OMC shift cable variations and identification marks

[docben]

I have needed to replace a few shift cables and in searching the internet found several available. Part numbers have changed over the years and available stock has dwindled down quite a bit. New OEM ones are harder to find so a gentleman on ebay decided to make aftermarket ones for about $600 USD. Just how good these are remains to be proven. For now I was able to get a new OEM P/N 982951 (old number 981394) and had a marking on it 982795 which the others I have seen on ebay also had. According to some parts dealers, this marking is not a part number. It might be a casting number. Not sure about this.
I also wonder just how many cables were made for all the different engine types and configurations? Anyone know?

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,....Are these Cobra, or Stringer drives,..??
What vintage,..??

 

[Scott Danforth]

If your looking for the lower shift cables for your stringer mechanical shift. There are 2. One for the stringer 400, another for the stringer 800

The other control cables are standard off the shelf bits

 

[docben]

If your looking for the lower shift cables for your stringer mechanical shift. There are 2. One for the stringer 400, another for the stringer 800

The other control cables are standard off the shelf bits

I meant to refer to stringer drives only. There are at least 2 for the 800. I looked it up and found at least 2 part numbers...982951 and 982563. Vintage 76-85.

The one I received (982951) has no grooves on the converter box end of the cable and is called a "Hydro-mechanical" on the Shift Cable Identification Installation Instruction sheet (1/94) that came with the cable.

The other one has 2 groves on the converter box end and called "Mechanical" and the Instruction sheet warns to not use the wrong cable.

Anyone who has installed these cables into the shift housing knows it is a bit tricky at first to wind the metal cable puck ends into the pulleys. The OMC Stern Drive Service Manual for 400-800 series, page 7-1-22,23 emphasizes the need to have the forward cable "dimension A" starting at 9-15/16 inches before placing the housing unit onto the rack.

And once the housing is mounted, "dimension A" must be 7-5/32 to 7-29/32 or start over! The SELOC manual does not mention this requirement.

If there is more to this, please post.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I meant to refer to stringer drives only. There are at least 2 for the 800. I looked it up and found at least 2 part numbers...982951 and 982563. Vintage 76-85.

do not confuse the generations of stringer drives.

its like comparing oranges to apples to bananas

electrical shift (pre 1978)
hydro shift (1978-1981)
mechanical shift (1982-1984)

your 1985 boat has a 1984 mechanical shift Stringer 800 outdrive with an ESA module

there is only 1 cable listed for your stringer 800 mechanical shift. that is 982563. 909881 is the installation tool you will need.

see TC Electronics (sterndrive.info) for videos, etc. http://sterndrive.info/shift_cable.html

http://www.sterndrive.info/omc_800_lower_unit.html. they also have the correct cable in stock.

get rid of the seloc thing and get a real OMC manual from Ken Cook https://outboardbooks.com/

 

[docben]

do not confuse the generations of stringer drives.

its like comparing oranges to apples to bananas

electrical shift (pre 1978)
hydro shift (1978-1981)
mechanical shift (1982-1984)

your 1985 boat has a 1984 mechanical shift Stringer 800 outdrive with an ESA module

there is only 1 cable listed for your stringer 800 mechanical shift. that is 982563. 909881 is the installation tool you will need.

see TC Electronics (sterndrive.info) for videos, etc. http://sterndrive.info/shift_cable.html

http://www.sterndrive.info/omc_800_lower_unit.html. they also have the correct cable in stock.

get rid of the seloc thing and get a real OMC manual from Ken Cook https://outboardbooks.com/

The apples, oranges, bananas analogy is bogus, and not confused about "generations".

You have no clue what is on my boat, from what I stated so far. I do because I see it, and it has a servo piston, hence a hydro, and NO ESA.

I know from your past posts you don't like OMC, but stating crap you don't know, is counter-productive.

You also seem to have a problem with SELOC manual, and refer me to another website. Thanks, but no thanks, as I have OEM manual as well.

