Prep work for Paint ?'s

[Tazman282]

So I have read every thread back to 2008 and understand that the prep work is the most important. In regards to prep work, how much sanding are we talking? I did a pretty lousy job on my deck as far as fiberglass as in it isn't totally smooth, I have been sanding for days with 40 grit and it just doesn't seem to ever totally smooth out evenly and if I hit the same spot long enough it seems to leave resin on the pad which then requires another pad. Is this normal?

I am unable to feel a difference barefoot, but when rubbed with my hand I can feel unevenness but very smooth. Is there a better method to sanding and what would be the final sandpaper grit before painting 120?

I have been looking at options for paint and am leaning towards Rustoleum Marine Grade, what do you think of this method: "One trick I used when painting my boat with Rustoleum Marine paint was to mix it with 30% mineral spirits. This thins the paint just enough, so the paint will "lay down" smooth, giving you the desired finish. I only wet sanded the primer, not the paint."

I am planning on the roll/tip method as I have never used a spray gun.

Any info you can provide is greatly appreciated, I am just looking to finish this boat as it has almost been shipped off to the junkyard on two occasions and if not done soon a third.

 

[Tazman282]

Re: Prep work for Paint ?'s

Also, must I use gelcoat to protect the fiberglass or can I just paint the fiberglass?

 

[oops!]

Re: Prep work for Paint ?'s

you can paint the deck....rustoueum is fine.

the way to get it flat is to sand with a long sanding board.
a small sanding block will be tons of work and you will never get it even.

see if you can find a boat sanding board if you really want results......its twice as wide and a foot longer.

after the 40......go 80...then 120...

oh......and sand the high spots...not all a round the highs....just the highs.

 

[Tazman282]

Re: Prep work for Paint ?'s

Well I am already using an orbital sander, is a big block sanding board better?
Perhaps I am just trying to make it to perfect in the first place, I already hit all high points, it just isn't nearly as smooth as the original walls. Hopefully once I finish with the 120 and paint, it will be what I am looking for. I think I may have used to thin of fiberglass in the first place and the reason why it isn't totally smooth like my transom which I used Biax on. Also, would you recommend adding the 30% mineral spirit to the paint to thin out?

 

[Ciera2450]

Re: Prep work for Paint ?'s

If you roll and tip, I don't believe you need to thin the paint. Thinning makes it easier to spray.
I have rustoleum for several boat projects and have never thinned it.
You can add an enamel hardener that will increase the durability and gloss of the paint

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Prep work for Paint ?'s

Check out Page#10 in my "My Flamingo" thread listed below. It has all the details you need on how to apply your Rustoleum paint.

 

[oops!]

Re: Prep work for Paint ?'s

yeah...and rustolieum is such thick paint that it lays flat every time.......you will have no worries

 

[Tazman282]

Re: Prep work for Paint ?'s

I was thinking about just giving poliglow or biokleen a go on the outside hull or should I just repaint. Last painted 10 to 12 years ago.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Prep work for Paint ?'s

We had a member use poliglow and was initially thrilled with it, however it went bad somehow (I forget what happened) and he ended up stripping it all back off.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Prep work for Paint ?'s

Need Pics please ..

Deck .. Fordeck or like Cockpit deck .. ? ..

What is it your doing here..

Pics are needed please .

YD.