Propeller for tubing/wakeboarding 2003 Regal 1800 LSR

[dhdeanha]

I've been boating this summer, and hit a huge rock that took a blade from my propeller. I am looking for a new propeller for the purposes of tubing and wakeboarding. The boat is 18 feet, 4.3L Mercruiser previously with a 14.25" x 21 P 3 blade propeller. My RPMs currently are around 5400 - 5800 and the recommended range is 4400 - 4800.

I have two questions:

What kind of propeller should I purchase? I think I want a 4 blade instead of a 3 blade to get that better hole shot for tubing/wakeboarding. Since my RPMs are a bit high, I might not change the pitch at all and keep it at around 21. I'm not sure about cupped propellers but the two propellers I'm looking at are

• 120 - 260 hp I/O 4 blade 14" x 20P LH https://discountboatpropellers.com/shop/mariner-mercruiser-mercury/120-260-hp-io-4-blade/

• 150 - 280 hp O/B 4 blade 14" x 20PLHhttps://discountboatpropellers.com/shop/mariner-mercruiser-mercury/150-280-hp-ob-4-blade/

I don't know my current horsepower of the engine so once I find that out I'll go pull the trigger on that specific propeller. Unless, there are better recommendations than the two propellers above, I'll be open to suggestions.
---------------------------------
Should I consider getting trim tabs? Since I have a 18 foot boat I may be considering getting them because I read that it makes your boat feel longer.

Thanks for your consideration and apologies to the moderators/admins for spamming them so much.

Images:

 

[porscheguy]

For starters, your RPMs aren't that high, you're tach is off. The 4.3 v6 would tear itself to pieces at 5400-5800.

Your engine is a 4.3TKS. It's rated at 190hp. Ive got the same exact engine.

You need to replace your anodes ASAP. All that corrosion on your drive is due to wasted anodes.

You should pull that drive and get it to a shop to see if they can repair the cavitation plate. Also inspect for any damage from your prop strike. You've got to hit something hard to shear a blade off stainless.

Your ratio is most likely 1.81.

One of the props you've linked to is a left hand prop, you need right hand.

I've never heard of this brand of prop until just now. As a rule I have an aversion to spending money on anything online if the seller can't be bothered to show pics of the item they're selling. It's laziness.

this prop you're looking at is plastic. You'll notice a significant reduction in performance from your stainless(at least prior to its destruction.). I would not recommend a plastic prop regardless of how they hype up its performance.

You can get an aluminum 3 or 4 blade prop from quicksilver/Mercury. I would stick to a 21P. The only good thing my 21p aluminum prop does well is accelerate. And if you search, you can find lower prices on them.

Do you boat in an area with lots of rocks, or was this a freak accident? Do you have a chart plotter/depth finder?

To summarize:
1. Have the outdrive inspected for damage, and see if cavitation plate can be repaired.
2. REPLACE the anodes.
3. Get an aluminum prop from mercury/quicksilver.

 

[Scott Danforth]

my guess from the pics.....you dug in the mud, picked up a huge rock, busted your anti-cav plate and wrecked your prop.

my guess is you also toasted the prop shaft because damage like that to a stainless prop means something else is damaged.

• fix your tach
• remove your drive, inspect the prop shaft, get the anti-cav plate re-welded, soda blast the drive, repaint it, replace all your anodes
• for tubing and wakeboarding, nothing special needed for a prop. a good 19P 4-blade or a good 21p 3-blade will be fine.

 

[dhdeanha]

Do you guys know what kind of anodes I should get (Zinc, Aluminum, etc)?

One of the props you've linked to is a left hand prop, you need right hand.

So generally speaking if my engine rotation is left, the propeller rotation I should buy is right, correct?

 

[QBhoy]

Yeah...tach is totally wrong by the sounds of it. As mentioned likely drive ratio is 1.81 and the normal prop would be assumed as 21" for all round and 23" for cruising and top end.
A 19" would likely very easily over Rev. Suggest sticking to a 21. Many have found good all round watersport capability with the high 5. I'm not a fan and like with any stainless....if this is likely to happen again...don't bother. Stick to a black max 21 or a cheapo 4 blade (if it's a big diameter you might get away with going down a pitch...but watch the top end)
Get the tacho fixed first and see what the revs are doing.
As for the anodes. If you are in the sea...zinc. If you are in the fresh..magnesium.
Generally the replacement and OEM fit is dual purpose aluminium. These are the norm and will do both fairly well.

 

[QBhoy]

Also looks like either your drive is acting as an anode for your prop...or if it's kept at a marina...the earthing is not good of the jetties.
More likely is that your anodes are that worn...your drive is corroding.

 

[dhdeanha]

Here's my proposal, I'll take the boat out next week with a shiny new propeller and anodes. If the boat works as before, I will do nothing about it. I'm not completely sure if the captivation plate was broken prior to the hit so I won't be doing much when I test it. If not, I'll buy another outboard for $900 found on craigslist. I'm not going to fix the tach, due to speed not being my main priority. I'll put trust in you guys having the engine run fine. If the 21 pitch has worked for the 2 years I owned it, it should not be a problem. Now my only concern is getting a 19 pitch or a 21 pitch, leaning towards 21. This boat is definitely not my final boat, it's more like the $2000 car some parents would buy their children when they first become a driver.

 

[porscheguy]

You're in NJ? Try nuwave marine.

 

[dhdeanha]

My engine rotation is left, what rotation should I buy my propeller: left or right?

 

[porscheguy]

You need a right hand prop. As a rule, most single engine boats have right hand props. Left hand props tend to be on boats with two engines that counter rotate.