Here is an interesting read. I thought I'd throw it up here in case anyone was interested:
http://www.hartoftmarinesurvey.com/guide.html
http://www.hartoftmarinesurvey.com/guide.html
Home Cookin' you must have really read this quickly... from the 4th paragraph (ie the very beginining of the article) "Osmotic fiberglass blistering is a process which depends on the temperature of, and exposure time to, the water. Given the above mentioned factors, it is not surprising that fiberglass blisters appear on a large number of vessels which are kept afloat for long periods of time in relatively warm water."interesting. although I read it over quickly, it sounds like blistering, any of the three types, occurs rather typically over a long time; that water has to be present (no mention of temperature); that, like music by Wagner, it's not as bad as it sounds. I suppose it's the equivalent of inevitable wood rot in a wooden hull boat of yesterday.
A Problem With a Solution Despite the numerous studies, research reports and magazine articles on the subject, there is not much concordance on the cause and effect of blistering. Most of the literature seems directed at repair solutions rather than how to prevent blisters from occurring in the first place.
The simple fact is that hull blistering is caused by the use of inferior materials and shoddy layup. As Lee Dana, former head of engineering at Bertram Yachts told the audience at the annual conference of the National Association of Marine Surveyors in 1985, hulls built with high quality resins don't blister. If builders want to build hulls that don't blister, all they have to do is "spend another ten dollars per gallon for resin," he said
This fact is well known, but rarely considered by surveyors or the boating public.
The most important factor found in this type of test related to the use of fumed silica. Silica is used to thicken resin, somewhat like cornstarch thickens sauces. Fumed silica is added to most production laminating resins so that it won't drain out of glass reinforcements when the boat is being built in the mold.
The fumed silica particle is shaped like a flat potato chip, only much smaller. It has irregular edges and a variable aspect ratio. It's a lot like mica in that it has very low shear strength parallel with its surface. It's a very weak substance to begin with, it tends to flake -- and, as it turns out, it was implicated in many blistering problems we found.
Depending on the training received by the laminator or the techniques used by the builder in producing the first couple of laminated layers behind the gelcoat, fumed silica can be concentrated at different depths in the laminate thickness. This can happen when a laminate layer is rolled out in production. As resin flows up through the reinforcement from a pre-wet surface in the mold, the glass fibers in that layer tend to filter the fumed silica out of the resin. This happens most commonly when the builder is using a thick layer of mat reinforcement (over 1-oz. per square ft. in weight). The result is a fine layer of silica platelets spread over the surface of the reinforcement layer. This usually occurs right up against the backside of the gelcoat or between the first and second plies of mat, and can cause moderate to severe interply adhesion problems. In our testing we found that 31% of all blistering problems were caused by the concentration of silica in either of the first two laminated layers.
I was told, by "experts" to avoid any boats made in the early to late 80's. Not sure if this is correct, but prior to this time the only blisters people heard about were from boats that were in the water for several years. I think in the early 90's builders were advertising barrier coats to prevent blisters and Cobalt made it point to advertise that they were the only builder who actually gave a warranty for blistering (I think this is still the case).that's interesting about the change in process in 1984. Not that every manufacturer builds boats the same, but it would be interesting to know if there are particularly bad years for hulls, such as the first year a new regulation was in effect and before the builders knew the new process's bugs.
The title of this thread sounds like something you would need a giant shot of penicillin to cure.
Problem With a Solution Despite the numerous studies, research reports and magazine articles on the subject, there is not much concordance on the cause and effect of blistering. Most of the literature seems directed at repair solutions rather than how to prevent blisters from occurring in the first place.
The simple fact is that hull blistering is caused by the use of inferior materials and shoddy layup. As Lee Dana, former head of engineering at Bertram Yachts told the audience at the annual conference of the National Association of Marine Surveyors in 1985, hulls built with high quality resins don't blister. If builders want to build hulls that don't blister, all they have to do is "spend another ten dollars per gallon for resin," he said
The study referred to was actually done by the University of Rhode Island paid for by the US Coast Guard Office of Boating Safety. I worked in the Office of Boating Safety at the time although I was not the project officer on this particular project.
A copy of the complete study can be purchased from the Defense Technical Information Center (I tried to post the link but I don't have enough posts according to the error message I got. But if I get an -email or pm I cna give it to you)
The cause is known. What the real question is, What is the cure? Numerous yards, repairers and marine centers have become supposed experts on curing this problem. FRP is a semipermeable membrane, so you simply have to find some way to prevent it from acting as a semipermeable membrane.
The generally accepted method is:
Take the boat out and let the laminate dry. (this can take a long time)
Completely strip off the gel coat and as many layers of glass as necessary
(this depends on the extent of and depth of the blistering because contrary to their popular name "gelcoat blisters" they do not occur in the gelcoat, they occur in the laminate and can be just the top layers, or go clear through the laminate. Some are a total loss.)
Replace the laminate
Replace gelcoat or not (some do some don't)
Apply Barrier Coat (typically some sort of expoxy barrier coat but this varies depending on who's doing the repair.)