Proper Carburetor adjustment

Dan01543

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Hi I have a 1996 volvo penta 5.0fl pncs motor with a holly 2bbl carburetor. There are 2 screws 1 on each side of the carburetor.with each screw turned all the way in until each screw stops.how many full turns out do they need to be for my motor to be running correctly without being to lean or to rich. Or could someone on here get me close. Someone else has already told me but im having a hard time understanding what they meant. If someone has a easier way or can get me close to the proper adjustment I'd greatly appreciate it.ill be on the water all weekend.thank you dan
 

kenny nunez

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A Holley is happy at 1.5 turns from lightly seated. Maybe 1/4 either way. Any radical amounts to try and correct a problem means something else is wrong. Quite often the gasket under the metering block has shrunken and uncovers some other metered passages.
 

Scott Danforth

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1.5 turns out is a starting point

using an unlit propane torch and motor at idle, on the trailer in the water and in gear, make your fine adjustments

if you add a bit of propane to the air stream and the motor RPM raises a bit, you need to back each screw off slightly (and evenly)

if you add a bit of propane to the air stream and the motor just slightly starts to drop in RPM. you are perfect.

if you add a bit of propane to the air stream and the motor drops a fair amount in RPM, turn the screws in a bit.

then set RPM using the screw on the linkage stop.
 

Dan01543

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Ok so my motor is running hot and my risers get pretty hot I was told I could be to lean.i have a brand new raw water sea pump, I did a bellow and gimbal bearing last weekend so everything is new including the water line,I got a new gasket where the inspection cover is on the outdrive 4 little bolts. I have brand new manifolds and risers along with new gaskets. When I take the coolant hose going from the pump to the motor I have excellent flow and I did check with a clear hose for air and I have none.my exhaust flappers where found in the bottom of my y pipe when I replaced the exhaust bellow so I pulled them out they were melted and Corroded.i got my new ones today and will install them but other than that my cooling system is completely clean and open right now but things are still getting hot.so what else could it be?
 

alldodge

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Belay that, just looked up your motor and you have closed cooling
 

Lou C

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However on a Volvo the exhaust is still raw water cooled even with closed cooling
How did the water passages in the manifolds & elbows look? If they are starting to clog time to replace.
 

Dan01543

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Which gaskets did you use between mans and elbows?
The ones I used are the ones that came with the manifolds and risers. But it's all from GLM.but the gaskets that go between the manifolds and risers were exactly the same as the old ones that were on there when I took them apart.
 

Dan01543

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Belay that, just looked up your motor and you have closed cooling
I have no closed cooling anywhere on that motor at all. When I bought the boat there was no coolant tank or anything that was with the motor.
 

alldodge

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I have no closed cooling anywhere on that motor at all. When I bought the boat there was no coolant tank or anything that was with the motor.
OK, how hot is hot?
Can you keep your had on elbows, or if not how long?
 

Dan01543

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so I can keep my hand on the top of the riser for about 5 seconds. But I did read that if my rubber bellows going from the risers to the exhaust pipe or why pipe. If it was to hot they would be smoking and there not. But I need to get a IR temp gun to better know how hot they are getting so I can post it on here
 

alldodge

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If you can do it that long in the water your probably ok. My port elbow gets hotter then the starboard also. If your testing on a hose then they will get hotter
 

Dan01543

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However on a Volvo the exhaust is still raw water cooled even with closed cooling
How did the water passages in the manifolds & elbows look? If they are starting to clog time to replace.
Both sides and manifolds and risers are brand new with brand new gaskets. My circulating pump is brand new as well and that's the one on the front of the motor. My raw water sea pump is brand new as well I did the air test where u take a clear hose and hook it up to the raw water pump to see if I'm sucking air and no bubbles or anything. I did this with the entire motor and everything looked fine nowhere did I see any air bubbles in the clear hose. I also back flushed from the raw water sea pump all the way back and water was coming out from the center of the propeller.
 

Scott Danforth

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VP recommends changing the impeller ever 3 years and inspecting annually
 

Dan01543

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If you can do it that long in the water your probably ok. My port elbow gets hotter then the starboard also. If your testing on a hose then they will get hotter

VP recommends changing the impeller ever 3 years and inspecting annually
So I got a brand new raw sea water pump it's only a month old and I did hook up a clear hose to see if I'm sucking air from anywhere and im not. No air bubbles what so ever. I have it in the water now and I ran the motor at idle speed for 10 minutes to get to the other side of the marina and I could feel that my engine cover was warm. Not hot but warm. So this is why I'm asking so many questions because I don't want to keep running my motor and end up melting something or even ruin the motor because it got to hot.but my temperature gauge stays at 160° and doesn't go above 160°sometimes it's drops below 160 for a little bit but not by much. Every cooling line is completely free of any debris.
 
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