erikgreen
Captain
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2007
- Messages
- 3,105
Greetings, all;
I've been reading through the posts on this board to give myself an education in boat restoration... I must say there's some great information here.
I recently purchased my first boat (after SCUBA diving for a couple years, and being around boats, I was bitten by the bug) and I have a question about working on it.
First, here's some pictures: http://www.greendragon.org/boat/
My first question (I'm sure I'll have more) is how can I paint the hull, or work on all of it, on the trailer? Obviously I can't lift the boat off without a lift (it's about 5000 lbs) and it's a roller trailer so I can't easily jack it up on boat stands and roll the trailer out. I can paint it on the trailer with some work, but I'll obviously miss spots where the rollers sit.
The reason I need to get to the whole hull is to refinish it or at least repaint. The previous owner(s) had painted over the original gel coat with red paint of some type that blistered below the waterline. There's dock rub on the starboard aft corner, and some dings and scratches elsewhere. Additionally, the trailer needs a lot of repair, which I'd like to do some of before I float the boat in the spring.
I'm probably going to ask a lot of questions here going forward, but for now here's the specs on the boat and my plans:
It's a 22 foot 1973 Sea Ray SRV220 with a Mercruiser 888 and a pre-alpha outdrive. The 888 is a 302 ford, looks stock, with a 2 barrel carb and the old points-style ignition. It's on a rather beat up trailer that I had to rig temporary lights on to haul the boat home.
Stuff I'm going to work on, more or less in order:
1) Engine and drive test - it's supposed to run, but I want to know how well
2) Fix trailer - install brakes, fix rollers, new hitch, rewire
3) Fix rot - there's one soft spot in the deck at the motor, and I expect a good chunk of the deck to need to come out. At some point someone replaced the fuel tank, so it may or may not be in good shape below.
4) Redo interior. The 70s interior is a bit dated, and the carpet is torn. Also, I want a few less comforts and a bit more useable space, so the seats and settee/table are coming out, and going in are a bench seat and tank rack. I also may redo part of the console. The existing fridge and icebox are coming out, as are the water tank and broken sink. For the length of trips I do, a cooler will do fine.
5) Electrical rewire... several owners have done their own wiring to "fix" things and it shows. There's solid wire in places, splices, electrical tape, and general nastiness. Best to start over.
6) Bow hatch... looks like it was rebuilt out of plywood and seals with foam tape against aluminum angle... not the best if I take water over the bow (the boat's for Lake Superior).
There's even a sink drain that is connected to a hull fitting with a section of garden hose.
The good:
The engine/sterndrive is supposed to work
The trim tabs and hydraulics work
The steering gear works
The hull is apparently solid... as in, no wood core. As far as I can tell the outer hull is completely fiberglass.
The fabric top's in decent shape
It's mine
The price: $1350 with the trailer.
Erik
I've been reading through the posts on this board to give myself an education in boat restoration... I must say there's some great information here.
I recently purchased my first boat (after SCUBA diving for a couple years, and being around boats, I was bitten by the bug) and I have a question about working on it.
First, here's some pictures: http://www.greendragon.org/boat/
My first question (I'm sure I'll have more) is how can I paint the hull, or work on all of it, on the trailer? Obviously I can't lift the boat off without a lift (it's about 5000 lbs) and it's a roller trailer so I can't easily jack it up on boat stands and roll the trailer out. I can paint it on the trailer with some work, but I'll obviously miss spots where the rollers sit.
The reason I need to get to the whole hull is to refinish it or at least repaint. The previous owner(s) had painted over the original gel coat with red paint of some type that blistered below the waterline. There's dock rub on the starboard aft corner, and some dings and scratches elsewhere. Additionally, the trailer needs a lot of repair, which I'd like to do some of before I float the boat in the spring.
I'm probably going to ask a lot of questions here going forward, but for now here's the specs on the boat and my plans:
It's a 22 foot 1973 Sea Ray SRV220 with a Mercruiser 888 and a pre-alpha outdrive. The 888 is a 302 ford, looks stock, with a 2 barrel carb and the old points-style ignition. It's on a rather beat up trailer that I had to rig temporary lights on to haul the boat home.
Stuff I'm going to work on, more or less in order:
1) Engine and drive test - it's supposed to run, but I want to know how well
2) Fix trailer - install brakes, fix rollers, new hitch, rewire
3) Fix rot - there's one soft spot in the deck at the motor, and I expect a good chunk of the deck to need to come out. At some point someone replaced the fuel tank, so it may or may not be in good shape below.
4) Redo interior. The 70s interior is a bit dated, and the carpet is torn. Also, I want a few less comforts and a bit more useable space, so the seats and settee/table are coming out, and going in are a bench seat and tank rack. I also may redo part of the console. The existing fridge and icebox are coming out, as are the water tank and broken sink. For the length of trips I do, a cooler will do fine.
5) Electrical rewire... several owners have done their own wiring to "fix" things and it shows. There's solid wire in places, splices, electrical tape, and general nastiness. Best to start over.
6) Bow hatch... looks like it was rebuilt out of plywood and seals with foam tape against aluminum angle... not the best if I take water over the bow (the boat's for Lake Superior).
There's even a sink drain that is connected to a hull fitting with a section of garden hose.
The good:
The engine/sterndrive is supposed to work
The trim tabs and hydraulics work
The steering gear works
The hull is apparently solid... as in, no wood core. As far as I can tell the outer hull is completely fiberglass.
The fabric top's in decent shape
It's mine
The price: $1350 with the trailer.
Erik
