Plywood Starcraft Deck

[linxlvr]

OK. This is not to start an ongoing argument of press treats or anything else. I just want to double check this is OK. I'm not rebuilding the QEII here, nor do I really have the funds to set aside right now to be doing this. But it is fishing season...

I would like it to last 5 to 10 years. Please let me know if something stands out as wrong.

The original deck was 1/2" ply of some type and vinyl flooring blind riveted to crossmembers and center "Z" strip.


I am going to go to a local lumber yard and get AC Exterior grade 1/2" plywood. I am not going to let it dry. After drilling / cutting, I am going to paint the bottom of the sheet, and the sides of the ply, including in screw holes, with deck paint. I am going to then paint the top and edges with 88 type glue and apply the Nautolex vinyl flooring, cutting two inches past each edgeto wrap it over the edge. I am then going to attach with blind aluminum rivets with aluminum mandrels.

TYIA for any and all input.
--
dw

 

[BonairII]

Re: Plywood Starcraft Deck

Your going to want to use a grade of plywood that is free of voids etc. I'd use 3/4" if I were you. My 16' Starcraft originally had 1/2", but I used 3/4" to replace it and I'm glad I did.

Your boat only has one stringer(mine had 2), so the stronger the plywood the better.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Plywood Starcraft Deck

Seal your decking (plywood) on all surfaces (top too) before applying adhesive and finish.

Don't be afraid of the 3/4" plywood decking... it is your friend. The factory just used 1/2" to save money and they knew they wouldn't be in your boat anyway.

Make sure your plywood is kiln dried (it's on the stamp) if you're not going to wait for it to dry.

Don't forget your floatation foam!!!... as much as you can fit in, everywhere you can fit some in!

Steel mandrel rivets are stronger than aluminum mandrel rivets.

 

[linxlvr]

Re: Plywood Starcraft Deck

Thank you both of you for your replies.
I 'll be sure to make the recommended adjustments to my original plans. I know all the info is here, just I kept running into such a plethora of stuff while looking for it.

Thanks again.
--
dw

 

[The DM]

Re: Plywood Starcraft Deck

Your Starcraft looks a lot like mine does at this current moment, haha.
I'm following this one closely, as your plans sound exactly like mine. Good luck with your progress!

 

[snowman48047]

Re: Plywood Starcraft Deck

When you apply the 88 type glue and apply the Nautolex vinyl flooring, it will need 3 days minimum to cure. I'm using it now for my new deck and it is taking forever.

 

[linxlvr]

Re: Plywood Starcraft Deck

Your Starcraft looks a lot View attachment 151645like mine does at this current moment, haha.
I'm following this one closely, as your plans sound exactly like mine. Good luck with your progress!

I'll have to post some pics of a cross piece I cam up with so I could cover the deck. Does yours have a Z strip running down the center?
--
dw

 

[linxlvr]

Re: Plywood Starcraft Deck

When you apply the 88 type glue and apply the Nautolex vinyl flooring, it will need 3 days minimum to cure. I'm using it now for my new deck and it is taking forever.

Thanks for the note. I suppose I'll be missing all of my June fishing as well as the May fishing. :-(
--
dw

 

[SierraMark]

Re: Plywood Starcraft Deck

Linxlvr,

What model Starcraft is that? I am wondering if mine looks like that.

I am going to be doing new decking on mine after the summer so I will follow this thread.

Thanks and good luck with the restore.

-Mark

 

[linxlvr]

Re: Plywood Starcraft Deck

I would classify it as a 1986 16' Deep V Utility. I don't really know that I am right though.

This is what it looks like normally (many moons ago).


--
dw

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Plywood Starcraft Deck

I would suggest going with the alum rivs.. just a suggestion..

Steel and Alum dont like each other that well.

YD.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Plywood Starcraft Deck

Steel and Alum dont like each other that well.

YD.

That's what some people say, but I'm not sure that those people have ever owned or disassembled a factory assembled aluminum boat. If they had, I'm sure they'd have noticed all the stainless steel screws, nuts, bolts, washers, rivets and other parts on an aluminum boat... all installed at the factory and used by all the tinny manufacturers.

 

[sprintst]

Re: Plywood Starcraft Deck

That's what some people say, but I'm not sure that those people have ever owned or disassembled a factory assembled aluminum boat. If they had, I'm sure they'd have noticed all the stainless steel screws, nuts, bolts, washers, rivets and other parts on an aluminum boat... all installed at the factory and used by all the tinny manufacturers.

Some metals are more reactive. I went with aluminum rivets and stainless steel hardware for bolts, etc as it is harder stuff. Looks like stainless steel is a good compromise unless you can afford titanium or gold

Here's the chart for reactive metals.

Requirements for Galvanic Corrosion:

In order for galvanic corrosion to occur, three elements are required.
1) Dissimilar metals
2) Metal-to-metal contact
3) Metals in the same conduction solution (usually called an electrolyte)
This can be air/water or moisture no just "solutions".
If any of these elements is missing, galvanic corrosion cannot occur. If, for example, the direct contact between the two metals is prevented (plastic washer, paint film etc.) there cannot be galvanic corrosion.
The greater the corrosion potential of each metal (the more active or more noble) the greater the potential for corrosion. The "galvanic series" has been developed to list the various metals in order from most active to most noble:


SCALE:

More Anodic
|
Magnesium
Galvanized Steel
Aluminum
Mild Steel
Low Alloy Steel
Cast Iron
Lead
Tin
Muntz Metal
Yellow Brass
Red Brass
Copper
Aluminum Bronze
Silver
Stainless Steel (430)
Stainless Steel (304)
Stainless Steel (316)
Monel
Silver
Titanium
GOLD

|
V
More Cathodic


Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Will_stainless_steel_react_when_in_cotact_with_aluminum#ixzz1xdqJRfnP