Painting over new poly laminate - leave tacky or let cure?

[skunkedskippy]

Just finished glassing in new stringers, and will probably add an extra layer of 1708 inside the entire bilge. I plan to paint the bilge, probably with Rustoleum enamel. That said, should I leave the last laminate tacky, or should I let it cure? And what type of prep should I do with either method? For example, If I leave it tacky, I assume sanding would be futile. Using poly laminating resin, if it matters.

I plan on testing both methods with some scraps, but I'd love to hear from the experts.

 

[matt167]

I think you'll have to wax the last layer so it does cure. Rustoleum won't work well on a soft sticky substrate

 

[Woodonglass]

Do NOT paint over tacky resin. Tape some plastic over the bilge after the last coat of resin. It'll cure to a non tacky surface within 24-36 hours. Then light sanding with 180 grit wipe down with acetone and then paint

 

[Scott Danforth]

or paint it with gel coat over the tacky resin

 

[AShipShow]

I plan to do what Scott said... a layer of waxed gelcoat than bilge paint over the gelcoat in the bilge to prevent staining from oil and grease

 

[skunkedskippy]

Ok, glad I asked. Guess I won't waste my time testing this. If I had extra gel coat laying around I'd take Scott's advice. Could I just add a layer of waxed poly instead?

 

[oldrem]

Ok, glad I asked. Guess I won't waste my time testing this. If I had extra gel coat laying around I'd take Scott's advice. Could I just add a layer of waxed poly instead?

That should do it.

 

[skunkedskippy]

Thanks again all. Added a coat of waxed poly yesterday.

How would I prep it now, for painting? Seems like I would want to remove the wax. But would it go back to being tacky if I did so?

Edit: reread WOG's comment. Sounds like once laminating resin is surface cured, it won't go back to being tacky. I'll give it go!!