prop unit seal replacement gone bad

[hippie28]

I have a 1988 evinrude 9.9 mod# E10RCCD ser#712933 . I had a heck of a time getting the 1st seal out and in the process of getting #2 out (which still isn't out) all these little pins like watchband pins fell out of the gearcase bearing assembly. So 1st whats the trick to get the 2nd seal out ? 2nd , where do those pins go ? They arent listed in the clymer manual for the gearcase assembly.Thanks for your time in advance.

 

[OBJ]

Re: prop unit seal replacement gone bad

Well hippie....what ya' did, somehow, was to knock out the needle bearings in the outer prop shaft bearing. Forget about getting them back in. You will need to replace the bearing.<br /><br />The trick to getting the seals out is to have the right puller which is probably not listed in the Clymers. Do yerself a favor and get a OEM service manual. The Clymers and other generic manuals are good for general repairs. But when it gets down and dirty, only an OEM manual will do.<br /><br />I'm taking it for granted that either you were trying to knock out the seals with a screw driver or with a hook seal puller. The hook seal puller will work but you have to be very careful not to gouge the walls where the seal sets. Replacing the new bearing can be done with a press and a socket of the right size. Sometimes mm sockets work when SAE sockets won't.<br /><br />Last resort, take it to your local mech and have him do it. But if you intend on doing it yourself, get the new manual. Keep us posted. Thanks!!

 

[hippie28]

Re: prop unit seal replacement gone bad

Any idea on where to get the OEM manual.Ive been searching the web and all I can find is solec and the clymers I have.

 

[Hooty]

Re: prop unit seal replacement gone bad

Give this a try.<br /><br /> OMC Manual <br /><br />c/6<br /><br />Hooty

 

[Captain Frog]

Re: prop unit seal replacement gone bad

To Hippie 28 I also bought a clymers manual for my 75 Johnson 15 hp, and found it left a lot to be desired. I noticed white grease coming from just in front of the prop when I started it up with muffs yesterday. Would this be the same problem you had? If so can someone tell me what parts I need to order?

 

[clanton]

Re: prop unit seal replacement gone bad

Did you take the prop shaft bearing housing out of the gear case?

 

[Captain Frog]

Re: prop unit seal replacement gone bad

To clanton, I haven't done anything to my prop since I don't know if I need to or not. I can only assume the white grease shouldn't be there. If this is a bad seal,is it advisable for a novice [me] to attempt repair, or should I just break down and take it to a pro?

 

[clanton]

Re: prop unit seal replacement gone bad

Hippie28, If you did not bend or knock chunks out of the bearing race, just put the watchband pins back into the race, with grease to hold them in place until you install the housing over the prop shaft.<br /><br />Captain Frog, I would not change anything until I pressure tested the gear case, and found the leak. <br /><br />Both engines, If the prop shaft seals are burnt, the engine probley needs the water tube grommet under the powerhead replaced, not enough water being pumped thru engine.

 

[BF]

Re: prop unit seal replacement gone bad

==============<br />Both engines, If the prop shaft seals are burnt, the engine probley needs the water tube grommet under the powerhead replaced, not enough water being pumped thru engine.<br />==============<br /><br />Could you explain this a bit? Why would poor water flow -> prop shaft seal damage? If you're saying that engine coolant water is needed to cool/lubricate prop shaft seals, how do engines without thru the hub exhaust manage to keep seals intact?<br /><br />Thanks... just trying to learn something.<br /><br />Brent

 

[Captain Frog]

Re: prop unit seal replacement gone bad

Clanton, Is there a way I can "pressure test" myself without any special tools? I do own a air compressor. Thank you for your patience with a "newbie" like me. I don't want to screw something up by jumping in blindly.

 

[rrichard]

Re: prop unit seal replacement gone bad

I think an air compressor is going to put too much pressure on the gearcase. You only want to hold 5-10psi for a couple minutes. <br /><br />Here's what I do: Get an oil fill kit that has the hand-pump, fill tube, and screw-in attachment. Go to the hardware store and get a schrader valve with a threaded end. Remove the fill tube from the hand-pump and attach the valve to the tube at that end. Attach a bicycle pump with a pressure guage built-in to the valve, and the other end of the tube to the gearcase fill hole. Now you can submerge the gearcase in water, pump a little air into it and note where the bubbles come out.

 

[BF]

Re: prop unit seal replacement gone bad

I pressure tested my LU last weekend... used a presure gauge, some small tubing, a 4 way stopcock, syringe and a small rubber stopper.<br /><br />Drilled a hole through the stopper the right size to just poke through the stiff walled tubing, sealed with RV sealant and attached it to stopcock. attached another port of stopcock to the pressure gauge. Put stopper in drain opening and used a 20 cc syringe to inject air into the LU (from stopcock). Lay LU in kiddie pool. In about 3 seconds determined the seal at the base of the water pump was no good. (my LU had been getting water in it). My LU wouldn't really hold pressure, but each syringe of air cause a cloud of bubbles.<br /><br />I re-did the water pump, retested and saw it held 10 psi, and now all is well.<br /><br />HTH<br /><br />Brent