PlayD0h
Petty Officer 1st Class
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2009
- Messages
- 326
Hi everyone.
I have a 196X-198X fiberglass boat that was my 1st boat, and I just got a Starcraft 16 SS, so I figured I'd sell ole "Sput-Nick"
The floor was rotten, and I cant sell a boat with a rotten/unsafe deck. Although the guy who sold me the boat didn't share that opinion. Bastich! lol I finally got the nerve to cut the deck up and have a look at what "Wood-Hell" looks like. As fully-expected the wood was pulp in the rear half, and the rest is frozen sponge-wood. Its all gone, save a lil patch at the bow area bulk-head.
This is when I first got started
The stringer is completely junk, and all rounded off on top. To my chagrin it looks like its tapered the entire length, yet I haven't pulled out a level, or taken a good look at the parts of it I pulled up. I had to lay the boots to the stringer after I made some cross-cuts, as the ice had a good grip. It warmed up to 50 F, 10 C this week but a couple weeks ago it was -25 F, -32 C, so the ice was strong. Just enough 'melt' on it to give me a chance.
I had thought about doing only 3/4 of the deck and leaving the bow section, yet it not worth it to do a 1/2 *****ed job. Or as I was joking to myself today, "1/2 Aft Job". lol. I didn't know my Aft from my Elbow when I bought this boat 4ish years ago, yet thanks to this site and its many members, I know enough now to fix it right.
Even when I was buying my resin and glass supplies the salesmen said,
"You've either done this before, or had very good instruction"
I was too in a hurry to tell him how, but I should have just said "Iboats" and let him find this gem if he didn't know about it.
So this is the end of Day 2
Now I've opened the "Can of worms" of 'What wood do I use?'. Yet I'm selling this boat, so I don't want to put too much in to it, cause I probably wont get it back. When I bought it, it was Orange/Red, had a windshield and cover. The cover is heavy, but it got torn to hell in the back 1/4 - 1/2. The same storm while traveling incident broke the windshield.
However its a fairly small area, 2 sheets should do, so I think it might be worth the $50 or less to get best or high Quality, Marine ply-wood, yet I haven't even seen local prices of wood available, so that will determine what I use for wood. Arauco sounds like a winner for what I'm looking at, yet I'm not sure I can get it locally.
Question. It looks like the deck needs to be beveled on the sides on the bow angled section to sit nicely directly on the hull. The hull isn't the strongest and I was amazed by how thin it feels, and I can only stand on the chines and keel or I'm sure I'd crack/damage the glass.
I (think) I read that DozerII (Glen) suggested using a belt sander while fitting the deck, in the context of making adjustments to get a perfect fit. Am I right about that technique? Just not sure if I got what he said/suggested, although it sounds right. I can do a fairly good job with a table-saw, but I don't know how 'straight' the angles are.
I have a 196X-198X fiberglass boat that was my 1st boat, and I just got a Starcraft 16 SS, so I figured I'd sell ole "Sput-Nick"
The floor was rotten, and I cant sell a boat with a rotten/unsafe deck. Although the guy who sold me the boat didn't share that opinion. Bastich! lol I finally got the nerve to cut the deck up and have a look at what "Wood-Hell" looks like. As fully-expected the wood was pulp in the rear half, and the rest is frozen sponge-wood. Its all gone, save a lil patch at the bow area bulk-head.
This is when I first got started
The stringer is completely junk, and all rounded off on top. To my chagrin it looks like its tapered the entire length, yet I haven't pulled out a level, or taken a good look at the parts of it I pulled up. I had to lay the boots to the stringer after I made some cross-cuts, as the ice had a good grip. It warmed up to 50 F, 10 C this week but a couple weeks ago it was -25 F, -32 C, so the ice was strong. Just enough 'melt' on it to give me a chance.
I had thought about doing only 3/4 of the deck and leaving the bow section, yet it not worth it to do a 1/2 *****ed job. Or as I was joking to myself today, "1/2 Aft Job". lol. I didn't know my Aft from my Elbow when I bought this boat 4ish years ago, yet thanks to this site and its many members, I know enough now to fix it right.
Even when I was buying my resin and glass supplies the salesmen said,
"You've either done this before, or had very good instruction"
I was too in a hurry to tell him how, but I should have just said "Iboats" and let him find this gem if he didn't know about it.
So this is the end of Day 2
Now I've opened the "Can of worms" of 'What wood do I use?'. Yet I'm selling this boat, so I don't want to put too much in to it, cause I probably wont get it back. When I bought it, it was Orange/Red, had a windshield and cover. The cover is heavy, but it got torn to hell in the back 1/4 - 1/2. The same storm while traveling incident broke the windshield.
However its a fairly small area, 2 sheets should do, so I think it might be worth the $50 or less to get best or high Quality, Marine ply-wood, yet I haven't even seen local prices of wood available, so that will determine what I use for wood. Arauco sounds like a winner for what I'm looking at, yet I'm not sure I can get it locally.
Question. It looks like the deck needs to be beveled on the sides on the bow angled section to sit nicely directly on the hull. The hull isn't the strongest and I was amazed by how thin it feels, and I can only stand on the chines and keel or I'm sure I'd crack/damage the glass.
I (think) I read that DozerII (Glen) suggested using a belt sander while fitting the deck, in the context of making adjustments to get a perfect fit. Am I right about that technique? Just not sure if I got what he said/suggested, although it sounds right. I can do a fairly good job with a table-saw, but I don't know how 'straight' the angles are.
