Painting 150 johnnie

fishdady

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jun 27, 2012
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78
Bought a 1980, Johnson 150. engine runs great, but, after 34 years, cosmetically, looks bad. I want to paint it, but, researching it some say use etching primer, some say zinc chromate. Anyone have any thoughts. Thanks in advance, Fishdady (Chuck)
 

Mac3

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Jun 18, 2008
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Re: Painting 150 johnnie

I did the same thing last year to the lower unit. Used a single pack spray body primer off the shelf from auto shop, and got them to match Johnson white in a single pack spray top coat. I have little experience of spray painting and was worried about single pack not hanging on but after about 9 months of 20 knots plus it still gleams, I am very happy. Only wet n dry surface prep too, didn't bother removing all the old paint.
cheers
David
 

zebbyz

Recruit
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Aug 25, 2012
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Re: Painting 150 johnnie

I did the same thing last year to the lower unit. Used a single pack spray body primer off the shelf from auto shop, and got them to match Johnson white in a single pack spray top coat. I have little experience of spray painting and was worried about single pack not hanging on but after about 9 months of 20 knots plus it still gleams, I am very happy. Only wet n dry surface prep too, didn't bother removing all the old paint.
cheers
David

How did you go for taking it apart and any rusty bolts ?
 

fishdady

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 27, 2012
Messages
78
Re: Painting 150 johnnie

I did the same thing last year to the lower unit. Used a single pack spray body primer off the shelf from auto shop, and got them to match Johnson white in a single pack spray top coat. I have little experience of spray painting and was worried about single pack not hanging on but after about 9 months of 20 knots plus it still gleams, I am very happy. Only wet n dry surface prep too, didn't bother removing all the old paint.
cheers
David

Thanks for the reply, but, I did the same to a 140 and I had trouble keeping paint on the L/U. I have to put a base gasket and impeller in the 150, since I have it that far apart, I wanted to do it right. I'm just trying to find the right primer so top coat sticks and doesn't peel off like the 140 did. Thanks again.
 

Fleetwin

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Nov 23, 2011
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1,141
Re: Painting 150 johnnie

As long as the parts have paint on them you can use any enamel primer and top coat.

Any areas that are down to bare metal (aluminum) must be prepped difffrently.

1. Lightly sand.
2. Wash with 50/50 solution of white vinegar and water.
3. Prime with zinc chromate primer.
4. Apply top coat.
 

James R

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Feb 1, 2007
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2,679
Re: Painting 150 johnnie

I have done a lot of motors and the paint seems to stand up well. Exposed to solvents or gasoline the paint will come off. Typical for a spray paint. Preparation is key. Clean down and remove the grease with Super Clean. Rinse thoroughly with water and dry. If there is pitting from salt water scrape and apply a little Muriatic acid. Clean the pitting thoroughly and mix a little epoxy putty stick. Fill the pitting. If the filler is high or rough it can be cut down using a metal file and then sand flush. Any imperfections will show through the paint so make a good job of filling. A good sanding with 220 Grit wet and dry followed by a thorough wipe down with alcohol will prepare for two or three coats of Rustoleum Self Etching primer. When dry 800 to 1200 grit wet and dry light sanding will produce a nice surface to top coat. Others may say 500 grit.Your choice. I use manufacturers spray cans of the correct color for that motor. No need to take it apart. Remove the engine cover and clean the inside seal groove and use 2inch masking tape inside the groove facing out. Press sheets of news paper onto the tape all around and seal it to prevent paint getting onto the power head. Tape over things like labels. Spray outdoors with no wind and warm air. Heat the spray cans in the sun or in front of an electric fire. This helps the paint to flow. They say shake the rattle cans for two minutes. Shake for three or four. Lay down two very light coats to seal the primer or old paint and then, when dry, lay down a heavier coat. careful to avoid runs. Apply as many coats as needed to get a good cover. Automotive Clear coat will help protect the color but be careful to spray two light seal coats other wise the paint may bubble.
 

gm280

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Jun 26, 2011
Messages
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Re: Painting 150 johnnie

I repainted my OB recently and I torn the entire engine apart to make sure all the bearings and internal parts were good knowing I was going to rebuilt it to last a very long time. And I was very glad I did too. I found the lower power head crank bearing totally trashed and the bearing holder broken too. And I had no idea those parts were that bad. I bought the OB used and didn't know the condition of anything with the engine. The lower foot assembly was cracked and every part inside was totally rusted. The gears cleaned up good but all the bearing and seals were trashed as well. SO once everything was taken down to bare metal (via hand, power and sandblaster sanding) I started with Zinc Chromate primer first. I followed that with PPG K36 high build catalyzed primer. Then more sanding and then PPG base coat paint and PPG top coats of catalyzed clear. Those are the same paints used on autos and are impervious to oils, gas, and a lot of other chemicals. Tough as nails too... The color and shine is amazing as well.
 

fishdady

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Re: Painting 150 johnnie

Wow, thanks guys, you've answered all my questions. I really want to do it right, this time. I realize I'm in for a lot of work, but, I really want this old girl to look good. She seems to run pretty good and checks out fine. gm280, I hope to not find any surprises like you did. Thanks again guys, really appreciate it.
 

