Plugged carb?

[iggyw1]

Hi guys, I had a water problem earlier in the year with my motors but installed a water separator that solved that problem. My motors have been running great, then I had a problem with the gas lines changing the fuel a very dark color in the water separator. I changed hoses to a hose that is made for ethanol gasoline. No more problems there with the fuel. Now, a new problem

I have a 1991 Evinrude 6 H.P. motor for trolling. Model # E6REIA. Tried using it here in Michigan the other day and would not even fire. When I got home, I tested the fulel pump. I am getting gas thru it to the carburator. Removed my plugs. Good spark (new plugs) but they are dry and no gas smell at all on them. No gas coming out of the front of the carb. When I squeeze the primer ball, it is rock hard. I can push the button in on the connection and gas shoots out with no problem I am thinking that the carb is plugged with something.

Quwstion: Someone told me to remove the air box to get to the carb. Remove the drain from bottom of carb and blow thru the little hose with my air compressor after I remove it from the fuel pump and supposibly whatever is plugging the carb jets will blow thru and out of the carb. Shall I try this or not?? I looked at a diagram of my carb and I do not see a drain plug on the diagram. Is there a drain on the float bowl or elsewhere on my carb?? Thanks for any help or input you have to offer me again!

 

[Grub54891]

Depends on the carb of it has a drain or not. If it's a stamped tin bowl, probably not, you loosen the big bolt on the bottom. Of a cast bowl, there should be a drain on the side. Either way, the best cure is to remove the carb and take it apart for a good cleaning. Blowing air would free up the float needle, but could damage it if you apply to much pressure.

 

[iggyw1]

Depends on the carb of it has a drain or not. If it's a stamped tin bowl, probably not, you loosen the big bolt on the bottom. Of a cast bowl, there should be a drain on the side. Either way, the best cure is to remove the carb and take it apart for a good cleaning. Blowing air would free up the float needle, but could damage it if you apply to much pressure.

Thanks for your input. I was concerned that if I put the air compressor to it, something might get destroyed. I think I will try removing the carb myself then take it to a shop to get it cleaned and rebuilt. When it is done, I will re-install it and should be good to go. Thanks.

 

[iggyw1]

Depends on the carb of it has a drain or not. If it's a stamped tin bowl, probably not, you loosen the big bolt on the bottom. Of a cast bowl, there should be a drain on the side. Either way, the best cure is to remove the carb and take it apart for a good cleaning. Blowing air would free up the float needle, but could damage it if you apply to much pressure.

Thanks for your input. I was concerned that if I put the air compressor to it, something might get destroyed. I think I will try removing the carb myself then take it to a shop to get it cleaned and rebuilt. When it is done, I will re-install it and should be good to go. Thanks.

 

[iggyw1]

I was concerned about putting the air compressor to it. I think I will try removing the carb myself then take it to a shop and let a mechanic rebuild it, and I will re-stall it and be good to go. It may not be worth my while taking it off and re-installing it myself though. I might not save too much of the repair cost doing it myself. I will check it out with a mechanic. Thanks.

 

[Grub54891]

I was concerned about putting the air compressor to it. I think I will try removing the carb myself then take it to a shop and let a mechanic rebuild it, and I will re-stall it and be good to go. It may not be worth my while taking it off and re-installing it myself though. I might not save too much of the repair cost doing it myself. I will check it out with a mechanic. Thanks.

​at least when I rebuild a carb, I prefer to have the whole motor, remove/reinstall and test run. That way I know it was set up correctly. Just bring them the motor, it will save you running around and you know it'll work when you get it back. And it may save you money by not having to bring it to them to fix what you could not figure out.

 

[jimmbo]

Sounds like a stuck float/inlet valve, or a blocked line between the pump and carb

 

[iggyw1]

Thanks guys. I really thought about this and I will take the motor as is to a mechanic. If I wait until the nice weather here in Michigan, I could probably end up doing it myself, but I want the thing running good for my mid March walleye run in the Detroit River come 2018. If I take it in now, the mechanic will not need to rush and he has all winter to get her done and running right. Thanks guys.

 

[iggyw1]

Oops! double post

 

[iggyw1]

Sounds like a stuck float/inlet valve, or a blocked line between the pump and carb

Thank jimmbo. I think it is a stuck float/inlet valve too. I am getting gas to the carb. The line between the pump and carb is clear. I removed this line from the carb and when I pull the manual starting cord, gas is spitting out from the hose from the pump. If the motor was running, I am sure this flow would be much greater too.

 

[iggyw1]

​at least when I rebuild a carb, I prefer to have the whole motor, remove/reinstall and test run. That way I know it was set up correctly. Just bring them the motor, it will save you running around and you know it'll work when you get it back. And it may save you money by not having to bring it to them to fix what you could not figure out.

Thanks Grub. I agree with you on this. It is probably best that I take the mechainc the motor as is. It is not worth a few bucks saved to do a lot of running around and tinkering trying to "tweak" it in when I get the carb back. I just want it running. Thanks!

 

[iggyw1]

Why are my post all coming out as double posts? I am hitting the post button once only and very carefully, but 100% of my post are now double OR triple posts! Sorry.