Quicksilver/Mercury 3000 throttle only button will not depress

[zheka]

Please bear my boating language, as I've been a boater for only 2 days.

My boat stalled, and I might've panicked, and broken the throttle only button, while trying to start it, by giving it a bit gas, so it starts. The button ended up being pressed in, and the boat wouldn't crank at all. I tried shifting full forward, full reverse, but the button would not depress, and boat would not crank. I took the control box apart, and connected the 2 wires that go into the control box, and the motor cranks, so there is definitely something wrong with the sifter control box.

I've been researching all kids of forums, and google searching, and most people say to just replace the control box, instead of messing with existing. I tried to figure out how that throttle only works, and what exactly is broken. Looking at the schematics (attached), it almost seems like the Throttle‑only shaft (6) is either missing, or part of it is missing, but I also can't depress from the opposite side, having the control box open. Not sure if the Gear shift pin (5) needs to be aligned somehow within the Shift gear (8), for it to depress, or it's fully jammed.

I'd be willing to replace the broken part, if you guys think it is, but I'm also considering buying new control box.

As I was looking for a replacement control box, next issue I'm running into, is the replacement next model uses Gen 2 cables, instead of current Gen 1 cables, which means I also need to buy replacement cables, and I can't seem to figure out the length, without taking out existing cables. Anybody would know the length of the throttle cable for '98 Bayliner Capri 1600?

What are you thoughts on this? I would appreciate any help, steering my into the right direction, to get it back on the water.

 

[alldodge]

Assuming you have the 3000 panel mount, and there are 2 designs for it
There are also 2 designs for the cable controls

 

[alldodge]

More

 

[zheka]

More

Thank you. I should've mentioned in the previous post, I have the schematic. it's the Commander Classic Design II, and my numbers for parts in initial post mentioned was from that schematic (attached)

 

[alldodge]

The pin should align with part 8 when button is out. When pushed IN it disengages the shift cable
Part 6 if missing may have broke and fallen out

 

[zheka]

The pin should align with part 8 when button is out. When pushed IN it disengages the shift cable
Part 6 if missing may have broke and fallen out

Looking through the spring, it appears part 6 is metal, when looking online for a part, it looks like it's all plastic. It doesn't appear it's missing, but I can't seem to confirm either, because the part 5 pin, does seem to be going through something, which I believe is part 6, which is the throttle only shaft. I have 2 pictures attached. One form the back side, and one from the sifter lever side.

 

[alldodge]

I'm unable to discern from the pic would should be there

 

[zheka]

I'm unable to discern from the pic would should be there

What would be my next step? Buying whole new one, and replacing both cables, since it would need to be gen 2? Or what else?

 

[alldodge]

Don't have an answer because I would need to have a better understanding of the problems. The pics posted don't give me an understanding of the problem.

The neutral button is spring loaded, and when pushed in the throttle arm (item 16) is disengaged. The pin rides on the outside of the piece until it comes back to neutral where the pin drops back in.

Need to understand why the pin does not spring back in and button pop back out

 

[zheka]

Don't have an answer because I would need to have a better understanding of the problems. The pics posted don't give me an understanding of the problem.

The neutral button is spring loaded, and when pushed in the throttle arm (item 16) is disengaged. The pin rides on the outside of the piece until it comes back to neutral where the pin drops back in.

Need to understand why the pin does not spring back in and button pop back out

Does this video help? (Google Photos Direct Link)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/UhJG5LTzYSZAFEH89

 

[cranberrybanshee]

I'm working on my Throttle Only button this week too - those "just scrap it and buy a new one" posts all over the place aren't very encouraging. So far I've repaired a broken (#6 equivalent), put it all back together, had it work perfectly on the bench, then stop working once installed.

This might help:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B1TAvwZ3TjhfZDJiNjc5YzAtYzBhYy00MjlmLTg5NzktMjQyZ DJhMGQ3YzQ1/edit?pli=1

If your problem is anything like mine, you're working with parts that have very little tolerance and have to fit exactly in the right place within a fraction of a fraction of an inch. Its possible that you've broken a small piece and then torqued or twisted something while trying to get it to start after stalling.