oldboat1

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Re: Painting 150 johnnie

interesting. I also have done many motors, some with automotive primer and spray (as in spray cans), and some with single stage automotive paint, matched to color (PPG code that you have for future use). It's all in the prep work, incl. filling and multiple sandings. I've used the zinc chromate primer, but think it probably is not needed for typical fresh water use (my opinion). What you get into is pretty much up to you, and what you are after. If new to restoration and detailing, I think I would suggest getting as close a match as you can in automotive spray cans, and using a sandable automotive primer. AOMCI has member input on colors that have been used to match original colors, and you might check that out. Whites/off whites are difficult. If you get a color you are satisfied with, just get after it. I recommend lacquer as it is a little easier to work with (dries almost on contact, and can quickly be recoated). Whatever you choose, make sure you are outside or in a fully ventilated area, and wear a mask. By the way, I've had good success with computerized color matches at an auto detailer (have a dead-on match for Evinrude poly-chromatic blue, which is really difficult). Oh, and before beginning, decide if you want to put on new decals, and see if you can obtain them (search on Ebay can be useful for vinyl die cut decals. You can also get water-applied decals for a lot of models at a couple of sources (American Outboard, for example, on Maryland's Eastern Shore.))
 

fishdady

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Re: Painting 150 johnnie

Thanks, oldboat1. Once again, I know this is a job and a halve. Pretty much sand, sand, sand, and then sand some more. My problem was zinc chromate, or etching. It was like asking "what oil" or "remove VRO or not".
 

oldboat1

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Re: Painting 150 johnnie

fun to do, though. Do the lower unit first, until you get the hang of it. Mistakes like runs or skips are not an issue -- just sand it off a little and repaint. Let's see, sanding sponges are good as they conform to shapes. Experiment with the sanding, priming and painting, and start with a clean, oil free surface. "Fish eyes" in the paint indicate contamination on the surface you are painting. You don't always have to prime unless you are down to bare metal, but the sandable primer gives a smooth surface for finishing. It really is very easy. Use 3M blue painters tape for masking off.
 

HighTrim

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Re: Painting 150 johnnie

Zinc chromate is old school. It is also dangerous. Google it for an MSDS sheet. Stick with the self etching primer. If you go down to bare metal, it must be used, or your paint will fall off. As stated, preparation is key. I only like going down to bare metal, it actually saves hours of sanding and trying to feather in paint. Strip it bare, start from scratch, and do it right the first time. Just my 2 cents.

I like soda blasting for stripping paint and cleaning parts. This is what you end up with before spraying the self etching primer.



 

oldboat1

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Re: Painting 150 johnnie

all nicely done -- and somebody else with outboard parts laid out in the house while the wife is away.

I do a good amount of sanding before and after priming, including using a finishing sander or three. I also use body putty for nicks and scratches. I have pretty good luck feathering using body putty (conservatively) and high build primer -- and would be less likely to get it down to bare metal than HighTrim. Soda blasting is too sophisticated for me, but a guy could probably take it in to a shop to have that done. (HighTrim -- what equipment does that require?)

It's probably worth noting that the mechanical stuff gets done first to avoid grease on surfaces (or taking apart a perfectly painted lower unit).
 

HighTrim

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Re: Painting 150 johnnie

I have a sand blasting cabinet, which through a kit can be transformed into a soda blasting cabinet. For most items though, using glass is fine. I highly recommend soda though on the powerheads. Too easy to miss some debris in the powerhead. Soda is water soluable, so after washing there is no medium left to destroy the cylinders. Glass is a different animal.

For the guys that don't have a cabinet, look for a local graffiti removal company in your area. They often use soda blasting guns. For a few bucks, they sometimes will blast your parts for you on the side.
 

oldboat1

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Re: Painting 150 johnnie

thanks for the addit. info. I was thinking in terms of one of the auto body shops here for assistance -- not much call for graffiti removal here in Penn Yan. Here we call it art (or maybe billboard advertising). I have a neighbor who is really into customizing tools and equipment, and may have some experience with soda blasting -- which does sound preferable to other options. I'm going to check in with him (we sort of share workshops). He may already have something. I periodically need to work on old Victorian hardware in the civil war era house we bought up here, and a soda blasting unit could be useful there too. Anyway, that is probably the excuse I would use.
 

fishdady

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Re: Painting 150 johnnie

Keep talking, guys, I'm listening and learning. I have an old (66) 6 hp rude in the basement that is trash I think I'll practice on first and yes it is nice to see someone with engine parts all over the basement besides me.
 

oldboat1

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Re: Painting 150 johnnie

yup. Be super careful when you get into painting. The auto paint that you mix with thinner and hardener (either single or two stage) is particularly dangerous, and you should be wearing a charcoal mask even when opening and mixing in the hardener. That being said, I like the single stage because you get a "wet look" finish without clear coating (which I find a little tricky anyway). I have the best results with a gravity fed sprayer -- have to experiment for the right pressure, or maybe get the recommendation of the paint supplier. For a first project, it's better to fool around getting the color match you want in a spray can, and going with that. Again, I like lacquer but that's just me.
 

HighTrim

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Re: Painting 150 johnnie

I would be embarrassed to show you pictures of my basement. :)

I don't live in a large house, and the whole finished basement is rammed with over 100 outboards and tens of thousands of dollars worth of parts stacked to the ceiling in boxes. Yes, my name is Chris and Im an addict.
 

oldboat1

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Re: Painting 150 johnnie

I'm Curt, and I'm also an addict. Pass the coffee.....

I had too many motors. So I sold or gave them away. We moved, and I built a bigger garage. Life is good.
 

fishdady

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Jun 27, 2012
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Re: Painting 150 johnnie

I'm Chuck, I'm just retired last year, and, I've got about thirty (enough now the wife doesn't notice another one) Just getting started, but, I'm addicted! Life is good!
 
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