Problems with changing the water pump on a 5.5 Fisherman

[jmk]

Hello all, jmk here, and I am trying to change my water pump. I have a 5.5 1964 Fisherman. The book says to remove the power head as in section 5. Has anyone ever changed the water pump impeller on one of these little motors? I am having problems getting the power head to separate. They say there is just seven bolts and I took seven out. I'm thinking that the gasket is holding it, but I have never had a gasket hold a part so good before. Is there a trick to separating this? I hit it with the rubber mallet, but I don't want to break it by hitting it to hard. I want to get a screw driver in between the two parts and drive it but the bottom half of the motor housing is right in the way with its rubber foam seal. I didn't take all the accessories off the motor like the book says. That seems silly to me. I can't believe how much stuff has to come apart to change the impeller. All this to get to the shift linkage nut! any help is very appreciated. Thanks, jmk

 

[jrs_diesel]

Re: Problems with changing the water pump on a 5.5 Fisherman

Is there anything you may have overlooked? Throttle linkage, starter assembly, control knobs, fuel lines, etc.

I have a 72 6HP, and am lucky to be able to drop the L/U to service the water pump. I have taken the powerhead off recently. Mine also had the 7 main bolts to hold the block to the midsection. But I had to remove or disconnect the all the other devices first. And after that i had to carefully pry mine up (very carefully), since the gasket and a little corrosion held the two together slightly.

And yes, I can not get to my upper shifter lever linkage without first getting the powerhead off either.

 

[bktheking]

Re: Problems with changing the water pump on a 5.5 Fisherman

Yup, same as my 7.5. Powerhead is stuck to the exhaust housing. Stick a thin flathead where the gasket is most accessible and tap it in with that mallet you are using, it will give, you need to get at that gasket regardless. You did take the fuel lines off and the linkages and such?

 

[1946Zephyr]

Re: Problems with changing the water pump on a 5.5 Fisherman

you only need a light tap with a rubber mallot. If you by chance have a new powerhead gasket, you can pinpoint the locations to all the bolts that hold down the powerhead. It should come right off. I haven't seen any yet that were stuck on that good.

 

[cajuncook1]

Re: Problems with changing the water pump on a 5.5 Fisherman

I recently had to removed the head off of my 1967 6hp Evinrude(similar type motor) to replace a shift lever. Very good advice given to me by FR was to replace:

Drive shaft gasket to c-case --- part number # 303355

Lower bearing O ring --- part number # 303347

Lower bearing seal --- part number # 303391


These parts need to be replaced even though they look good. It is not often you remove your powerhead and they prevent water from entering up the shaft. If water travels up the shaft it can cause corrosion,rusting and possibly causing your shaft and powerhead fuse by rust. Then it is very hard or impossible to remove the shaft to change the waterpump.

I have supplied link to a parts diagram (added for better understanding) borrowed from marineengine.com, because I could not find another parts diagram.

Change part 1, 3, and 4 in the diagram ( go to page 11 listed on the left, the link would not let me post the exact section)

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/v...ntage-evinrude-johnson/278539/27853900001.htm

You will be able to see the shaft and parts when you remove the powerhead. Please pay attention to the order of the parts on the drive shaft. Refer back to the diagram if you need.

You will also want to replace the exhaust housing gasket that seals the powerhead and the exhaust housing ---- part # 306205

Good luck with your engine!!!

cajuncook1

 

[jmk]

Re: Problems with changing the water pump on a 5.5 Fisherman

I unbolted the lower motor housing, and took off the carb. I just rebuilt the carb and put it on, but took it back off so the choke linkage wouldn't get broke if the assembly all of a sudden came off in a bad way. I took off the glass bowl and filter I haven't yet took off the throttle linkage. Good thing I didn't hit it hard yet. It's hard to tell what really needs to all come off. I would think the throttle linkage would be all that's left. The way the book reads they want:

A Remove carburetor, leaf valve assembly, fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel lines described in section 3

I removed the carb, fuel filter, and lines. I just can't see why the other stuff would need to come off.

B Remove starter, flywheel, and magneto as described in section 4

I actually removed the starter and then started to get frustrated thinking why would any of this need to come off?

C. Remove throttle control lever by removing two screws and clamps, and lifting lever from lower motor cover.


I over looked this and yes this should come off. Although I don't see this stopping the power cylinder from popping loose.

D Remove retaining ring and armature plate support

No need to do this right?

E Remove seven screws that fasten power head to exhaust housing assembly
Remove power head and place it on the bench.

Ya right! Well, it must be that the gasket has glued and cured since 1964. I never had a gasket hold like this unless I still had bolts to take off, but I guess it's that stubborn. I didn't get the power head gaskets yet, but I can see the picture of it apart in the book. It only shows seven holes. It does have lots of gasket surface area.

