Re- Rewiring boat

[matt167]

My boat in my signature was powered by a 1966 Johnson 40hp Deluxe, and previous owners had wired it as they saw fit, which was done right in some ways and not in others. They put in a disconnect switch, and half of their electrical bypassed it, but the motor used it at least. I never quite figured out how it worked until I de rigged the 40hp.. The disconnect switches the negative, but the power still came off the battery. That's why half of their electrical bypassed it. I added bilge pump wiring and aux wiring up to the dash when I redid the boat originally

Now that I have the new DF25A, I'm trying to clean this up a little, but I'm debating what to do. I bought a new 4 circuit Blue Sea Systems fuse box as that's all I think I need, and I have a 10 place negative buss bar, and I think a 10 place buss bar under the dash from the first time I fixed wiring ( installed bilge pump ).. Do I connect the negative side of the motor to the disconnect switch? The manual does not cover anything about a disconnect switch. I will terminate all positive connections that currently go to the battery, to one of the 4 circuits and provide a wire of adaquate size to go to the battery. Could I hook the disconnect between the battery and the negative buss bar? Leave the motor connections seperate from the disconnect, but everything else would go live by turning the switch

 

[matt167]

I was tidying the wiring to the new controller up tonight after work, and noticed. Yeah the wiring for the battery is a rats nest.

I think my plan of action is to switch the negative buss with the disconnect switch, and have the motor as a separate connection to the battery. Everything will end up neat and tidy and I'll have 2 positive and 2 negative connections on the battery.

 

[matt167]

What are the best push pull type switches that are available? Something that is 'classic looking'? The 1/4 turn switches for my Nav/ anchor lights were 'goobered' when I bought the boat. The wires are soldered directly to the contacts which were broken or cut off for some reason. I am going to put in new switches being I'm doing it all over and I think push/ pull switches will work good

 

[alldodge]

Don't know which are better, plan to replace some my self. I would look for current rating. Their are many that look great but won't last because of the rating

 

[matt167]

I wonder how many amps 4 light bulbs would take? Probably under 5a I would think. The bulb for the Nav light I think is halogen though

 

[alldodge]

If its halogen change to LED. Normally not halogen

 

[alldodge]

If your using 14 awg wire use at least a 10 amp but

 

[matt167]

I put a brand new nav light on the bow to replace the original that was falling apart. The bulb does not look normal

 

[dingbat]

I wonder how many amps 4 light bulbs would take?

Watts / Volts = Amps

 

[matt167]

Watts / Volts = Amps

I know, I was just guessing without looking at all the bulbs

 

[poconojoe]

I changed whatever I could over to LED.
Less current draw, very bright and they last almost forever.

I found equivalent LED bulbs for mostly every fixture on the boat. Direct replacements and no drivers or any other wiring woes.

 

[matt167]

Well, My new wiring works great, except the lights don't work. Figures. I remember the previous owners said they had trouble with the switches but got them working.

I ordered Cole Hersse SPST push pull switches and will run new wiring. They are rated at 10A which should be more than enough.. I see though, that some of the switches which look nicer are rated at 1A. These Cole Hersse look classic though, and I'm sure I could actually use the original 1/4 turn knobs on the new switches if I want to

 

[alldodge]

Note. If your using led they have a plus and minus sides

 

[matt167]

Note. If your using led they have a plus and minus sides

Currently all filiment type. I think the goobered switches are just switched off for good. One jumps power to the other

 

[matt167]

Should these switches be wired this way? Currently, or the way it DID work, is the navigation lights came on when you turned the left switch on, and the anchor light came on with the right switch, BUT, the right switch got power from the left switch when it was in the ON position. So the anchor light could only be on with the NAV lights..

The regulation says that at anchor, the white mast head needs to be visible for one mile on a clear dark night.. Does the nav lights need to be turned off? I mean this is a 14' runabout, realistically I'm not going to anchor in this boat for an overnight stay. But I want it right in case I do

 

[alldodge]

Left/Right means nothing to me.
Normally there is one switch with a center position which is OFF
One direction turns Nav and anchor lights ON
The other direction turns only the anchor light on

 

[alldodge]

I like wiring without diodes but can be done with

 

[matt167]

Ok, so my boat was wired backwards from what was needed.. As long as the anchor light gets the power source, and the navigation lights feed from that switch, it will be as it should be. This is my janky MS paint diagram. My wiring is neater with a fuse block and 2 negative buss bars. But this is pretty much what I need to do with the push pull switches, I think

 

[matt167]

All switches in, wiring is good, tested working. May take it out tomorrow but I'm not sure