Ok, what to check /PICS PICS--Low Power

[emoney]

So, I've got great water flow thanks to the sticky and subsuquent change
of the impeller. Everything shifts fine, and it starts well. As a matter
of fact, it SEEMS to run ok at idle/low speed. However, I may be allowing
for a lot of leeway, as my other outboard is a 'Rude 9.9 with no insulation
under the cowling on my sailboat, so it's kinda loud.
It does seem to be a 'little' rough.
The biggest problem is, I don't have any speed at all? I know there needed
to be a main idle jet adjustment, and I'm not sure I've got that correct yet,
but it seemed to be a little on the lean side before I adjusted it.

What do I look for next, as to the low power when running issue? Also, how
do I really know when I have the air/fuel mixture right, and would this cause
the engine to have no top end power? I've got my trusty manual, but I'm
not sure what I'm looking for/at, so somebody direct me please (hint, hint
Frank & Jerry). Nothing got abnormally hot under the cowling now that I've
changed the lower unit. Keep in mind, it starts well, idles on it's own, and
goes forward and reverse? Also, if somebody suggest 'check
spark', please clarify that

 

[emoney]

Re: Ok, what to check now on my 50hp?--Low Power

Re: Ok, what to check now on my 50hp?--Low Power

Question for the group about the fuel pump diaphram. 1st of all, would
this affect top end performance? And, what's considered 'bad'. In a nutshell,
I've removed the fuel pump to get to the diaphram. Removed it and I've
found there to be some 'flaking' (best way I can describe it). However,
when I hold the diaphram to the light, I can't see through it? I'm assuming
the flaking is a bad thing, so I'm going to replace it, but, would this
be the cause of the low power issue?

Also, there's a lot of 'black' where the diaphram attaches. Specifically, it's
really black on the fuel pump's larger round side where the diaphram meets
it? I hope this makes sense, and I'm curious is this a problem and should
I clean it, or is this perfectly normal and leave it alone?

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: Ok, what to check now on my 50hp?--Low Power

Re: Ok, what to check now on my 50hp?--Low Power

Spark test: You need a spark gap tester.$6 at auto Zone.Spark should jump 7/16in.
Air screw will not affect the high end speed.
Diaphram and pump valves affect speed at all RPM's.
Mercury has a pump on a 50 that one of the valves is a piece of plastic about the size of a quarter and about as thick as a 1/2 matchbook..One little crinkle in this plastic caused this motor to run like crap.
There should be NOTHING in the pump but fuel.Scaling ???Ethanol??
Lots of carbon in the housing could be the impulse line is defective.I believe it has a valve in the hose to allow one way suck only.
iboats.com Mercury Force Outboard Parts 50 H.P. FUEL PUMP Diagram. Go to this site and look for #20
Air screw at 1 and 1/8th turn is gonna be real close.J

 

[emoney]

Re: Ok, what to check now on my 50hp?--Low Power

Re: Ok, what to check now on my 50hp?--Low Power

Ok, I'll pick up the spark tester tomorrow. I guess it could even be running
on one cylinder, which I'm sure would account for the issue. Thanks, too, for
the fuel pump hint because if nothing else, it definitely needed some attention
and cleaning. I have a 'parts motor' that has a better looking diaphram that
I changed out. PO had 'jerry rigged' (no coincidence, lol) the ignition system
by using aftermarket coils that actually look like automotive coils. Is this
a major problem? The coils on the parts motor, I know, where functioning,
but there's cracks on the coil cases themselves. Can I use these coils even
with those 'cracks'? I'll post a picture tomorrow, as well, but it's mainly
because I can't find replacements for them. Everything I find looks nothing
like the OEM part. Any suggestions on finding replacement coils?

