question on "Generic boat wiring diagram by Silvertip"

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What does "12 V from Nav/Anchor Switch" mean. Please be as specific as posible. Also, what his a "Nav/Anchor Switch
Thanks"
 

JB

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Re: question on

That means 12v from the switch that operates the navigation and anchor lights. That is when you want the instruments lighted also.
 

Silvertip

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The NAV and ANCHOR lights are the red/green light at the bow and white light at the stern of a boat. When anchored or stationary, you should switch to the ANCHOR position. That lights only the stern light. When you are moving, the switch should be in the NAV position. That alerts other boaters that you are underway. The dash lights should be connected to the NAV side of the switch. The dash lights will be off at anchor to minimize power consumption.
 

Dunaruna

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[colour=blue]Just to throw a small spanner in the works - I like my dash lights seperately switched to (sometimes) minimise night blindness.
 

Laddies

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Re: question on

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Dunaruna, most dashlights come on with ign. if so then on the back of most there is a jumper from the powerwire to the light terminal, to make them operate seperately you will need to remove the jumper and install a jumper from one guage to anouther and back to a switch
 

Silvertip

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Re: question on

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Instrument back lighting is a personal preference. That line can certainly be powered by ignition switched +12V, the NAV/ANCHOR switch, or a separate switch. I prefer the NAV setting as there is no need to have the lights on during daytime running. When night fishing, anchored for hours, there is also no need to to have those lights on so it simply reduces start battery drain and eliminates one switch.
 

Dunaruna

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[colour=blue]Laddies, that's exactly what I've done.
 
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further question on which terminal on the Ignition Switch does the wire from the "12 V from Nav/Anchor Switch" go to? I see Bat, ST(starter), Ing (ignition), and MAG. By the way, what is MAG?
 

Silvertip

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You are confused. Look at the schematic -- right side and you will see a blue wire that says "+12V from NAV/ANCHOR Switch". That connection was just discussed above. Although two or three opinions were voiced as to how the dash lights should be wired, my diagram shows them being powered via the blue wire from the NAV/ANCHOR switch (specifically the NAV position on the switch). Since conserving battery power is always a good idea, with this scheme, when you are anchored for example, there is no need to have the dash lights consuming power since you aren't looking at them anyway. When you get underway again, you are supposed to flip the switch to NAV so both the stern and bow lights come on. When you do that you also turn on the dash lights so its also a visual reminder for you. The NAV/ANCHOR switch gets its power from the fuse panel and there is no connection to the ignition switch.
The RED wire says "+12V from Ignition switch". Gauges like the tach, fuel, voltmeter, temp gauge, trim gauge, are electronic and therefore must be turned on and off. That's done automatically when you turn the key on. Hence the term "+12V swtiched". MAG stands for "magneto" (another name for ignition). Before I answer the question about the ignition switch, are you sure that switch is original? It should have an ACC (accessory) terminal that has 12Volts on it when the key is on. That terminal feeds the red wire on my schematic. The +12V terminal is the INPUT to the switch from the engine wire harness. It would hot all the time. Is your boat an I/O by any chance?
 

Silvertip

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Here is a schematic for a NAV/ANCHOR switch. The +12V line at the left is from the fuse panel. This switch is the switch I shown on the schematic but it is shown graphically since there are a couple of different types of these switches. The one below can me made from a simple ON-OFF-ON switch and garden variety diode from Radio Shack for just a buck or two. The switch is explained on the diagram.
Nav-AnchorSwitch.jpg
 

Silvertip

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Here is a typical two-stroke outboard ignition switch. If you have a four stroke or an inboard, the switch will be different. Note that this one has the ACC position where yours does not.

OutboardIgnitionSwitch.jpg
 

seahorse5

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Silvertip said:
Here is a typical two-stroke outboard ignition switch. If you have a four stroke or an inboard, the switch will be different. Note that this one has the ACC position where yours does not.

OutboardIgnitionSwitch.jpg



The wiring color is wrong on the choke circuit. It should be purple/white stripe, NOT black/yellow stripe.
 

Silvertip

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No need to do the "quote thing". Just use the "Add Reply" button. This is a Merc switch and colors were taken right off the harness it was connected to. It was an example of a two stroke ignition switch -- wire colors were not pertinent to the discussion.
 
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I've looked at a few ignition switches at West Marine store and I see 2 M's, S, B, and an I. Why does your diagram not show an I. The package says I stands for ignition that goes to the ignition on the outboard.

Also why two M's.
 

backyard mechanic

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Re: question on "Generic boat wiring diagram by Silvertip"

Re: question on "Generic boat wiring diagram by Silvertip"

Scuba please take no offense here but it seems you need to take a closer look at electrical system instruction. Besides the electrical load and guage of wire issues, colors can be deceiving too. Especially when standard wire codes may have been altered by uninformed wiring jockies. It's good you are willing to learn and do your own wiring but be cautious and do it right. There are wiring books out there; may I suggest you get one and read up before proceeding with your project. Then trace your systems and KNOW what you are hooking up. Come trouble shoot time, it'll be a breeze.

For example; If you are looking to make the wire from the gas tank sender longer it may have been replaced with a red/black/white or green wire. Any of those colors could present a problem if put on the wrong side of the guage. Getting pink wire (the correct color for fuel sender) is no small feat either.

Point... learn about wire guage, the standard wiring code for boats, making watertight connections and wiring up switches etc before you get hurt or someone else does on the account of the uninformed doing wiring jobs.
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: question on "Generic boat wiring diagram by Silvertip"

Re: question on "Generic boat wiring diagram by Silvertip"

boy, this is an old one.
 

backyard mechanic

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Re: question on "Generic boat wiring diagram by Silvertip"

Re: question on "Generic boat wiring diagram by Silvertip"

Yes... I am new to the forum and didn't se that "date" stamp Oh well...... I hope he did get help. :)
 

waterinthefuel

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Re: question on "Generic boat wiring diagram by Silvertip"

Re: question on "Generic boat wiring diagram by Silvertip"

Diggin' up bones.......I'm diggin' up bones.........too many threads that are never left alone lone lone lone.....resurrecting memories of the threads that are dead and gone......I'm just sittin' at home diggin' up bones.....
 
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