Outboard Leg Length

[NZ-Kevin]

Not sure if this is the right place to post this, but it's about a Johnson engine. My 1971 Johnson 60hp expired last weekend. I don't know the full story as I haven't stripped it down yet, but when there's a big bang and you lose drive it's going to be bad. When I got towed back to the boat ramp and saw the engine there was a big hole in the side of the gearbox through which I could see smashed gears -pretty terminal.

I was delighted to find a 1970 Johnson 60hp at a reasonable price due to it being a non-runner, the amplifyer was shot. That was one thing that was still good on my old engine so I bought it sharpish. Spent today swapping the engines over, and putting the missing pieces on the new engine off the old one. it was only after finishing everything and putting the new engine vertical that I realised I'd swapped a standard length engine for a long one -because the prop touched the ground until I lowered the front of the trailer. I think it's about 2" longer than the original. Will this have an effect on the boat? -for better or worse?

I may be getting ahead of myself, as I haven't tested the new engine yet so I don't know if it will actually run. But if the previous owner was honest and the dead amplifyer was the only problem then it should.

Any thoughts appreciated.

Regards
Kevin

 

[etracer68]

Re: Outboard Leg Length

The cavitation plate should be even (level) to 1 inch above the bottom of the boat. If its 1 inch below, you might be able to put a 1 inch aluminum spacer under the mount.

 

[dew2]

Re: Outboard Leg Length

the difference in legnth should be 5 inches,it will work, it will create more drag and slow top speed down some,watch your shallow running.try it,those lowers are getting harder to get and the way the were set up buying used without running and testing is taking a chance.good luck.
if its something you dont like watch ebey for a empty case,you now have the parts from two to makie one SS if the drive shaft wasnt damaged.