Nice of you to reference Wayne at sterndrive.info. I have watched nearly all his YT videos and reviewed his website. Good info, for sure. I just wonder if you are trying to school me using Wayne's data and info. By far, have gotten more useful info from Wayne's site than in this forum. Beginning to wonder why spend any more time in these forums.

Yes, you are Grumpy. Lighten up a bit.

 

[southkogs]

The apples, oranges, bananas analogy is bogus, and not confused about "generations".

Not really - Hydro-Mechanical was a short run: and it exceptionally different than the electric and full-mechanical. You may not be confused about what you have, but from what you wrote - I am a little bit.

800 isn't so much a model, as OMC used that designation for the drives that went with the larger motors and the 400s were generally with the 4cylinders. Your model number is on a tag up on the engine block; the number will be something like 990243C - that will be the best identifier of what you have. And it should dictate which cable is best for your system.

I believe the second part number you listed is for a full mechanical system. If yours is hydro-mechanical, I think you need the first one.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Per this thread, you state its a 1983 drive in a 1985 boat.

1985 Beachcraft Cuddy 24 ft Model No 240C w 1983 OMC 800, 5.7L V8. Rehab or Part-Out?

Just bought an old boat, mostly for parts, but wonder if doing a Rehab is worth the time and money? There are still parts for the engine and sterndrive, but the shift cable is bad and the exhaust manifolds are toast. Tearing down the sterndrive on these old 800 series OMC is real fun (LOL). The...

forums.iboats.com

which would have a full mechanical shift drive.

Per the following you are describing a hydro mechanical drive which was 1978-1981 only

You have no clue what is on my boat, from what I stated so far. I do because I see it, and it has a servo piston, hence a hydro, and NO ESA.

so as 'Kogs stated. post your model number.

 

[docben]

Per this thread, you state its a 1983 drive in a 1985 boat.

1985 Beachcraft Cuddy 24 ft Model No 240C w 1983 OMC 800, 5.7L V8. Rehab or Part-Out?

Just bought an old boat, mostly for parts, but wonder if doing a Rehab is worth the time and money? There are still parts for the engine and sterndrive, but the shift cable is bad and the exhaust manifolds are toast. Tearing down the sterndrive on these old 800 series OMC is real fun (LOL). The...

forums.iboats.com

which would have a full mechanical shift drive.

Per the following you are describing a hydro mechanical drive which was 1978-1981 only

so as 'Kogs stated. post your model number.

The model number is 574STHRCTR. The lower drive that is on this boat is a non-anode and uses a hydro-mechanical shift cable with NO GROOVES. It could be that previous owners disconnected the ESA at the converter box end.

Per the "Shift Cable Identification" installation instructions dated 1/94, cables are identified by their grooves and puck sizes on the long or short cable. Nothing to do with SELOC. Safety was the issue for this instruction sheet.

 

[southkogs]

Model number is a full mechanical. If there's a hydro-mechanical drive on there, then someone's made a franken-motor (which isn't terribly uncommon - but weird going "backwards" in technology, mostly you see older engines with newer shift systems).

I'm not sure the specific differences between the two cables, but the part number for hydro-mechanical is 982951.

There's really only three types of shifting - so, if it's hydro-mechanical it should work.

 

[docben]

Model number is a full mechanical. If there's a hydro-mechanical drive on there, then someone's made a franken-motor (which isn't terribly uncommon - but weird going "backwards" in technology, mostly you see older engines with newer shift systems).

I'm not sure the specific differences between the two cables, but the part number for hydro-mechanical is 982951.

There's really only three types of shifting - so, if it's hydro-mechanical it should work.

You are correct! The lower drive was likely replaced at some point with the hydro! Bummer. A call to Wayne today...he says dump the lower drive and get the mechanical. Considering I would like to keep the boat and its V8, I now look for a lower unit with just mechanical. Wayne says as long as the motor can idle low (575ish) there should be no problems.
Do you agree?

 

[southkogs]

I know you can do a conversion; but I don't know much about the actual doing. HERE is where one was done on the forums.

@Redrig might be able to answer some questions for you. But it's been a couple months since I've seen him on the forums.

