Okay.... Update on the Rebuild of my Evinrude... & Question 9/10/02

Jmorrell588 · Sep 6, 2002

***Evinrude 1989 VRO Crossflow 2 Stroke 4 Cyl. Note - the powerhead on the motor mount is a 97 powerhead* Nothing has changed except for a few updated features since the 89' model**** Okay, if you have followed along on my last post of taking my motor apart to rebuild it (due to a bad piston and cylinder), I just got the block off the body and tomorrow I will open her up and clean it out good and put the rod caps back on once I take the rods/bearings and piston out of the cylinders. I have decided that since this is a big task for me, I want to go ahead and bore out each cylinder while I have it out and open. I figured that I have learned a great deal on how to properly mantain a motor since I now know what caused this problem. I owe the knowledge to this site and how to care for a motor and make it last. But only after something went wrong, as in most cases with everything in life. So, the question is this, is Napa a okay place to take my cylinder's to and have them bore it out ? or, does anyone have a place or know of a place in the Atlanta region that they trust, where I could take this over and have it bored? I am willing to travel 70 miles or so. I have labled every single wire, every bolt has been put back into the holes and the other end is cable tied to as not to loose them and I do not have to worry about labling them since I have then cable tied and they cannot come out. I have taken over 50 pictures of removal steps to insure I know where all pieces go back to. Not sure if this will help or not. On the shift lever, I even cabled tired them in the exact motion that they where in. All I have to do and just put bolt them back on. Same for the spark advance lever. Thought something tells me that this will be needing adjusting, but will cross that bridge when I get to it. I have noted that some bolts will be replaced from reading the manual, so I colored them red (so I know that the color means replace.) but installed them back so I can remember where they go when I get the new ones. Jimmy

ob · Sep 6, 2002

Re: Okay.... Update on the Rebuild of my Evinrude... & Question 9/10/02

Jimmy ,I've been an industrial mechanic for twenty plus years and over that time I've learned that any machining job whether it is performed in Hooterville is only as good as the machinist doing the job.Determine the size cylinders will be bored to and if your concerned as to the concentricity of his work a good machinist will gladly show you his crossover readings after work is performed.

hondon · Sep 6, 2002

Re: Okay.... Update on the Rebuild of my Evinrude... & Question 9/10/02

Why have you made the decision to overbore all the cylinders? By doing this you have promised yourself that the next time this engine has a major failure that powerhead is junk.Overboreing just one cylinder on these units is entirely acceptable and standard practice.Then factor in the cost of four new oversised pistons, boreing costs?Do what you need to do but I think your getting carried away.

RPJS · Sep 6, 2002

Re: Okay.... Update on the Rebuild of my Evinrude... & Question 9/10/02

I totaly agree with hondon. There is no reason to overbore all 4 pots on your motor, the only thing you will achive buy doing this is a fist full of added expence. I would certainly look at having the pots honed to remove any glaze but that would be as far as I would go. I remember a few words of advice my Grandfather gave me "if it ain't busted don't fix it"

Jmorrell588 · Sep 6, 2002

Re: Okay.... Update on the Rebuild of my Evinrude... & Question 9/10/02

Hello Mr. RPJS and Hondon as well as OB, I had decided based on the oponion of a the mechanic from Smyrna Marine. He had stated that since this is the first bore job on this these walls, that I had at least two more turns left on the sleeve's, and that it is better to get all cylinder's bored one turn to get the others to match the bad cylinder. Now I do agree with your statements, but even though I can tell that there is one bad cylinder with the cut wall, I could tell there was a groove starting in another cylinder, which it could be corrected by just honing that cylinder. I just figured that since I will be doing one, why not get the other 3 the same for peace of mind. I have heard all kinds of reason to only do just the one that is bad and leave the other alone. So, now I am rethinking this over now. I do thank you for your input and that is the reason I am hear, to hear what others might have to say so that I can make a sounds decision. Since I am hear, I would like to know if "Wiseco" pistons are okay to buy or should I try to stick with OMC pistons? I have been told that Wiseco piston are just as good. Jimmy

ob · Sep 6, 2002

Re: Okay.... Update on the Rebuild of my Evinrude... & Question 9/10/02

Jmorrell your thinking is clear to me .There's a reason that manufacturers don't put different sized pistons in different holes on the same motor.It's refered to as mechanical and dynamic imballance.I personally would pick-up a good second hand motor before performing a major on one whose other components may be in well used condition.However if you choose to invest in the overhaul i would do all cylinders .

