OMC Electric shift upper gearcase pinion gear removal..?

[Clete_t]

Okay, I got the pinion gear retaining nut off! I thought that was a miracle without the SST. I thought the whole shaft would then slide out with bearings, etc., because I need to replace the oil seals. I've posted some pics of the oil seal side, and you can see that the seals are popping out. Originally I thought water had intruded the upper and cracked the case, as I found a pool of oil and water under the boat this spring. After tearing the outdrive down I saw the oil-seal problem and hoped it was going to be any easy fix (as in I could do it myself). It took alot of effort just to get the pinon nut off, and now what? The manual talks of arbor press and such. Can I please get some adivce on how to take this thing apart so I can just replace the oil seals? Thanks!

 

[southkogs]

I've never rebuilt one. I don't have the tools for that job. The two that gave me fits I replaced by finding a comparable upper. I could typically find 'em in reasonable shape for about $350.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I highly suggest you find a manual. Even the dreaded Clymor manual will help pull the gear box apart.

 

[wrench 3]

You will need to press the gear off. Most auto repair shops have a press that will do the job. If not a machine shop should be able to do it for you.
That upper gear case had a design problem with the oil drain. It's above the lower bearing. If any water gets into the case it settles into the lower bearing. If it freezes it pushes the seal out. If you have any suspicions that it has water in it and your not going to disassemble it before freeze up, you have to take the drive off of the boat and lay it on it's side to get the water out.
BTW the nut holding the gear on is self locking and is not supposed to be reused.

 

[Clete_t]

Thanks for the info wrench 3! I think you confirmed my problem. At least the whole upper didn't crack cause I sure haven't come across any for $350... I'll start searching around town to see who can press this stuff on and off.

 

[wrench 3]

It's been a few years since I worked on one of those so it took a while to remember that I used to replace those seals without removing the shaft.
Find a small self tapping screw. Drill a small hole in the seal close to the outer diameter. Thread the screw into the hole. Not too deep. Grasp the screw and pull. A claw hammer works good if you have the right length screw.
If the seals are in there tight you may have to repeat the operation at several spots around the seal. Be careful not to score the shaft or housing.

I hope I got this to you in time.

 

[Clete_t]

Thanks again! You know I was kinda thinking the same thing, if I could get that first oil seal off, then the other one may still be OK, and I'd only have to replace the outer one. I'm gonna give it a try this weekend...

 

[wrench 3]

While your in there I'd replace both. No sense taking a chance.

 

[Clete_t]

Thanks for the tip on using a screw to get the seals out. Worked like a charm!

 

[wrench 3]

I'm glad that it all worked out. Now you just have to find out if the water got in some place else.

 

[Clete_t]

Well the lower and upper oil looks fine. My best guess is that I used a nylon washer on the oil dipstick "hole", as I've seen them used on other "oil holes", and the way I stored the boat, water runoff fell right on that "oil hole", and we had a cold, wet winter in Tahoe. So I think I got real lucky with having blown seals instead of a cracked case.... Thanks for the help, and check out my recent posts as I'm still putting it all back together.....???

 

[Clete_t]

BTW, both seals were blown out, I used the screw method to get both old seals out. I found a 1 1/2" PVC coupler @ Lowes for .66 cents that worked great as a seal installer!