usually the wire size is designed to carry the current you need for the accessories. A 14AWG wire can carry 15Amps, a 12 AWG wire carries 20Amps.
On your boat, unless you have a power wench, you should be able to get away with 14 AWG wire. if you are boating in salt water, you might consider using marine-grade wire. it is superior to auto wiring. If you cannot create a gas and water-tight crimp, solder all critical conections. Fuse the accesssories properly.
The 1st table appears to be an old copy from the National Electrical Code. 60? C insulation has been obsolete for many years, the standard is now 90? C.Here is a wire gage selection table that I found while doing some research for my little project.
" http://www.submarineboat.com/sub/wiring.html "
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Here I'll save you the trouble. This is a screen capture from ABYC Std. 11 appendix X that lists the 3% voltage drop over distance for various loads.Yes the 2nd table is what I have been going by, I realize I didn't discriminate between the 2 tables other then the name. I honestly didn't know to much about the first table myself so I didn't bother with it. Thanks for pointing that out Wire2. I am thinking about making a table like that to go on my site, it's a handy thing to have.
I was thinking of breakers but i wanted to put all the switch's on one panel.Hey I wouldn't even begin to think about using anything but marine wire, someone said something about using auto stuff and trying to seal it .
Don't bother if it needs fixing do it right. The amount of extra money spent is real small.
Use shrink connectors and dielectic grease, also don't forget wire loom and tie straps to secure it.
If you have a boat that doesn't include a cabin with house systems your only talking about a little money and what good is your wiring if it doesn't work?
Also think about splurging on marine breakers instead of fuses.