Outboard motor test tank

[Greg O.]

I have been using 55 gallon oil drums to test run my motors. This is fine for idle speeds, but does not work for high speed running as cavitation occurs not to mention all the water splashes out. Most of my motors are 15 hp or less. Does anyone have any ideas on what makes a good test tank. I have seen test tanks, but do not know where to get one. Has anyone built anything or used something other then a oil drum ? I would be interested to see your ideas if you have pictures. Thanks.

 

[Sea Rider]

Why do you need a test tank for portables ? Muffs and correct water pressure is all you need...Test tanks are messy, oily, need to dispose oily water properly just to name some disadvantages with respect to muffs.

Happy Boating

 

[roscoe]

Test tanks are messy, oily, need to dispose oily water properly just to name some disadvantages with respect to muffs.

Happy Boating

Ummmm, yeah, because when running on muffs, you are just dumping the oil down the driveway or onto the ground.


I have found that a 100 gallon galvanized cattle tank works well.
Even better if you make a cover for it.

 

[Greg O.]

The reason for a test tank is to run the motor under load. That is not possible with muffs. Besides I have not seen muffs that will work on 5 to 10 hp size motors.
I use muffs on my stern drive so I know what they are. I want to be able to run these small motors at speeds faster then an idle.

 

[Sea Rider]

All muffs loses water through ear sides doesn't matter which brand they are, you can remedy this issue by doing this simple muff modification,






To test an engine under "load" must be attached to the boat while pushing it. Testing on a tank while geared will not provide needed load, doesn't matter if at idle or wot. An engine can perform nicely on muffs, barrel at any throttle range. What works well on muffs, barrrel will not always work best once on water...

To test engine on barrel you need a special test prop, usually without blades. If testing with current prop at throtle passing idle, worst at wot, will end emptying oily barrel water onto floor..bad musique...

Happy Boating

 

[midcarolina]

I have a buddy that piddles around restoring outboards......... He took an old oval home heating oil tank, on one end he cut a opening large enough for leg of motor to slip through. then bolted a board on the top side end of tank to mount motor to. it works very well and has enough capacity for prolonged runs and has minimal splash out.

 

[Greg O.]

I have to agree Sea Rider. There is no substitute for the motor actually being on the boat. That is not always possible, especially in January in Michigan. I was looking for a better alternative to a 55 gallon barrel. The heating oil tank might be better, once all the fuel oil is cleaned out of it.

 

[tomhath]

Or you could do like this guy:

 

[Sea Rider]

Moons back added a lower water faucet to this plastic barrel, conveniently modified for testing and flushing portable engines all year round. Down issue, spills out to much water if too much throttle is applied + cleaning oil mess leftovers inside tank once water is completely drained through lower faucet.



Happy Boating

 

[Greg O.]

The guy in Minnisota that is running the motor on the ice, has a lot of motor demonstration videos on youtube. I enjoy watching them in the winter time when I can't run them on my boat. He has around 250 motors. Lucky guy.

 

[jakedaawg]

I use a feeding tank from Farm and fleet. I built a cover for it. I used old firehose to go around the mid-section. For test props I just use old props that I have cut off about half of each blade.