 

[Redrig]

I have an 85 model full mechanical shift . I also have a spare shift cable for it. I just went and looked at the cable , and it's part number 982563.

So if you're a hydro , you do not want that part number .

And yeah , converting from hydro to full mechanical would be a breeze. I converted from an electric shift and that's a little more involved.

But in your case , your putting back to what it was born with. A full mechanical shift.

 

[Redrig]

Here is the jist of it.

Electric to Mechanical conversion

Hello all , I wanted to post up what I have been working on for the last year and a half or so in hopes of matbe helping out someone down the road . My boat was born a 77 OMC with an electric shift drive . It has worked OK for me over the years but I have broken a couple of forward shift...

forums.iboats.com

 

[docben]

I have an 85 model full mechanical shift . I also have a spare shift cable for it. I just went and looked at the cable , and it's part number 982563.

So if you're a hydro , you do not want that part number .

And yeah , converting from hydro to full mechanical would be a breeze. I converted from an electric shift and that's a little more involved.

But in your case , your putting back to what it was born with. A full mechanical shift.

Correct part number for mechanical (anode) type. Was that number on the rubber casing?

I found an 83 whole lower mechanical unit (anode) with shift cable and housing for $425 which solved my problem. So now I get the boat back to full mechanical and hope shifting is better. But do I install the electrical switch back onto the shift converter as called for in the parts diagram?? Does yours have an electrical switch mounted on the converter box?

And I now have a spare hydro lower unit for my other boat (185 HP) that has never had a shifting problem. I spent some time taking apart the servo piston, oil pump, forward gear, clutch dog and all the parts are like new, except the clutch dog has more rounding on the forward side, as one might expect. I wonder why there were so many problems with the hydro series that they had to recall them? I was trying to find the original recall bulletin but that's decades old, so move on.

Thanks to those who helped.
That's what this forum is about.

 

[docben]

I know you can do a conversion; but I don't know much about the actual doing. HERE is where one was done on the forums.

@Redrig might be able to answer some questions for you. But it's been a couple months since I've seen him on the forums.

I did look back at those old posts and there was mention of an electric component on the converter box. Does that switch help control the RPMs of the engine so as to reduce/eliminate grinding down the clutch dog?

 

[Scott Danforth]

yes, the ESA module simply has two switches that ground out the ignition as you shift to make the motor stumble to get it into gear.

 

[Redrig]

Depending on what the previous owner removed when he switched from mechanical to hydro . He may have removed the wiring plugs needed .

If they did , it's not a big deal . My 77 boat of course had none of that wiring . But yes , I would certainly add the ESA back into yours . I think it's 3 wires. IIRC

Switched full hot
Ground
Tap into negative side of coil .


I had to make my own bracket to hold the converter . Yours should have studs on the intermediate to hold the converter.

The ESA will stumble the engine when shifting and make shifting much smoother which in turn saves your expensive shift cable in the long run .

 

[docben]

Depending on what the previous owner removed when he switched from mechanical to hydro . He may have removed the wiring plugs needed .

If they did , it's not a big deal . My 77 boat of course had none of that wiring . But yes , I would certainly add the ESA back into yours . I think it's 3 wires. IIRC

Switched full hot
Ground
Tap into negative side of coil .


I had to make my own bracket to hold the converter . Yours should have studs on the intermediate to hold the converter.

The ESA will stumble the engine when shifting and make shifting much smoother which in turn saves your expensive shift cable in the long run .

I got lucky...whomever made the change to hydro, left the switches, bracket and holder just dangling! They likely switched to hydro because there were so many more out there and likely cheaper.

So I will follow the wires and be sure they are solid.

I discovered today, the old after market Sierra tilt motor is frozen up and unlike older tilt motors I have seen, can't be disassembled, so need a new one. The dollars are adding up fast!

Also looks like I will be doing a rehab of the stringers and surrounding fiberglass so will look for that Forum if it exists.

Thanks again MCPO.

 

[Scott Danforth]

in other thread, I posted the link to the DIY sticky information in the restoration forum. everything you need is in that restoration sticky (3rd down) in links 14, 15, 17, 18, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b for fiberglass work.