power from key switch

rost495

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 10, 2005
Messages
109
Getting it all worked out... dawns on me there is no need for fuel, tach, temp, gauges to run while the motor is off, IE draw current. I was going to connect to a fuse block with master off, but now it seems I should find a fuse protected circuit somehow but controlled by the switch only.

I'll put VHF and depthfinder on the master power circuit with nav,aerotor, bilge etc...

Got any clue to what terminal provides power from the switch? B ??

Thanks in advance.
Jeff
 

RetNav

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 14, 2003
Messages
758
Re: power from key switch

The "A" terminal is the switched d c. That will put power to the guages only when the key is on.
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,771
Re: power from key switch

On a fishing boat I tend to dislike a "Master" power switch. At the dock, you want your bilge pump (automatic function) to work so the boat doesn't sink should it leak or get rained on while you are not there. Aerators need to run if you have fish in the livewell. Your locator has an On/Off switch as do most other accessories. My point is that some things you want to turn off and its convenient to hit a MASTER switch. However there are certain things that you don't want turned off regardless. Yes -- the "A" terminal is the correct +12V key on supply.
 

rost495

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 10, 2005
Messages
109
Re: power from key switch

A - got it, thanks.

BTW master may have been the wrong word, but what I meant is gauges controlled by switch power, and everything else under a master on/off like a main breaker, one thats on all the time we are in the boat regardless of motor off or on...
And have 2 bilges, one 750 auto all the time direct to a battery, and one 1500 on the power source under the master or main.

Thanks again, Jeff
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,771
Re: power from key switch

Every gauge on the dash except for water pressure and the speedometer require +12V for operation. The +12V terminal on those gauges are daisy-chained and fed with a single line from the "A" terminal on the ignition switch.
 
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