Painting over old paint on 14' alumicraft jon boat?

[mp_2008]

I've been looking over various threads but would like to get advice on my specific situation. I have a very nice 14' jon boat that has what I believe to be the original paint on it with a couple small spray paint patches where the original paint wore down. The paint is in great shape with no peeling or bare spots but I just want to personalize it and paint it the color I want. From reading various threads I see it would be just fine painting over the old paint since it is in great shape and that there would be no need for a primer. However I don't know what kind of paint the original paint is so idk what kind of paint to use that would adhear to the current paint job. So my questions are, would anyone have any idea what kind of paint the original paint job is and what kind of paint I should use for my new paint job? Also, should I use a bottom paint for below the waterline and a topside paint for above it? Any advice regarding painting over old paint on an aluminum boat will be appreciated!

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... It really don't matter what the original paint was, so long as it's still solid,.....

Just scuff it up, 'n repaint it,.....

It's tough to go wrong with Rustoleum enamel,....

 

[gm280]

If the original paint is in great shape and no issues with it, then yes it can work as your primer or base coat to work from. But I would also do a wet sanding of that paint to a 600 grit finish in preparation for the top coat or color coat of paint. And I would certainly use a good quality catalyzed paint for that top or color coat as well. Then if you want any contrasting colors or paint strips, do that next. And if you're really want it to pop, apply a clear top coat. It is really up to what you really want to do with it.

 

[mp_2008]

Thanks for the advice guys, I was actually looking at the rustoleum enamel last year before I decided to hold off until this year. Might buy a higher quality paint though, want it to last. If I rolled on my top should I thin it out at all and add a hardener? As for clear, should i roll it on as well? I've used rustoleum clear coat in a spray can before and am not a fan, always chipped and peeled on me after not to long.

 

[zool]

Follow the tech sheet for whatever paint you choose, they should have specifics regarding thinning for rolling, spraying, ect, as well as recommended mil thickness......the guys here seem to like the rusto with an enamel hardener, but im more of a catalyzed system guy like gm stated......also, skip the clear coat, you don't need it, and wont want it in the end...

 

[NicoPags]

I agree with zool's clear coat statement. Easily solved with a gloss paint. Im a rusto guy (for now). Ive both sprayed and rolled without hardners however I will admit that its noticably lesser quality. This year Im doing a repaint using EasyPoxy. Very similar to the rusto but with a silocone additive to make it shine longer and better UV protection and costy. Bottom paints I believe are mostly for docked boats. please correct if im wrong thats just what I heard in the past. If you trailer it you dont really have to do a botton and top separate.

 

[mp_2008]

Well I live on a lake and my boat will be in the water all summer except when I go to other lakes so should I consider a top and bottom painted boat? I want a quality pain job but at the same time I don't want to have to remove the old paint. I've looked into enamel paint and read that enamel paint never truly cures all the way so is that what the hardener is for? Would leaving my boat docked cause the enamel paint to bubble or peel over time. I just don't want to invest money and time into this paint job and have it bubble and peel within a year or two. It's a nice deep-wide v 14' aluminum boat so it deserves a nice paint job. Think I'll scratch the clear coat idea as you guys suggest but I just want the make sure what ever paint I do decide on will be adhere correctly and last. Zool, by catalyzed paint, do you mean a paint job with a bottom paint for below the water line and a top paint for above? Thanks for the advice!

 

[zool]

Catalyzed paint is just paint and a hardener, reactor, or whatever they chose to call the 2nd part. So basically, the rustoleum with the tractor supply hardener, when mixed is catalyzed, but they aren't specifically formulated to chemically react, just generically, like enamel to enamel hardender. True cat paint needs both parts to cure, rusto is formulated to work on its own.

Bottom paint is a general term for antifouling paint, to use below the waterline, for extended periods in a slip, to prevent growth. It comes in Ablative (soft), Hybrid (semi hard), and hard (slick for racing and sailboats)

Most 2 part paint, PPG, Dupont, BASF, ect automotive, are spray only, most marine 2 part paints offer a spray or brushing reducer, to help slow the paint and level brush/roller marks.

If you plan on using a
brush and roller, like roll and tip, then a good marine topside paint would be good for above the waterline, and bottom paint for below, if being moored.

Some Better Marine 2 part choices include
Awlgrip -Polyurethane LPU
Awlcraft 2000 - Acrylic Urethane
Pettit Easypoxy 2 - Polyurethane

Basically, the hardener allows it to dry quicker, and not allowing it to become porous, and creates a shell to keep solvents from leaching under the finish.

If you plan to have a drastic color change, then consider using the paint recommended primer, as a sealer, so u get a uniformed canvas, if its similar, you can skip the primer.

 

[mp_2008]

Thanks for that Zool. I think I can come up with a game plan now with all the advice.

 

[zool]

Keep in mind, some bottom paints aren't compatible with aluminum, so watch what you choose..Good Luck and post some pics

 

[mp_2008]

Just some other thoughts. If I decide to go with a bottom and top paint since my boat will be moored most the summer. Does the bottom paint have to be stopped at the waterline when a usual load is in the boat, or can it extend 6 inches or so above the water line before I start the top paint. The way my boat is riveted and designed, the water sits below where I'd want to change colors. Also, if I just went with a catalyzed paint or enamel over the whole surface and did keep it moored, would it cause it to flake and peel or would the only real problem with that be slime or growth build up. Cause I can deal with the growth factor, I can always power wash it when I trailer it. Just some thoughts while trying to plan it all out. Want to get it right the first time you know.

 

[mp_2008]

Well I might switch gears a little here. Thinking about putting a black bottom paint below the water line and then doing a camo pattern using spray cans and stencils above the waterline. Just want some quality spray paint that will hold up. Anyone have any suggestions. Been looking at rustoleum enamel spray which my bro used on his boat and it's wearing down after only one season already. Think his boat was bare aluminum and didn't prep it well or use a self etching primer. Seen rustoleum camo spray paint and krylon camo spray but not sure on a brand to go with. Any suggestions regarding this plan?

 

[NicoPags]

I think if you use a etching primer before-hand the enamel spray should hold up well. Might you look into a self etching primer and possibly purchasing the vinyl 3M wrap for the camo? I was at a boat and RV show the other week. They had a boat done in the wrap and I'm really thinking about it. For the most part the vinyl wrap is waterproof not sure about uv resistance. You should map out your build with pictures too I'm interested to see before and after

 

[NicoPags]

The more I think a wrapping would stick to bare metal quite well

 

[Woodonglass]

You only need to use SE Paint on Bare Aluminum. Not required on Aluminum already covered with Paint. Bottom paint is nasty stuff and desisgned to "Wear Off" after a couple of season. In basis terms it kind of dissolves and leeches stuff into the water to keep all the nasty water stuff from attaching to the hull. Soooo you don't want to go crazy with this stuff. I'd try to determine the Waterline for her and keep the paint localized to this point. If you use ANY rattly can product it will NOT stand up very well in the Marine environment. Almost every Post I've ever seen where someone has tried to paint their boat with rattle can products, they've been extrremely dissappointed with the results. If you want durability, you need a catalyzed paint. That's just the plain ole Truth and there's not way around it. The rustoleum paint with the Valspar hardener WILL give you a durable finish for a very reasonable cost. Lots of Tin Boat guys have used it on this forum with excellent results.:eagerness: You can read all about it here...Paint Your Boat with Tractor Paint...Say What!!!