Push button start with kill switch on 1989 Evinrude 50hp

thakang67

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Mar 1, 2011
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Hello to all. I'm constantly replacing my ignition switch on my boat and I'm really getting sick of it! I've bought inexpensive and expensive switches but after about 2-3 months they go bad. I want to install a push button start and kill switch. Do any of you have any ideas and the best way to do this. Any comments/help will be greatly appreciated
 

jakedaawg

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Just out of curiosity, have you tried an honest to goodness OEM switch? If it only last a month or two you have other issues that a push button set up will not solve.
 

thakang67

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Jakedaawg, yes I have, please fill me in on some of the issues that I may be overlooking. Thank you this is really frustrating.
 

jakedaawg

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Well, switches are allergic to water. They have a drain hole, that needs to be down. They also need to mounted in a sensible manner to keep as much rain and water out as possible. If there is no way to mount it sensibly then you need to keep it covered.

They also don't like high resistance or over voltage. Do you have a voltmeter installed and how high does it go after running for an hour? What general shape is the boat and wiring harness in? Are connections clean and tight? Are there wire nuts and repairs all over the length of the harness?

A cobbled to gether ignition system can do it in a jiffy. If there is high resistance then there is heat.
 

jakedaawg

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When you look at the wiring under the hood can you see the wire coming out of the insulation in places? That sort of thing. Things need to be "right and decent". It all works together. Kinda get what I mean?
 

thakang67

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Jake yes I do. Thank you very much! I will be going over everything this weekend and give you an update. The water getting in the switch is probably the culprit, seeing that my pontoon is outdoors and switch is in the elements(SW Florida), This time of year rains every day. Again Thank you!!!
 

thakang67

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Jake, I have gone over everything and all looks pretty good but switch will not turn the motor over. I can turn the key to the on position and jump it off at the starter but again not with the key switch. Any suggestions?
 

racerone

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Checked the nuetral only start switch in the control box ??--Picture of control box.
 

jakedaawg

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^^^^ what he said. The yellow with red stripe wire. Key switch ---> neutral safety switch---> small post on solenoid.

With yellow/Red stripe wires disconnected place an ohmeter on each end (at switch and solenoid) while in neutral. You should have continuity.
 

thakang67

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Thank you both will take pictures tomorrow and maybe we together can figure this out. Jake, unfortunately, my key switch is supposed to be a 5-pin but
W. marine guy didn't have one so he said that a 6-pin would work to just not use one of the pins? Could that be the problem?
Also Not sure if this is the right forum to be on but I'll ask the question anyways...my motor evinrude 1989 vro (that's disconnected) with power tilt/trim. How much does it weigh? The 18' 1960 lowes had an 48 Lark on it. I assume that my 50 will be ok. Suggestions, concerns, comments are always welcome.
Again Thank you
 

jakedaawg

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It'll be fine as far as motor on boat.

Switch issue is probably a wiring misplacement.
 

jakedaawg

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Let's get some pics.

1. Not so close up of back of switch.

2. Close up of back of switch that shows any marks or letters next to posts.

3. Pic of instruction sheet or wiring diagram that came with switch.

4. Sales guy that sold you the wrong switch so we know who not to buy from next time. Lol
 

thakang67

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Mar 1, 2011
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My control box Control Box.jpg My old key switch Key switch.jpg Have to run an errand when I get back I will take pictures of the back of switch that's in the control box and the solenoid...
 

jakedaawg

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I think we are going to have some issues with the pic size.

Instead of pic maybe you could say what markings there are near each post. What make of switch is it? I may have one here I can peek at and get you going in the right direction. I don't recall ever using the wrong switch in a side mount control as there would be a fitment issue I would think.
 

thakang67

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If pictures are hard to see I'm just now learning how to re size them for the site, not really pc literate, lol. If you are comfortable with it I could send them to you via cell, promise not to blow your phone up or bother you
 

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jakedaawg

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what letters do you have next to each post on the switch you want to try? I cant see the pics. My phone wont be any help.
 

jakedaawg

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Have you done post 8 and post 9. That needs to be done before we worry about wireing up a switch.
 

thakang67

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Continuity at solenoid good but not at safety switch if I'm doing it right. I believe it's bad. After looking at a lot of wiring diagrams I'm pretty positive the key switch is wired properly. I will get a new safety switch and install over the next couple days and let you know how it goes. I want to install a temp gauge and a tach gauge but not sure how to do it. I will figure out how to upload bigger pictures so that you can see what i'm dealing with. Thank you so much for your guidance, I will talk with you soon.
 

jakedaawg

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Continuity at solenoid good but not at safety switch if I'm doing it right. I believe it's bad. After looking at a lot of wiring diagrams I'm pretty positive the key switch is wired properly. I will get a new safety switch and install over the next couple days and let you know how it goes. I want to install a temp gauge and a tach gauge but not sure how to do it. I will figure out how to upload bigger pictures so that you can see what i'm dealing with. Thank you so much for your guidance, I will talk with you soon.

That does not make sense.

To test neutral safety switch simply unplug the two wires coming from it. Place in netral position and test for continuity. This verifies only the switch, not the wires to and from.
 
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