Re: Power tilt/trim on a force 125 not working
sp - this is a conversation i had with Frank some weeks back on my tilt motor. i have not attempted any fix as of yet. this may help you with further info, not sure:
Hi Frank;
I was hoping to impose on your knowledge. I have a slow creep down on my tilt assembly. I have done some reading and feel the motor may be my cause. I guess there is an inertia valve inside that goes bad? Question. Can I remove this motor housing unit and take it to a hydraulic business and they can rebuild it? Is it simple to remove? Thanks for any reply...
A slow creep down is usually a bad O ring in the check valve located in the valve body in the front of the pump. There were two types: A valve body held in with an internal circlip, and a valve body that screwed in and out with a hex or Allen wrench.
The circlip type can not be rebuilt and you need to buy a whole valve body. If you remove the circlip and activate the motor, the valve body will forcefully blow out of the pump body. But, I don't know where to buy a replacement. If you can find a thread with RRitt, he does a lot of tilt/trim and may know.
The screw in type can be rebuilt. You take a non marring pliers and twist and pull the end cap (holds the internal O ring in place). It will come off, then the check valve and very small O ring in its end will fall out. Replace that O ring with a new Viton one and replace the end cap, pressing it back on firmly.
In either case, since the rear, or valve body facing the transom get much less strain, it is usually in better condition. And the check valve in this body is not necessary (You don't need to hold the engine in the down position--it stays that way normally and will not slowly bleed up). So, if you remove the pump and switch the valve bodies, (very difficult with circlip type) you will probably be OK for at least another season.
Thanks Frank I think I follow. Both these check valves whether O rings or circlip style live in the black motor housing mounted on the transom specifically the one that has the black power cord and hydraulic lines at the bottom?
Uh, well, they all have a black power cord and hydraulic lines in the bottom! The pump itself has three hydraulic lines going in the side and one entering the front bottom. You can see the end of one valve body just above this line. All pumps are essentially alike with the only major difference being how the valve is held into the pump body. Disconnect the hydraulic lines--first supporting the engine, if up, so it will not drop on you, or work with the engine completely down--trim and tilt. Four phillips head screws hold the pump onto the bottom of the reservoir. Use a bucket underneath, about 1/2 pint of oil will come out if you remove the pump. Hydraulic lines are in very tight, a 3/8 flair wrench works best, but on one line you may be forced to use a 3/8 open end. If you use an open end wrench, be sure that the opening is thick so it bears on as much of the flare fitting as possible. (Look and see that some wrenches are way thicker than others.) This is a case where high quality tools are better to use. The fittings are slightly difficult to put back--be sure you don't cross thread when starting them, or strip them.
If you want to remove the rear valve body, the only options you have are to:
1. remove the pump, or
2. dismount the engine from the transom, or
3. unbolt the whole pump/motor assembly and bend it and the hydraulic lines forward to gain clearance. --(least desireable option since you need to bend lines back and it is difficult enough the bolt up the assembly without having bent the lines.)
This is because there is almost no room between the transom and the pump.
