Project motor

[ferdly1]

I have a project motor I am working on a little at a time. Its a 1997 75hp force.I have two problems right now. First the regulator is blown. I have a spare regulator that came from a 1997 40 hp force. The part number is 84515 supposedly it will fit on the 75hp. However the old regulator ON THE 75 was a 4 wire without ground red yellow yellow and gray. I guess the unit is grounded thru the frame. No discernable part number just a date 1996. Probably original part. The regulator from my 40 hp is a five wire yellow yellow red red gray and black ground wire. On the 40hp the extra red wire is hooked to itself basically. Can I do that with this 5 wire regulator, I will have to get a different butt connector to do so 2 into one? When i looked up part number on Iboats it said it would work on a 75hp. Just trying to be careful.

My second problem is the vertical pivot tube that allows the motor to swivel side to side is almost frozen. I belive the motor has to be removed to access this. My problem is engine mount bolts are rusted and Gonna try propane torch to free them. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Yes, the engine block needs to be removed to access the kingpin. So does the four lower bolts. Then you get something (like a big socket or a piece of pipe and drive the kingpin down out of the lower cowl. For the lower mount bolts. get behind the mount itself and spray the motor mount with penetrant. Those four bolts go through the cap, through the front plate and into the motor mount itself. They usually snap at the motor mount, not near the head. They may be tight in the aluminum cap and front plate and heat here will help..

Project engines are fun because no matter how much trouble they give you generally don't need them and time is on your side.

Not sure about the regulator but I think with a little wiring change it can be swapped.

have fun working on the 75. When you get it running you may be su

 

[ferdly1]

Thanks Frank. This is more of trying to recover some of my dignity motor. I should have caught some of the problems before I bought this motor. . I have several more questions and I have pictures. If you look at the picture the motor sits at an angle. The trim is all the way down and it is right against the stop. Just wondering if this is the right bracket for this motor. http://screencast.com/t/H7ImwMKnpMM The engine mount bolts appear to be located inside the engine. Gonna be a pain to get at a couple of them. http://screencast.com/t/2dXAsTZWjsK Please correct me if I am wrong..

 

[pnwboat]

The regulator from your 40HP motor will work on the 75HP motor. Make sure you connect both red wires together and you be fine.

 

[Frank Acampora]

It has been a long time since I rebuilt a 70 or 75. BUT: The two bolts shown in the photo do need to be removed. Not sure if they need to be removed to separate the block from the leg or separate the block from the match plate.

Now, from what I see in the photo, the transom clamps are correct. The engine appears to be sitting on a stand with little tilt. Remember that transoms usually have a degree of rearward tilt and this puts the engine closer to correct position. Besides, if the transom clamps were incorrect the power TNT would not fit between them correctly. It would have been jury rigged. At least, that's my story and I'm sticking to it! LOL

 

[ferdly1]

Thanks you Answered my question about the red wires. Also thanks on answering my tilt question, felt stupid asking it, just suspicious of everything about this motor. On my 1997 40 hp force there is a lower wrap around cowling you remove to get access to the 6 lower engine bolts. I have actually pulled that motor before to change gaskets and seals. However on this force no such cowling. Serial number of this motor is OE2458. I found my manual. In the manual it says to remove 5 bolts which hold engine to driveshaft housing. There isn't an adapter plate in between from what I can see. No picture in manual. Going by competitors website for picture. The thing that concerns me is beaking the heads off this bolts they are pretty well rusted. Hard to get at these bolts even with the harness and linkages removed. I guess I will have to buy a tap and do some rethreading or possibly let a machine shop do it. Two questions I have. Once I remove the kingpin will I be able to polish it up and reuse it or will it have to be replaced? Number 2 and most important. Will this motor handle the rigors of a salt water environment which is my ultimate goal? These motors don't look very saltwater resistant compared to my evinrude which endured 25 years of saltwater until I blew up motor. However I took good care of that motor and hosed it down and flushed it after each use.

 

[ferdly1]

I have a question. I got the motor running doesn't sound half bad. Thought I would make sure motor still runs before I pulled the kingpin. I have a question though.
I hooked up the water hose to the pipe where the water pump would hook up so engine getting plenty of water. The start switch did not work will check out yellow/red wire later probably start switch. I used a remote starter switch to crank motor and squirted fuel in carb. Engine cranked right up. However I wasn't able to shut it down. kill switch didn't work either. I believe there is a black/yellow or yellow /black wire that provides ground Thinking of disconnecting at bullet connector and run a wire to it to ground out motor next time. Is it possible to do this and do you know which wire provides ground for motor.or should I check out switch? I Hate taking the throttle control box apart but will if necessary. As always any and all help is appreciated.