Pulling fuel tank advice needed

film842

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Mar 6, 2010
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98
Damn that's a long tank. I decided that I need to pull the fuel tank from my 1986 Capri 2150 and have a look at it for two reasons. One is that I am in the process of replacing a bit of rotten floor anyway and also because I've heard of these old tanks leaking on some models.

So in order to get that tank out of there, do I have to cut away the front portion of the engine well or does it somehow lever out of there with no cutting? Or any other advice?

Don't know if anybody has an answer for this, but thought I'd give it a try before I whip out the saw. Thanks.

IMG_2896_.jpg
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Re: Pulling fuel tank advice needed

you will have to keep cutting.
 

Fun Times

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Re: Pulling fuel tank advice needed

you will have to keep cutting.
It sure looks like it.:(

Let's get your thread moved over to the right forum section to see if some of our boat restoration professionals can help guide you along. Good luck.:)
 

eboat85

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Sep 1, 2013
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Re: Pulling fuel tank advice needed

That one is in there tight!
I have about four inches of clearance on the sides and end of mine and it is still stuck to the floor from the flotation foam. I was thinking that if you could free it you might be able to slide it out but the fittings look to be in the way. Possibly you could notch the well to get them through. Otherwise, I would have to vote with the others, time to cut.
 

jerryjerry05

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Re: Pulling fuel tank advice needed

Some are "foamed in" you're not gonna be able to tilt it unless you cut one end or the other.
The bow end looks like it would be easier to replace?
If it's EVER been in salt water then I'd take it out and check the bottom.
I bought a center console in 88
It took 2 years and it started leaking gas.
Turns out some a-hole dropped a stainless screw in the area that held the tank.Then installed the tank over it.
It was replaced at the dealer took 1 month.
The salt water will eat holes in the aluminized steel.
It did it after 20 years on the same boat.
I got rid of that one and bought the same boat with a good tank.It lasted 6mo and rotted through that tank too.
Luckily I have enough room for a tank under the console.
I installed a 35 gal tank. Plenty of gas for where I fish.
 

film842

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Re: Pulling fuel tank advice needed

Thanks for the replies guys..very helpful, especially the USCG pamphlet. There's just no way in hell that I'm going to drive that boat around wondering if the fuel tank is going to leak. So, it's definitely coming out and only going back in if I'm absolutely convinced that it's sound. Frankly I don't expect it to be so I've been giving some thought to a replacement. Sounds like plastic is the answer.

That existing tank is 55 gallons and is bigger than I think I need. My fishing is going to be in the Oregon coastal bays and short runs out into the ocean. My little 4 cylinder Volvo Penta isn't going to use that much gas so....maybe a 35 or 40 gallon size would work.

I'll post a couple of pics of thank when I get it out just for general education. Thanks again.
 

jigngrub

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Mar 19, 2011
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Re: Pulling fuel tank advice needed

When you get your tank out take it and have it pressure tested, if it passes you'll be good to go.
 

eboat85

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Sep 1, 2013
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Re: Pulling fuel tank advice needed

After reading a ton of posts and feeling the same way about "when is it going to leak", not if, I am pulling mine to convert the area to a storage and use a transom tank. If you are thinking about downsizing you could put a new tank in and change the layout so it is easier to service in the future. Just a thought.
 

film842

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Fuel tank out - should I paint it?

Fuel tank out - should I paint it?

Removed the fuel tank from my '86 Bayliner 2150 Capri and it was not near as much fun as you would think. However, the tank looks pretty good. No obvious pitting...mostly discoloration. It wasn't leaking but I pulled it anyway to check it since it's an old tank. And yes, I'm going to pressure test it since I have it out anyway.

Now that I have it out, should I be painting it or anything? Does anyone know if there is an exterior coating which might help extend it's life?

IMG_2906_.jpgIMG_2910_.jpg
 

Fireman431

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Sep 17, 2007
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Re: Fuel tank out - should I paint it?

Re: Fuel tank out - should I paint it?

Painting isn't necessary. I recently read an article about aluminum boats and that painting (aside from government contract rules) is purely cosmetic.

Get it completely clean, make sure its got no water in it, reinstall it, and bond it properly with a ground wire which is also connected to an anode.
 

chriscraft254

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Re: Fuel tank out - should I paint it?

Re: Fuel tank out - should I paint it?

I would coal tar epoxy it or get it rhino lined before re-installing. Aluminum, especially that old can and will pit over time if any moisture is constantly on it. If your foaming it in, definitely coat it.
 
Last edited:

WIMUSKY

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Re: Fuel tank out - should I paint it?

Re: Fuel tank out - should I paint it?

It's aluminum, leave it........
 

12vMan

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Re: Fuel tank out - should I paint it?

Re: Fuel tank out - should I paint it?

If the exterior doesn't show any signs of deterioration, I would also say make sure there's no moisture in the tank, clean it up and re-install.
 

dingbat

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Re: Fuel tank out - should I paint it?

Re: Fuel tank out - should I paint it?

Aluminum gets it corrosion protection from a thin layer of aluminum oxide on it's surface and exposure to oxygen is an essential for the formation of the oxide layer.

Any cuts, nick or leaks in the coating that allows moisture to leech under the coating, outside the presence of oxygen, can/will lead to catastrophic failures.
 

funk6294

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Apr 26, 2009
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Re: Fuel tank out - should I paint it?

Re: Fuel tank out - should I paint it?