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: Ok, what to check now on my 50hp?--Low Power

Re: Ok, what to check now on my 50hp?--Low Power

Cracks aren't a good sign.Start the motor and pull one plug wire at a time.
What pieces do you have:coils etc.that you can replace?
Post some pics of the coils from both motors.E-bay for parts.Frank has some parts too. valleysales@charter.net 989 366-8178
Don't use old diaphrams,they are cheap.The valves use them.
Have you done a compression test(can't remember)?
Oh yea it's JURY rig. J

 

[emoney]

Re: Ok, what to check now on my 50hp?--Low Power

Re: Ok, what to check now on my 50hp?--Low Power

That's right, "Jury Rig"....no wonder.
Yes to the compression test and it was good. 133 top 130 bottom.
I have everything, parts wise. I have the original coils from one motor,
that were still working, and they're the ones with cracks. The crack is
actually more of a 'separation line' where the cylinder meets the top.
It's not a pressure or stress crack, just a widening of the line where the
case was made due to years of use, I imagine. They even look as if
someone down the line put some type of sealant to keep the case
waterproof??? (don't hold me to that, just an observation). I've tried
to post pics at work, to no avail so I'll do so this evening from home.

I'll send an email to Frank right now and see if he has coils that will
fit it because I'd much rather replace with new than try and get by if at
all possible. You've been a great help, Jerry, although I wish you would
move from Sebastian up to Tampa Bay! Come on, man, we've got better
weather!!!!!

 

[emoney]

Re: Ok, what to check now on my 50hp?--Low Power

Re: Ok, what to check now on my 50hp?--Low Power

Bad pics as I'm having issues uploading. However, the original coils are the
black ones. If you look close enough at the bottom, you can see the crack
or separation I'm talking about.
The blue coils are the 'automotive coils' that PO had installed.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: Ok, what to check /PICS PICS--Low Power

I'd try the other coils.The automotive just ain't designed to work in most outboard situations.

 

[emoney]

Re: Ok, what to check /PICS PICS--Low Power

That's kinda what I thought. They might have done the job for a little
while, but I"m sure there's a reason why manufacturer's didn't use them
all along.

I have it all back together now, using the factory coils from the spare, and
I'll try to put it in the can tonight and let you know how it goes. This may
sound a little simple, but; I can just pull off the plug wires one at a time to
know that both cylinders are firing, right? And, if they are, then we'll know it's
not a electric issue, correct?

Of course, I'm hoping it fires up, runs strong and has plenty
of power and the culmination of everything I've done was the solution. If
not.....??

 

[emoney]

Re: Ok, what to check /PICS PICS--Low Power

What would cause some lower unit fluid to leak out the top of
the lower unit (where it bolts to the middle section)? Is that possibly
an issue with the stainless steel plate (friction plate?) beneath the
water pump? And if so, does it mean it's just bad? I'm pretty sure
the bolts are torqued pretty tight. Arrrggghhhh, I just got this thing
all back together!

And, even worse, it was running pretty good on the hard.....oh well.....

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: Ok, what to check /PICS PICS--Low Power

You sure it's gear oil?The way to test is with a pressure tester,or drain and check for water.
Under the stainless plate is a seal that can leak.J

 

[emoney]

Re: Ok, what to check /PICS PICS--Low Power

No, and as a matter of fact, it seemed like 'automotive oil'? It definitely
doesn't have that gear oil smell and it's quite a bit thinner. But, why would
there be oil there if it's not lower unit fluid?

Of course, now that I'm thinking about it, I don't remember a seal/gasket
under the stainless plate. I know for a fact I didn't install one but I can't
remember removing one either??? I guess it's going to have to come down,
isn't it?

Also, when you get the time, please read my 'flywheel' thread. I've only
got 1 cylinder and that's about 1/2 what I need.

 

[emoney]

Re: Ok, what to check /PICS PICS--Low Power

Ok, Jerry. You helped without even answering anything, just asking, lol.
I started thinking about that oil leak stuff and it's not lower unit fluid so I
am so happy I don't have to drop that thing again, lol. (ps, I remember the
smalled rubber gasket you were talking about and yes, I did have that
because I checked to make sure it was ok).

I had forgotten about the whole "Lean/Rich" adjustment I had made and
I went waaaayyyyyy rich because it was so lean before. Looks like I might
have went a little to far to the left. Oh well, at least that's a lesson
learned and a much easier problem to have!