PL adhesive question for boat restoration

igy

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Hi all I have started a boat restoration (in Australia) and am about to install new stringers, transom and deck. Many of you (especially Friscoboater) have mentioned PL glue for laminating ply, glueing stringers to hull etc etc.

Is this the PL construction adhesive that dries relatively firm (probably sandable) or is it the type that dries to a very flexible state (quite rubbery)?

any assistance would be appreciated
cheers Ian
 

matt167

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Re: PL adhesive question for boat restoration

It's rubbery enough when cured that when you hit it with a grinder/ backer pad with 36 grit it's like hitting the brakes and will heat the grinder up, but it can be ground and sanded like that and comes off as a course dust.. If it's only 3-4 days old, it feels like rubber
 

jbcurt00

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Re: PL adhesive question for boat restoration

Still the same flexible vs hard info as before:
Replacing deck, stringers and transom, surface prep questions


The hard spot created by a POINT load of a stringer against the hull is prevented by bedding the stringer in PB or PL. The stringer has a small profile along it's narrow edge. The bedding creates a wider cross section that spreads any loading across a much larger cross section then 'just' the narrow plywood edge. That would be the hard spot....

Some manufacturers raise the stringer off the hull & while suspended, tab the stringer to the hull w/ fiberglass alone, no bedding......... Of all the stringers I've seen posted to Iboats, the large majority of stringers delaminated (glass or tabbing broken/torn free) from the hull were installed w/out bedding. <<<--- Not proof positive that bedding is required, but enough for me......

PL Premium dries in the middle ground somewhere between fairly flexible & fairly hard. PB dries hard, and although if you search thru my posts, I've often supported PL's use for bedding primarily for it's somewhat flexible bond, a great positive in my mind, it does have drawbacks. And you need to be aware that it off gases for 72+hrs, so further work is delayed. As it cures it bubbles when applied heavily or in thick beads (like a fillet), sometimes it bubbles a great deal.

I've not seen 3M 5200 suggested as an alternative bedding compound, but I do think it dries to a somewhat sandable surface, but it too takes quite some time to cure, maybe even longer then PL.......... May not bubble as it cures..... It's expensive... I'm not sure it would make my list of favorites for bedding......

Although fiberglass & resin once cured might have some 'give' or flexibility to it, I don't think that the Shelly's flexible PL will remain that flexible once glassed over......

Since you're working on a fiberglass boat, and will be using polyester resin & fiberglass, I'd suggest that you use PB to bed the stringers, make your fillets & to bond the transom to the fiberglass transom skin. You'll be using a bunch of poly resin & etc to make fillets and for all the glass work, and buying the materials in bulk anyway.

Just my $0.015 :)

If you want to give the Shelly's PL a go, I'm sure the rest of the Aussie/NZ iboaters will benefit from the results you post, for good or for the bad..........

Hope some of that ^^^ helps.........

I'd still recommend the PB resin based filler for bedding the stringers

And PL Premium, in the US, kind of dries to a sandable surface. But it will tend to gum up/load the sandpaper quickly.
 

igy

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Re: PL adhesive question for boat restoration

thank you jbcurt00, i knew I had asked the question somewhere although couldn't find the answer, as I couldnt remember which forum!! Thats great, as I have left my project alone for the last 5 months over our winter and have just started getting my head around it again, and confirming some bits and pieces.
Thank you also matt167 cheers Ian
 
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geneseo1911

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Re: PL adhesive question for boat restoration

I will second jb's assertion that PB is superior to PL. Much easier to work with and you don't have to wait 3-4 days for it to cure. The PL also tends to produce bubbles and voids if it is applied at any thickness at all. It gets hard enough you can't dent it with a fingernail, but not as hard as resin. I used both in my build and in hindsight wished I had just used the resin mixture.
 

bakerjw

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Re: PL adhesive question for boat restoration

I am also a proponent of PB over PL. I like mine hairy too.
 

JASinIL2006

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Re: PL adhesive question for boat restoration

When I did my boat last winter, I also considered going with PL for transom work and attaching the decking. (I didn't need to replace stringers, so bedding them wasn't an issue for me.) I ultimately picked going with thickened resin rather than PL and I'm glad I did.

When I worked on the boat, I often had discrete chunks of time to devote to the project. Using thickened resin (aka peanut butter) allowed me to work with minimal interruptions. Resin cures in a very short amount of time, PL over several days, and maybe longer if the environment is cool. I read too many thread of folks laminating their stringers only to encounter problems later because the PL hadn't fully cured.

In some ways, PL sounded like it would be a bit easier to work with - since you're shooting it out of a tube - but I really didn't find the thickened resin to be that difficult. I suspect it might be cheaper than PL, too, but it's been long enough since I made the cost comparison that I can't verify that easily.

Hope this helps,
Jim
 
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jbcurt00

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Re: PL adhesive question for boat restoration

When I did my boat last winter, I also considered going with PL for transom work and attaching the decking. (I didn't need to replace stringers, so bedding them wasn't an issue for me.) I ultimately picked going with thickened PB resin rather than PL and I'm glad I did.
Correct?


Just a little housekeeping :)
 

JASinIL2006

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Re: PL adhesive question for boat restoration

Correct?


Just a little housekeeping :)

Ooh, yes, thanks, jbcurt00. I went back and edited my reply so as not to confuse anyone who comes across it in the future.

Thanks!

Jim
 

Daniel1947

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Re: PL adhesive question for boat restoration

If using PB to bed the stringers, is it still necessary to put some type of spacers (1/4") between the stringer and the hull?
 

Daniel1947

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Re: PL adhesive question for boat restoration

Thanks Wood...love ya man...but I have read most of your threads and your replies. Information is wonderful, but I had seen many other comments suggesting the spacers, but then that may have been when only using PL. I plan on using PB when I start, and I have printed out your info previously. So glad it ain't copywritted. LOL. Thanks again. I figure that within another couple months and after reading a couple 1000 more threads I will be ready. :lol:
 

igy

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Re: PL adhesive question for boat restoration

All you guys and these forums are just brilliant with all your information and assistance. As I said I had put my project on the back burner for a few months, and now am hoping to get started again (especially since all the kids are now looking at the boat with those doubtful looks that only teenagers can do!!!). I have re-read many of the posts over night and found many snippets of info that I had missed in my previous readings.

I will try and get some pics up once I have worked out how to do that. cheers Ian
 
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