Re: question 4 mile high mariner
W'dog: I did some similar work on a 2.5 liter Porsche 944 motor a number of years back, and I thought to give it a try with my boat engine, with the appropriate nods given to the differences in operational application.<br /><br />We're starting with boring and honing; the amount that my machinist will shave the cylinders, I'm leaving to him; we're after a ~10.0:1 compression ratio, so we're targeting a specific combustion chamber volume. We're going to evaluate a couple of vendors for different piston heights to boost the compression, which is a bit higher than the 9.3:1 ratio posted by Mercruiser for the new TKS 3.0s, higher than the ServMan spec of 9.25:1 for my motor (why do they quote the same CR for the 3.0L and the 3.0LX?) and higher than the compression ratio posted for the new 3.0L GM base marine engine (9.2:1). I chose 10.0 because I don't want to spend the cash to rebuild my engine and not have an appreciable boost in output, and then, on top of that, have to remember some odd figure for the compression ratio!

Actually, I don't really understand how essentially (no, ACTUALLY) the same engine can produce LESS power with a higher compression ratio - the calculation is NOT rocket science, and it's pretty simple to see that a drop of 0.1 on the ratio should not equate to a gain of 5 hp, but a nominally perceptible DROP in output. The configuration of the pistons has a great deal to do with it, but THESE ARE, ASSUMABLY, THE EXACT SAME MOTORS!<br /><br />I'm leaning toward Sealed Power piston hardware, as it is readily available for my application and offers the precision and specificity I am looking for(I am, at heart, a scientist; my chief career has been in medical science and technology); I could put more money into it by using stuff like Keith Black or Federal Mogul/SpeedPro hypereutetic pistons (Mercruiser uses hypereutetic pistons in some of their high-output engines), a clearance crank and Scat rods and such, but I'm not looking to race this motor, only boost the output by ~30%. I'm going to try to achieve the perfect balance of power, reliability and servicability without spending more than a similar boat with a bigger engine would cost - every man's vision quest when it comes to his machines. Besides, flat pistons yield better flame travel than domed, so I'll likely stick with flat-tops.<br /><br />I'm not sure about the cam yet. Obviously, I want something hotter than stock, but remember - I'm looking to balance higher performance with this motor's renowned "little engine that could" economy and bullet-proof servicability (properly maintained, of course). Talk of seamless bearings, HP lifters and alloy rods is being tossed around, and I'll pick and choose the best mix for my targeted goal.<br /><br />The head will definitely be treated to upgraded valves and seats and we'll do some porting work to smooth out the flow. Roller rockers to replace the stamped originals are a must, and the rest of the moving hardware (springs/bearing/etc.) will be considered with their contribution to the whole.<br /><br />Sorry I can't be more specific, but I haven't finished ironing out my shopping list, and I keep batting away the nagging urge to splurge. I want to build up a motor that is stronger, more powerful and as economical to run as a stock 3.0, yet is accessible to any guy on this forum who wants MORE POWER (nod to Tim Allen, there) without having to spend the kids' tuition money to achieve it. In other words, I'm trying to end up with a motor that puts out ~150-160 hp, normally aspirated, that costs less than $3500 to build from the 3.0L GM L4 you already have in your boat. This niches it neatly between the stock 3.0L's 115-135 hp and the 190 hp output of the stock carb'd 4.3L V6.<br /><br />Now, about the forced-induction version, that's another story.....
