Port bank of engine = dirty; Starboard bank of engine = clean (internally).

ribby1

Cadet
Joined
Jul 11, 2015
Messages
10
1995 Johnson J150SLEOM;
Location: Colorado (4800 ft altitude);
Cold compression (psi):
1 - 108; 2- 110; 3 - 109; 4 - 108; 5 - 100; 6 - 98.

Hello;
History:
Removed, cleaned, and rebuilt all 6 carbs.
Removed. and cleaned, both throttle bodies.

Since I was this far, I decided to remove both intake manifolds to inspect the reed valves.
Engine was not spitting, but as I have never removed the intakes (owned since new), I figured what the heck.

Upon removal, I immediately noticed the 3 port side crankcase intake openings (where the reed valve assemblies sit) were considerably dirtier than the starboard intake openings.
The starboard side looks almost as clean as new (shiny cast aluminum), but the port side has substantial dark carbon on all cast aluminum surfaces.
Note: the port side has a history of fouling plugs much more often than starboard side.

General question:
What could cause the starboard half of motor to be very clean (internally) and port half to be heavily carbonized?

I have considered the starboard bank of cylinders may be running hotter (more cleaning?) than
the port bank of cylinders, but the engine runs fine at 150F at idle speed. No overheating.
Also, all 6 carb have the same #30 mid-range jets, and 57D high-speed jets.

Any ideas on what could, or could have, caused this?

Note: I am going to decarbonize engine, with a gallon of gas/seafoam mix, at next outing.

Thank you very much in advance for any ideas.
 

ribby1

Cadet
Joined
Jul 11, 2015
Messages
10
Hi;
I may have answered my own question.
If the port bank fouls plugs more often than starboard bank, then the port bank should not consistently run as hot as starboard bank.
Thus, not as much cleaning.....

So my question now becomes:
The plug fouling (Champion QL78YC; 0.030" gap) increased when I changed plug wires a few years back.
The original wires were the black factory wires (non-resistive?), but all l could find (at the time) were CDI 931-4921 wires.
The CDI wires are gray, and I believe they are resistor wires.
I don't believe the motor has performed as well with the CDI wires.
Note: OEM Ignition pack and coils.

Can anyone comment on OEM spark plug wires vs these CDI wires?
Also, does anyone know where I could buy the black factory wires again?

Thank you for your help.
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,612
NAPA, possibly. Used in some farm equipment so that can be a clue to location. Solid or wound wire core. Get an open air spark tester (not the inline type). Measure ignition strength (look for half inch or more on each lead.)
 

Crosbyman

Vice Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2006
Messages
5,647
7mm regular solid core metallic copper or other metals is available on amazon, bike shops, mower repair shops etc...

I know copper is preferred but 2 feet of solid metallic wire is still 0 ohms

if you need special end connectors well you have to get the real stuff...$$$
 
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