I share your pain! Just went through this in my boat. I examined several options, and there are new boat manufacturers that are linex coating new aluminum tanks. I was going to go this route until linex quoted me between 6-800 to coat the tank. They needed to clean it, then prime with a good primer to ensure that it stuck to the tank. The coal tar coating appears to be a good option and apparently has been used below the water line to protect metal hulls. After getting an extremely good deal on coating my current tank from a friend I ended up with bed liner. Additionally I made sure to seal up the tank coffin really well to help ensure water did not get back in. Water trapped between the tank supports and the tank will cause it to rot.
 

DCinVA

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Jun 26, 2013
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Re: Fuel tank out - should I paint it?

Re: Fuel tank out - should I paint it?

Excellent post on the importance of bonding.
Also a good point about pitting occurring where the tanks are foamed in place.
I think since you went through all that trouble to remove them, I would clean them up and encapsulate them in a layer of fiberglass mat. You will never need to worry about them again.

Dave
 

chriscraft254

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Re: Fuel tank out - should I paint it?

Re: Fuel tank out - should I paint it?

Fiberglass mat is not impervious to water.
Excellent post on the importance of bonding.
Also a good point about pitting occurring where the tanks are foamed in place.
I think since you went through all that trouble to remove them, I would clean them up and encapsulate them in a layer of fiberglass mat. You will never need to worry about them again.

Dave
 

crabby captain john

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Re: Fuel tank out - should I paint it?

Re: Fuel tank out - should I paint it?

If clean and no imperfections just put it back,,,,
 

Fireman431

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Re: Fuel tank out - should I paint it?

Re: Fuel tank out - should I paint it?

I did the research for you. Here is the advice on the fuel tank....from the aluminum fuel tank experts:

Tanks installation | installation and Maintenance Repair


Any Aluminum tank should be mounted so that moisture will not collect on any surface. One of the most common mistakes is mounting a boat tank on a sheet of plywood, foam, rubber or some other material that absorbs moisture. Ideally the tank should have air circulating around it on all sides including the top and bottom. To allow air under the tank requires using brackets that raise the tank above the mounting surface. Another common mistake is foaming the tank in. There are Federal Regulations and American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) standards that must be met to foam in a boat tank. One of the most significant of these is that the foam must bond tightly to the surfaces of the tank. This is to prevent any moisture from collecting between the foam and the boat tank wall.


If a tank is mounted properly, easy to get to and inspect, it will probably last 20 to 25 years without leaking.


Problems with boat tanks are primarily problems of improper installation, not the material itself for tanks - aluminum. Properly installed, aluminum boat tanks will usually outlast the life of the powerboat.
For under the deck replacing Boat Tanks, tanks should not be just sitting on a bare plywood deck. They should be supported at intervals which allow air flow around the tank.

You may need to build frames under the boat depending on the amount of the span between stringers. Use wood shims on the inside of the stringers if necessary to guide it into the right position. If the Boat tank is more than two feet wide, not recommend this, simply Install the frames before glassing. For mounting the deck - The best method is to fasten heavy, fir ledger strips to the side of the stringers. Its probably best to cross bolt through the stringers rather than using screws, if possible. That this has to withstand the weight of the fuel with the boat slamming, so you need to make them very strong. Then heavily fiberglass or epoxy the ledger strips so they dont rot and set the fully glassed deck on top.

The Next step, you will need at least two tubes of 3M 5200 adhesive sealant, and you will literally glue the plastic strips to the tank bottom . Apply the adhesive so that the entire surface of the plastic is coated with 3M 5200 adhesive and will not leave any gaps or crevices for water to get into.

Allow 24 hours for the 3M Marine 5200 Adhesive Sealant to set up before setting the tank in the correct place.

The Next step, apply two 1/4" wide beads of 3M 5200 Adhesive Sealant along the length of each strips/plastic/ that are now glued to the tank bottom .Note, the strips do not get fully bedded, because fuel tanks expand and contract as they are filled and emptied and depending on temperature.

important rules:

• Never allow salt water and absorbent material to come in contact with the Aluminum tank.

• Make sure that straps or whatever securing devices you use don't cause crevice corrosion.

• Do not use rubber strips which is cathodic to aluminum and will cause galvanic corrosion.

•Do not use plain steel - galvanized only.

•It is the best to use only stainless steel pipe fittings for the fuel supply. Do not mix a variety of metals.

• Make sure that wherever the tank is sitting on is a flat stable surface, always use the hull stringers and never the bottom of the boat hull.
• Boat Tank should not be so deep in bilge that its going to be in constant contact with bilge water or salt water.


Tanks corrosion | Aluminum
Aluminum is self-protecting material , so long as the surface gets adequate air exposure. Severe corrosion is almost always caused by water plus a lack of oxygen. As long as the aluminum fuel tank has a good airflow around all surfaces, contact with water, fresh and salt, will not damage it or a very long time.


Aluminum Tanks are very corrosion resistant, and mostly affected by salt water and other corrosives found in the marine environment.


Aluminum Fuel tanks don't corrode because they get wet, tanks corrode because at some point something is in contact with the tank that traps water between it and the tank. The average life of an aluminum tank is 15-20 years.
Tanks should be stored empty, or if being stored for max a few months, co-inhibitors and stabilizers can be added to the fuel to prevent phase separation.

If you store the tank this way, it should be completely enough.



Aluminum Boat Tanks, Paint Or Not!?
The painting process for aluminum is so-complex that painting a fuel tank is simply not worth the trouble, If the metal is kept dry and clean the oxide will reform and again protect the aluminium. For this reason aluminum boat tanks are generally NOT painted.

In fact "aluminum boat tanks are almost never painted"!
 
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