please help with search

G dog

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Jul 31, 2018
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Hello everyone. I am trying to do a search for Joe Reeves link and sync method for my 1984 J70ELCRD. When I type into the search box I get everything but what I am looking for. Can someone that has been around and knows this site help me out with a little direction? I test ran the boat today and it wasn't pretty. Fuel spitting out of all 3 carbs. It would only run about 5mph. Thankfully I had the kicker mounted. Im thinking a link and sync is my first approach.
 

boobie

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The first thing you should do is a compression check !!
 

G dog

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Jul 31, 2018
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yes I did compression and compression is good. I replaced head gasket and manifold gasket prior to test drive. Plus went threw the carbs.
 

Scott Danforth

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Joe Reeves

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You say that you replaced the head gasket and the manifold gasket... Why was this needed?

The manifold gasket... Exhaust baffle manifold or intake manifold?

The no faster than 5 mph mention..... At what throttle setting? If not full throttle, what happens when you advance the throttle? We need a better description of your problem.

Linkage & Synchronization on that model involves...........

Make sure the throttle roller is approximately 3/8" in diameter... if the outer clear cover (if applicable) has broken away, leaving the roller to be roughly 1/8" in diameter... replace the roller.

Back the throttle roller away from the metal cam. Now, adjust the throttle linkages between the carburetors, making sure that the throttle butterflies "all" open and close at the same time. You do not want one or two butterflies closed and one ever so slightly open.

Now, adjust the throttle roller so the throttle butterflies just start to open when the scribe mark of the cam aligns dead center with the throttle roller... not before or after.

At that above setting, check the idle timing (whatever your manual states it should be (2,3,4 degrees, whatever). If the timing is not as it should be, adjust the linkage between the vertical throttle arm and the metal cam.

That's it..... however it's unlikely that this will correct your problem unless your linkages are really off base. Be sure to answer the questions above I started this out with.
 

G dog

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It started with an over heating problem. I pulled the thermostat and inside was full of a brown corrosion. I replaced the thermostat and still over heated. Then decided to pull the head to check for blockage. It was recommended to check and replace the exhaust gaskets as well. Compression is 125 give or take a few lbs. It started and ran fine at home but on the test run when I put it in gear it would run (but not well) but when I tried to advance the throttle it would die. I had friend come over and adjust the linkage for me and seemed to be better. However we took it out again today and still the same problem. Got it home and pulled the plugs.(They were new before the test run today) The bottom was black , the middle was a little brown, and the top looked new like it came out of the box. Rechecked compression and still the same. Did a spark gap test 7/16 gap) and no spark at all. Hooked up a timing light to each cylinder and only the middle would light up. Put an OHM meter on the wires and all checked ok. Then I rechecked spark with the timing light and no spark at all. not even the middle cylinder in witch I had spark 10 minutes before. I did not check the coils. I wouldn't think all three would be bad. The keyway is set in the flywheel. I have not checked timing yet because I can not get it to start. I pulled the plug on the trigger and tested the ohms on the 4 prongs per manual. A and B ohmed out good the rest were a little high. Could this be the problem? or maybe power pack or both?
 

G dog

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Jul 31, 2018
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I forgot to add that this boat is new to me and never had it on the water before first test run
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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since it over-heated......did you replace the raw water pump? if not, do so
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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Fix the ignition.-----This " link and sync "----does not cure all problems as some appear to think.
 

G dog

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Jul 31, 2018
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yes, replaced water pump. That is the plan to go threw ignition system. I haven't been able to find a test procedure for the power pack. Does anyone know of a link?
 

racerone

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You test the parts that feed into the pack.-----Stator and sensor coils first.
 

G dog

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Jul 31, 2018
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Ok, so this is where I am at. The charge coil resistance test is 560. The sensor coil resistance test is as followed. A-D= 12.9 B-D= 14.7 C-D = 13.2. Sensor coil short test. No short. Charge coil test for short. no short. I am not sure how to test the outputs on the charge and sensor coils. My book says I need a special meter. Does anyone know of a way to test with my cheap volt meter? So far everything seams to test out good. Any opinions ?
 
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