Prop Shaft bearing cage

[noah4009]

I have a 1971 Chrysler 55HP. Model 557HC. When I got the motor the prop was bent. When I removed the prop shaft bearing cage I noticed the top hex socket hd cap screw was smaller then bottom. The original hole was rethread to a smalller diameter. I re-sealed LU and when i put on bearing cage noticed top of bearing cage a crack that opened when I tightened the top socket head crew. Crack is on very top. It is on tight and seams fine. I ran motor in a garbage can in neutral and in forward and reverse and all seams fine. Should I worry at all?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Prop Shaft bearing cage

That gland is sealing the gearcase by an O ring in a groove. The O ring seals and the plug into the gearcase locates it against sideways forces.

The two capscrews locate the gland against reverse forces and light gear thrust loads. They do not need to be killer tight. Tight enough to keep them from vibrating loose is sufficient. Even if one ear were to break, the gland would most likely **** and jam in the case rather than being pushed out.

Since reverse is for the most part used in low power applications, like gently braking at docking, The crack in the upper ear is not a major consideration BUT it should not be ignored either. For the time being, a little JB forced into the crack should hold but if the crack starts to enlarge, it is time to replace the gland. Unless the crack migrates into the plug and under the O ring seal (not likely) there is no danger of water entering the gearcase through this route.

I would run it and examine it after every run, while keeping my eyes open for another gland and possibly gearcase torpedo at a good price.

 

[noah4009]

Re: Prop Shaft bearing cage

Since reverse is for the most part used in low power applications, like gently braking at docking, The crack in the upper ear is not a major consideration BUT it should not be ignored either. For the time being, a little JB forced into the crack should hold but if the crack starts to enlarge, it is time to replace the gland. Unless the crack migrates into the plug and under the O ring seal (not likely) there is no danger of water entering the gearcase through this route.

Hi Frank, As I said the crack is at the very top. It runs down to the top screw. 1/4" This is where it ends. It is not in the plug or going inside where the o'ring is. It is only outside running and beginning on top ear above top screw, straight up to top of top ear. Now you mentioned use JB to fill crack. What is JB?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Prop Shaft bearing cage

Epoxy! JB Weld. Found at Wal-Mart, KMart, all auto stores etc. You have your choice of JB Weld with 40 minute working time and JB quick which sets-up in about 5 minutes.

You just need to be gertain that no grease, oil, or corrosion is in the crack.

 

[noah4009]

Re: Prop Shaft bearing cage

Epoxy! JB Weld. Found at Wal-Mart, KMart, all auto stores etc. You have your choice of JB Weld with 40 minute working time and JB quick which sets-up in about 5 minutes.

You just need to be gertain that no grease, oil, or corrosion is in the crack.

So I should remove bearing cage first, then apply JB on outer edge of crack? Or do I try to pry crack open with bearing cage off and put inside of crack. With bearing cage on you can see the split or crack widen as you tighten screw.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Prop Shaft bearing cage

Actually, any epoxy will do and super glue might even be better.
If I were going to try super-glue, or even epoxy, I would glue it while it is on the gearcase; tighten the screw to spread the crack, apply the glue and let it suck in, or in the case of epoxy, press it in, and then loosen the screw to close the crack. After the glue sets, re-tighten.Perhaps the thicker gap filling super glue would be best--I dont know, you need to judge the crack and see whether the thick stuff will suck in.

If you try to physically spread the crack with a screwdriver or other tool, chances are relatively good that you are going to break it off. I would not attempt that.

Be aware that in a part like this, it is possible that no glue will help. The only sure cure is to replace the gland.

Regarding my PM: I did look at the gearcase I have and it is in poor condition, with a broken skeg and chipped cavitation/ventilation plate. I would not sell it in that condition, so perhaps I will salvage the rear gland out of it. I will let you know in a PM. I am going to want your first born male child though! LOL

 

[noah4009]

Re: Prop Shaft bearing cage

Regarding my PM: I did look at the gearcase I have and it is in poor condition, with a broken skeg and chipped cavitation/ventilation plate. I would not sell it in that condition, so perhaps I will salvage the rear gland out of it. I will let you know in a PM. I am going to want your first born male child though! LOL

I'm trying to give him away. (LOL)