Questions about 87 3.0 Distributor with Petronix Ignitor Setup

hoowahfun

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Hey everyone, I've been working on a new to me boat to get up and running that has an 87 3.0 Merc in it. I installed a new starter this past weekend and while checking if it would turn over noticed some puffing/backfiring through the carb (twice) and through the exhaust in the outdrive once. Figured the timing was off so I got around to looking at the distributor today and found that the previous owner had installed the Petronix ignitor conversion. I have a basic and somewhat limited understanding of how this setup works, seeing as how this is the first motor I've ever worked on that wasn't a full electronic ignition system.

A few things I noticed are that it was a little dirty inside when I pulled the cap off, so I figure at a minimum clean that up. Next, the tab thing that contacts the underside of the cap where the coil wire comes in has a hole in it, and just beneath the tab looked suspect, but I have no idea what it's supposed to look like new. On the underside of the black piece holding the tab something looked a little damaged, but can't be sure. See photos. There were also two places that the red wire was split open between the grommet and the module and one place the black wire was pinched. Would it be acceptable to just wrap this with electrical tape or liquid tape? Or maybe splice the wire? Would like to avoid buying a new module if possible. Finally, the location on the distributor base for the grommet is right next to the engine block, forcing the wires to rub together. Can this be rotated 90 degrees CC to get this off the block??

The other thing I'm not sure about is how in the world do I set the timing on this since there are no points, dwell, etc? Again, I'm new to distributors so sorry for some of the dumb questions. I wasn't able to make much sense of some of posts I read through my searches or the service manual since the pics were bad.

Let me know your thoughts on what you see, and thanks for the help!
 

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hoowahfun

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Looks like most of the pics loaded in sideways, but aren't that way in the original. Sorry about that not sure how to fix it.
 

Scott Danforth

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you set timing like any other dizzy, loosen the clamp, turn the dizzy to get the timing set, then tighten clamp

electrical tape will be fine to repair the wire

pull the dizzy and index it. I would get motor to TDC on #1, then locate dizzy the way you want and re-index your plug wires

the pertronix simply replace the points with an electronic magnet trigger
 

hoowahfun

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So when you say loosen the clamp, is there a clamp at the bottom of the base that lets you turn it? Would this also be how you remove the distributor as well? I didn't notice it last night, but it was getting dark so I couldn't do much with it. Your thoughts on indexing sounds exactly what I am looking to do so I can get those wires off the block. I'll try to look at this tonight if time and weather permit to get a better idea of what's going on.
 

hoowahfun

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No Title

Thanks Scott, that link helped a lot. I also found the clamp you were referring to, just needed a 9/16 wrench to loosen the bolt and rotated the distributor base. I proceeded to rotate the crank to set the timing, then noticed the rotor wasn't spinning properly. After fiddling with it for a few minutes I took the clamp off and pulled the distributor out and found my real problem. The gear on the shaft was chewed up on one side. I looked down the hole and spun the crank around and found that the gear inside the block is somewhat damaged as well. Any idea on how hard that gear is to get to? Is it accessible from the side cover on the block behind the distributor? Also the distributor shaft had a little play vertically where the gear and shaft would slide up and down about 1/16"....is that a problem or normal? See photos. (They turned sideways again, not sure what's up with that).
 

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Scott Danforth

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You need a new distributor gear. The gear in the block is the cam. So if that is worn, you will need a new cam too
 

hoowahfun

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Nevermind I think I see the problem, it's not the timing gear on the cam its a gear that's actually part of the cam itself.
 

hoowahfun

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So could the vertical play in the distributor shaft be the cause of the chewed up gears, or is that a symptom? Or is it normal and not significant?
 

Scott Danforth

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vertical play in distributor shaft is bad bushings in the distributor
 

stonyloam

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In theory the cam should be harder than the distributor gear (it may be brass) so the cam should be OK. You should be able to just replace the gear.
 

hoowahfun

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In theory the cam should be harder than the distributor gear (it may be brass) so the cam should be OK. You should be able to just replace the gear.

Yeah I need to look closer at the cam gear. I noticed a little bit of damage on the gear but didn't rotate it all the way around to get an overall idea of how bad it is. It may just be slight damage and I could still use it since it's just driving the distributor. Not sure about that approach, but I'd hate to have to replace the cam for just the distributor.

The cam gear looks to be part of the casting that was machined down...the distributor gear looked to be a softer steel.
 

Scott Danforth

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both are cast iron. the dizzy gear is simply smaller and would theoretically wear more.
 

hoowahfun

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It is replaceable, drive out the roll pin and pull it off.

I'm mostly concerned about the cam gear. I found a gear for the distributor for $50 and a whole distributor for $70. I've also got some play in the shaft where it moves about 1/16" up and down, but I can't find a part number for the bushing to replace it so it looks like it might be better to replace the whole thing. That still leaves me with trying to determine the condition and usability of the existing camshaft.
 

Scott Danforth

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bronze dizzy gears are $50, steel $35

I would get a whole new dizzy

GM dizzy bushings are GM dizzy bushings. see your local napa
 
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