clanton · Sep 7, 2002

Re: Okay.... Update on the Rebuild of my Evinrude... & Question 9/10/02

IF you use the Wiseco piston, have someone bore the block, that has used a lot of Wiseco pistons, they take more clearence, and the last time I look at a Wiseco, their instruction did not indicate this. The OMC and Wiseco standard and oversize pistons suppose to weight the same. No problem with boring 1 hole, if the other 3 are in specs. I would consider a Pro piston. Precision in Clearwater Florida 1-727-446-1163 sells pistons, most brands, and may refer you to a machine shop in GA.

Dhadley · Sep 7, 2002

Re: Okay.... Update on the Rebuild of my Evinrude... & Question 9/10/02

Wiseco pistons for your motor come in standard, 0.020, 0.030, 0.044 and 0.064 oversize. I would strongly suggest taking the block to, or having your dealer send it to, a machine shop that specializes in outboard boring. The newest Wiseco pistons (31 series) don't have to be clearanced differently than OE pistons. The series you need is 3173. The machine shop you choose should be familiar with all this. Your decision to bore all is very sound. Yes you can mix sizes. It has no effect what so ever. Once your machine shop measures your cylinders with a dial bore gauge you will see they are most likely out of round. To hone them back to round you will be very near, or past, the end of the tolerance. The minimal cost vs. logevity alone makes it worthwhile. As far as the pistons go, Wiseco pistons are forged rather than cast. There are guidelines for using either. It really depends on how the motor is set up. If you decide on a cast piston the Vertex pistons work well. Tell us more about how the motor is set up including what top RPM you will be looking for. Good luck!

Chris Wilson · Sep 7, 2002

Re: Okay.... Update on the Rebuild of my Evinrude... & Question 9/10/02

Hey, you might just be the guy we're looking for. We are in the process of "attempting" to remove a powerhead on our '91 Evinrude VRO. The problem is we are not having any success on getting it free. We have a manual and are pretty sure all the bolts out and linkages are free. Did you have any problems separating your powerhead? If so, how did you finally get it free? Meanwhile we'll keep working on it - hope you can help!

BillP · Sep 7, 2002

Re: Okay.... Update on the Rebuild of my Evinrude... & Question 9/10/02

Like in aircraft engine rebuilds, there are "within wear" spec limits and new "factory spec" limits on the tolerances. This same standard can be applied to outboards. Even though three of the original pistons may be ok now they will likely have a shorter life than the new piston assy. Get the "out of tolerance" specs and have a machinest measure the original parts. How close are the used parts to being out of spec? If they are close to the new piston use them. But remember, the crank and rods also play into this so there is a domino effect on the tolerances. Make your decision based on hard data. A "motorhead" type machinest can lead you through this.

Jmorrell588 · Sep 7, 2002

Re: Okay.... Update on the Rebuild of my Evinrude... & Question 9/10/02

** This Post is for Prop Head** I did not have a problem get the head seperated from the Mount. What I need to know is this from you, What Horse Power do you have and is this a in-line or a cross flow Motor and also how many pistons? I have a 90 HP VRO and if I am correct, that for this model which would be same for 90hp up to 115hp mounts for V-4 Cross Flows, you will have a total of 12 slots that hold this power head in place from up under. Then you will have to bolts under the hood just aft of the block. There should be one on the left of the rear cylinder head gasket and one on the right side that is just a brace to holed the block there while installing. Now, the other 12 I mentioned! there are four that are Nuts. Out of those 12, Two Nuts will be foward on the mount and two will be aft of the mounts. (Note! these 12 are all accessed by going under the mount, you will have to take off the shirt/Collar/ or Cover to access some of these slots.) So that will leave only 8 more slots, those slots will be long bolts that might appear to some as not part of the block holding mounts, but they are part of it. There should be 4 on each side. I do advise that you have a wench of some sort to pull this block off, a manual one that you can get from walmart that you can crank by hand will work just fine. Also have another person there so that when it does break lose, have that person just hold the block so that it does not sway back and forth damaging the threads. Just follow that manual and you have and just keep looking. They are all there and do put clean rags in slots that are open so as not to allow foreign objects from entering those areas. Jimmy