Well, I bought the seal kit, and water impeller. I didn't get the power head gaskets. Is there any other time compliance parts I will need to get in order to finish this? It's going to be another $15 for shipping again. I needed to get the gasket for the glass bowl at the fuel filter anyway. That was spraying gas out when pumping the bulb on the fuel line. all input helps and thanks for all the comments, jmk. Maybe I should get the thermostat and gaskets too? This motor is so clean. It was only used a couple weekends out of the year for seven years than sat in a heated garage with the canvas cover on. All the paint was just about flawless till I started wrenching. Even though it's as old as me it looks like a new baby! I hope I don't break it. The guy wanted $350 for it, but when it wouldn't run I offered $250. We could get it running by spraying gas in the carb so I figured it was just the needle valve stuck, and that is what it was too. If everything works out it will be about $350 by the time I replace all the time compliance parts That have gone bad. The electronics could be all fine? It ran after the forth pull after rebuilding the carb, but I don't think the water pump wasn't working so I shut it down. I figured I would get the lower end done before trying to fine tune it.

 

[jmk]

Re: Problems with changing the water pump on a 5.5 Fisherman

I recently had to removed the head off of my 1967 6hp Evinrude(similar type motor) to replace a shift lever. Very good advice given to me by FR was to replace:

Drive shaft gasket to c-case --- part number # 303355

Lower bearing O ring --- part number # 303347

Lower bearing seal --- part number # 303391


These parts need to be replaced even though they look good. It is not often you remove your powerhead and they prevent water from entering up the shaft. If water travels up the shaft it can cause corrosion,rusting and possibly causing your shaft and powerhead fuse by rust. Then it is very hard or impossible to remove the shaft to change the waterpump.

I have supplied link to a parts diagram (added for better understanding) borrowed from marineengine.com, because I could not find another parts diagram.

Change part 1, 3, and 4 in the diagram ( go to page 11 listed on the left, the link would not let me post the exact section)

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/v...ntage-evinrude-johnson/278539/27853900001.htm

You will be able to see the shaft and parts when you remove the powerhead. Please pay attention to the order of the parts on the drive shaft. Refer back to the diagram if you need.

You will also want to replace the exhaust housing gasket that seals the powerhead and the exhaust housing ---- part # 306205

Good luck with your engine!!!

cajuncook1

Your reply came while I was writing up my last reply. Thanks for the link. I will check it out and make sure that I change those parts. I am a firm believer in doing it right the first time. I've learned to many times over.

 

[jmk]

Re: Problems with changing the water pump on a 5.5 Fisherman

I recently had to removed the head off of my 1967 6hp Evinrude(similar type motor) to replace a shift lever. Very good advice given to me by FR was to replace:

Drive shaft gasket to c-case --- part number # 303355

Lower bearing O ring --- part number # 303347

Lower bearing seal --- part number # 303391


These parts need to be replaced even though they look good. It is not often you remove your powerhead and they prevent water from entering up the shaft. If water travels up the shaft it can cause corrosion,rusting and possibly causing your shaft and powerhead fuse by rust. Then it is very hard or impossible to remove the shaft to change the waterpump.

I have supplied link to a parts diagram (added for better understanding) borrowed from marineengine.com, because I could not find another parts diagram.

Change part 1, 3, and 4 in the diagram ( go to page 11 listed on the left, the link would not let me post the exact section)

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/v...ntage-evinrude-johnson/278539/27853900001.htm

You will be able to see the shaft and parts when you remove the powerhead. Please pay attention to the order of the parts on the drive shaft. Refer back to the diagram if you need.

You will also want to replace the exhaust housing gasket that seals the powerhead and the exhaust housing ---- part # 306205

Good luck with your engine!!!

cajuncook1

Thanks for the manual. I thought I had the same one till I started to turn the pages. Mine is so much smaller, and doesn't have the exploded diagrams as well as this one. I have the whole seal kit so I defiantly want to get them in. It's funny on this motor I can see the grease from where it squirted out the very first time it was greased. That's how little this motor was used. Other than the dusty britannia on it, it looks bran new! My friends think I am crazy for buying such an old motor, but I think I found a real gem. From what I have read these motors run really good. I like the lean mixture screw knob for smooth running at low rpm's. I want to say thanks guys and keep it coming. This site rocks!

 

[floatingwoody2006]

Re: Problems with changing the water pump on a 5.5 Fisherman

edit..stupid reply.

 

[jmk]

Re: Problems with changing the water pump on a 5.5 Fisherman

Yes!! I got a screw driver in there and on the second hit she poped free. I will have to order those upper seals. They aren't in my kit.

I have another question on the special tool sealent for the long rubber seal that fits between the cases. Is this a silicone? Can I use silcone there, or should I use silicone there? What are you guys useing there?

Oh ya, moving along with the project again! Thanks guys for the help, jmk.

 

[jrs_diesel]

Re: Problems with changing the water pump on a 5.5 Fisherman

My books call for OMC Adhesive M for the case halves. Not sure if anything can be substituted.