Some things to consider:
- The Throttle Only button absolutely will not depress unless the gearing is in true neutral.
- The Throttle Only shaft is made up of several moving parts which have to be aligned correctly as well.
- The electric start will not fire unless the safety switch is registering true neutral.
- If it's already broken, there's no harm in taking it apart completely before ordering a new one.

 

[zheka]

I'm working on my Throttle Only button this week too - those "just scrap it and buy a new one" posts all over the place aren't very encouraging. So far I've repaired a broken (#6 equivalent), put it all back together, had it work perfectly on the bench, then stop working once installed.

This might help:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B1TAvwZ3TjhfZDJiNjc5YzAtYzBhYy00MjlmLTg5NzktMjQyZ DJhMGQ3YzQ1/edit?pli=1

If your problem is anything like mine, you're working with parts that have very little tolerance and have to fit exactly in the right place within a fraction of a fraction of an inch. Its possible that you've broken a small piece and then torqued or twisted something while trying to get it to start after stalling.

Some things to consider:
- The Throttle Only button absolutely will not depress unless the gearing is in true neutral.
- The Throttle Only shaft is made up of several moving parts which have to be aligned correctly as well.
- The electric start will not fire unless the safety switch is registering true neutral.
- If it's already broken, there's no harm in taking it apart completely before ordering a new one.

Are you able to see my video from previous post, what I'm missing? I've been looking through that manual several time, and can't figure out what I'm missing. How can I tell it's in true neutral position? How can manually put it in true neutral position?

 

[cranberrybanshee]

Doesn't seem likely that something is missing. More likely something is broken or bent. Have you disassembled the T.O. shaft to make sure all parts are in tact?

I can see your video, looks like this is an indicator of the neutral position of your handle shaft (part #11)

 

[alldodge]

Does this video help? (Google Photos Direct Link)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/UhJG5LTzYSZAFEH89

Watching the action shows there is partial disconnect but not full between shift and throttle. First movement shows shift moves and when at full WOT the throttle starts to move.

In throttle only, part 5 needs to move out and away from part 8

 

[cranberrybanshee]

Watching the action shows there is partial disconnect but not full between shift and throttle. First movement shows shift moves and when at full WOT the throttle starts to move.

In throttle only, part 5 needs to move out and away from part 8

If this is the issue, it sounds like a detent adjustment may be needed.

If the T.O. button not depressing is the issue, I suggest beginning by taking apart the T.O. shaft.

Step 1) Observe manual.
Step 2) Disassemble and clean all parts.

 

[zheka]

Doesn't seem likely that something is missing. More likely something is broken or bent. Have you disassembled the T.O. shaft to make sure all parts are in tact?

I can see your video, looks like this is an indicator of the neutral position of your handle shaft (part #11)

Thank you so much for the help so far, to both of you.

I am disassembling everything right now, but I got to step 16 (screenshot attached), but can't seem to separate the shift gear from the control handle shaft. I tried lightly with a screwdriver right where it supposed to be separated, but I think if I push and spin the screwdriver harder, it will shave the metal off. I did remove the spring ring, from step before, but not sure why it's not coming out so easily.

Any trick on getting shift gear out?

 

[zheka]

I finally got it all disassembled, and the Handle shaft (part 11), has a large grove, that the ball bearing is stuck inside.

Also I noticed, actual Control housing, where Handle shaft with Shift gear go, there is a grove inside. Both vertical and horizontal. Is that normal? I uploaded schematic, circled where exactly that grove is.

 

[cranberrybanshee]

Nice work! I'd bet $$ those grooves are contributing to your problem, if not causing it - that's a lot of wear on those parts, and the parts around it probably moved to compensate. If it were me, I'd replace parts 5,6,8,10, and 11. If you're handy, you may be able to repair the housing by welding and filing the grooves back to proper, but again your tolerance is pretty small. Might be best to replace the housing also. After all that though, there's still no guarantee that's the only problem. Good luck, bud!

 

[zheka]

Just to update on my issue. I ended up buying a replacement control box. It was hard finding mercury 3000 that would work with Gen I cables, so I got The Volvo 3812074 Concealed Side Mount Control Box. Which is universal control box by Volvo Penta, that will work on all cables except Mercury Gen II cables.

It was a straight up easy install, and I ended up keeping my existing Gen I cables.