omc shift interrupter switch

[marunr]

Hi,<br />I have a 1988 2.3 liter omc cobra and I've had the usual problems with the switches, cables, and gear sets. Now however, I'm having a problem with the engine cutting out while under power, generally after it runs for a while. If I remove the switch with the roller (the one that stops the motor for shifting and tends to get stuck while going to neutral)from it's bracket the boat runs fine. The other switch is much more expensive (I think it is the overide switch) so before I change it do you think that could be it or would the electronic shift box be the more likely culprit? I hate to switch them both out as it would be close to $200

 

[rattana]

Re: omc shift interrupter switch

Before you spend any money did you try following the adjustment that is in the engine FAQ? It has a good procedure for setup of the switch.

 

[marunr]

Re: omc shift interrupter switch

Thank you, but that doesn't apply to the omc. It has a single cable and two switches.

 

[rattana]

Re: omc shift interrupter switch

Sorry I didn't read OMC

 

[stressfree]

Re: omc shift interrupter switch

put it in gear then unplug the switches,its a rubber boot.that will tell you if its the switches.

 

[TwoBallScrewBall]

Re: omc shift interrupter switch

The override switch is just a backup in case the linkage hangs up. Try to look at your engine when it dies on you, and see if the switch with the roller is tripped. When in Neutral, or fully in either gear, it should rest in the middle of the "V". The only time it should move is when there is tension on the lower shift cable, like coming out of gear in the water. <br /><br />If the lower cable is new it should shift very easily by hand if you disconnect the cable from the bracket. Do this carefully if in the water, only at idle so you don't go flying, and preferrably have a friend there. If it's still hard to shift (and sounds like it might be the problem), you might have the same problem I did, which was a seized (or just sticky) shift shaft on the outdrive. There is a small plate that the shaft goes through into the lower unit. In this plate is a bronze bushing and rubber seal. This busing and/or seal get corrodedd, and cause the shaft to become very hard to move. Mine was tough in the fall, and come spring when I got my new motor in it wouldn't move at all. Good news is that the part is only about 20-30 bucks even at a dealer, and it's a relatively easy fix but does require that the drive comes off.

 

[marunr]

Re: omc shift interrupter switch

Thanks for the help. I'll try unplugging the switches. Steve, the roller should rest in the middle of the v even when in gear? Mine rides on top of the cam and goes in the middle when in neutral. Could replacing the spring help? The cable shifts easily when it's disconnected.

 

[TwoBallScrewBall]

Re: omc shift interrupter switch

Yes, it should always be in the "V" even when in gear, it should only momentarily pop up onto the sides of the "V" while shifting. If you can easily shift the outdrive (not the throttle handle) when the cable is disconnected then you likely just need an adjustment.

 

[marunr]

Re: omc shift interrupter switch

Just an update. Thanks for the info Steve. You were right on about the cable retainer binding up the cable. I pulled the outdrive today and worked on the cable retainer, and adjusted the cable settings per the info I saw on http://www.funkopolis.com:8080/~stuart/cobra/ <br />Mine was staked crooked as was Stuart's. Turns out there was a lot more drag on the cable than I first thought. Thanks again!