ehaskins · Sep 7, 2002

Re: Okay.... Update on the Rebuild of my Evinrude... & Question 9/10/02

I agree with clanton. You are fine to bore just one. I do IT and Web development for Powerhead Exchange in Tampa and they will bore just the cylinder thats needs to be bored. I also know a couple mechanics that that bore the opposite side so you have the same force on the crank. As for the powerhead being junk after next failure (if you bore all) Not true unless you toss a rod. They can install sleeves in most engines. Not fun to do and they can get expensive Powerhead can bore that for you if you want to ship it to us.Specialize in OMC and Yamaha 813-673-8866 Eric

Jmorrell588 · Sep 9, 2002

Re: Okay.... Update on the Rebuild of my Evinrude... & Question 9/10/02

Hello all, I have the block off and it is sitting on the bench. I have gotten all the way into the tear down to the part where you take the piston rod/Caps and bearings off. I chickened out at the end since I was tired from work today and decided to wait until tomorrow evening to take them off. I do know about marking them and once I get them off and the piston out, that I need to attach them back like they came off so as not to forget how they went back. Now, I did notice that when I looked at where the rod caps connect, there appears to be some blue in them around the section where they where split. I am wondering if that was done when they cut them or if it is something that started since I have had it? I have taken pictures with a digital camera. I wonder if you all have thought this would be such a great thing when you started a project and then get real deep into it and then have second thoughts? Lordy I sure hope this thing goes back together like it suppose to when this is all done. < Laughing at myself with a little self doubt after seeing the inside moving parts. Though the manual did say that one should make sure they know what they are doing. Little too late to back out now. Jimmy

Hooty · Sep 9, 2002

Re: Okay.... Update on the Rebuild of my Evinrude... & Question 9/10/02

Your manual probably points this out but the rods and rod caps each have a little *** that match up on the side but the caps will only fit one way anyway. And those rod caps aren't cut off, they're broken off. Real "cool" procedure. Keep us posted. c/6 Hooty

Dhadley · Sep 10, 2002

Re: Okay.... Update on the Rebuild of my Evinrude... & Question 9/10/02

Some discoloring (blue) would not be unusual given what you have told us about the motor. The motor was probably loaded to the low 5000 max RPM range which puts a strain on it. You can put the rods back anywhere but each has its own cap and like Hooty said, make sure to match the tits and they go "up" which makes the oil hole up also. You are doing a good job so far. And thanks for the updates and using the same thread. Continue on!

Jmorrell588 · Sep 10, 2002

Re: Okay.... Update on the Rebuild of my Evinrude... & Question 9/10/02

Mr. Dadley and Hooty, thank you for you response. I will follow that advise. Okay, when I took off the flywheel, I noticed that I had tighten the screws just a little too much (3 screw holes through the flywheel that you use to pull it off), what has happened is that the sensor coil ( If I am correct, is part of the stator/Armature) now has 3 dents on the top from the screws going all the way through the flywheel. Will I need to buy another one since it has these small punctures in it? Jimmy --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hooty · Sep 10, 2002

Re: Okay.... Update on the Rebuild of my Evinrude... & Question 9/10/02

Use your manual and test the windings to see if you did any damage. I guess it just depends how much pressure you put on it. Got my boat in the water today. It's the first time since my engine re-build and it never ran better. Real strong. Keeps posted. g'luck & c/6 Hooty

Okay.... Update on the Rebuild of my Evinrude... & Question 9/10/02

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