 4 wires
New one is 2 wires, Batt connected to S lug on starter
Ground connected to block
I terminated the old sens and esc wires (separately)
Is this OK?

 

[Finnerty]

The breaker is not likely to be the issue.

Sounding possibly like inadequate actuation voltage to the solenoid or a bad solenoid.

Check for dirty/corroded connections.

I also tried giving the solenoid a higher actuation voltage,with a jumper 12.4v
(It was getting only 11.2 v from the ignition)

Maybe I fried the solenoid by wiring my new alternator to the starter S lug (which connects to the solenoid by the large yellow/red wire?

 

[alldodge]

Prior to these troubles I installed a new alternator
Old one was 4 wires
New one is 2 wires, Batt connected to S lug on starter
Ground connected to block

The ALT output wire needs to be connected to the main starter terminal via the 90 amp fuse.

 

[alldodge]

BTW, connect a meter to the small Yel/Red wire on the slave solenoid. Turn the key to start and there should be 12V on the wire. If you have 12V when key is turned to start, check the small black wire on the other side, it goes to ground

 

[Scott Danforth]

Starter spins when I jump across the 2 large lugs
So I guess it's the solenoid, but it is a new solenoid, so that's weird

Prior to these troubles I installed a new alternator
Old one was 4 wires
New one is 2 wires, Batt connected to S lug on starter
Ground connected to block
I terminated the old sens and esc wires (separately)
Is this OK?

the S terminal on the starter is the Start terminal.
The M terminal on the starter is the Motor side
The B terminal on the starter is the Battery terminal

the S terminal on the alternator is the sensing terminal.

your BATT connection from your alternator should go to the B terminal on the starter (with the 90 amp fuse) which goes back to the battery.

 

[Finnerty]

BTW, connect a meter to the small Yel/Red wire on the slave solenoid. Turn the key to start and there should be 12V on the wire. If you have 12V when key is turned to start, check the small black wire on the other side, it goes to ground

I checked at the solenoid:
Big red/purple 12.77 v
Black/yellow (neutral safety) to ground continuity 0.3 ohms in neutral
And with the ignition switch turned to start:
Solenoid clicks, but Big Yellow/red to starter gives 0.2 v
Small yellow/red gives 11.2 v from stud to ground
(And 12.1 v when not connected from stud to ground)
I also tried giving the solenoid a higher actuation voltage,with a jumper 12.4v, but still no start.

 

[Finnerty]

BATT connection from your alternator should go to the B terminal on the starter (with the 90 amp fuse) which goes back to the battery.

I don't have a 90 amp fuse, but if I did it would go on the wire to the circuit breaker, right?
The BATT connection from the alternator does not get the fuse, it just shares the B terminal post, right?

 

[Scott Danforth]

I don't have a 90 amp fuse, but if I did it would go on the wire to the circuit breaker, right?
The BATT connection from the alternator does not get the fuse, it just shares the B terminal post, right?

see post #12.

 

[alldodge]

And with the ignition switch turned to start:
Solenoid clicks, but Big Yellow/red to starter gives 0.2 v

Solenoid clicks but is not passing juice

Small yellow/red gives 11.2 v from stud to ground

This is good enough

(And 12.1 v when not connected from stud to ground)

If your saying your getting 12.1V when the key is released into Run, then this is wrong. It should have no voltage

In short from what I read is:
Have 12V on Red/Purple large post of slave
Turn key to start, voltage on small Yel/red stud and relay clicks but no voltage on large Yel/Red stud
Starter will turn over when manually jumping large studs on slave

Sounds like a bad slave solenoid to me

 

[Bt Doctur]

If the solenoid is clicking and nothing starts but if you short the 2 large lugs and it starts the contacts are not making contact internally.
And as far as the "90A fuse" goes it should only connect to the alt not the ships power. That is protected by the 50A circuit breaker

 

[Finnerty]

see post #12.

I thought the orange in the starter diagram was the BATT wire from my 2 wire alternator.
So if the red/purple is the BATT wire, what is the orange?