Re-wiring Trolling Motor

[echo690]

I would like to remove the standard plug from my trolling motor setup. I have a Motor Guide Wireless 55 trolling motor. This is my plan any suggestions or negatives to the idea would be appreciated.

The boat is 16 foot aluminum with dual batteries at the rear of the boat. One cranking and one deep cycle. The current wiring is 8 gauge marine grade, this is the original setup from the manufacture.Currently the trolling motor has not circuit protection only a barrier strip where the wring from the deep cycle battery to the female plug.

I want to add a 50 amp thermal circuit breaker near the trolling motor as per recommended by Motor Guide. After the circuit breaker us a 50 amp Sealed Automotive Relay With Diode to a Illuminating Contura Switch, SPST, On/Off rated for 20 amps. Then wire the trolling motor to the relay. I would route all wires through the deck using Ancor wire seal connectors. Everything else would be below in a hatch except for the switch. I would mount the switch where the current female plug is located. I use this boat for both hunting and fishing and would like to have the least amount of wires and plugs exposed to getting stepped on or broken. I have added some picture for reference in photobucket. The link is below.

http://http://s660.photobucket.com/albums/uu328/echo690/Boat%20Trolling%20Motor/



Thanks in advance.
Jack

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Re-wiring Trolling Motor

I see a number of issues with the original setup as well as what you want to do. You asked so here's my take:

1) The barrier strip is in a storage area, the boat is metal, and the barrier strip is unprotected and not even fastened down. Anything metal that touches the terminals will be immediately welded and the wiring goes up in smoke.
2) The circuit breaker for the motor needs to go at the POS terminal battery -- not close to the motor. The breaker needs to protect the entire circuit, not just the motor. If you put the breaker near the motor and a short occurs across the barrier strip for example, the boat still goes up in smoke. Motorguide is very wrong if they really want the breaker close to the motor.
3) The trolling motor plug is much more weather resistant than any switch that will get kicked, stepped on, and bumped by hunting gear. If weather proofing is an issue for you, there are a number of weatherproof connectors available.
4) Using a switch and relay, although electrically ok, it is overkill in this application and will probably cause more issues than the standard setup.
5) If you really want a switch, there are a number of battery disconnect switches that would eliminate the need for the relay and switch.

In my view you are making work and adding potentially troublesome components to what is a fairly bullet proof system.

 

[echo690]

Re: Re-wiring Trolling Motor

Thanks Silvertip,

I at the very minumum I want to remove the barrier strip and add the circuit breaker. This is the way it came and i didn't think it was good option.

Can i just remove the barrier strip and use butt connectors with heat shrink in place of the barrier strip and put the circuit break back near the battery.

I will consider a battery disconnect switch in the hatch.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Re-wiring Trolling Motor

By all means you can use butt splices. My suggestion would be to use the water proof variety and before splicing, slip a couple of layers of heat shriink over the wires so you can apply the heat shring tubing over the splices to provide even greater protection.

 

[echo690]

Re: Re-wiring Trolling Motor

That's the plan then.

Thanks for the help!!!

 

[John_S]

Re: Re-wiring Trolling Motor

Here is what the Wireless manual says:

Circuit Protection ? MotorGuide recommends installing a 50 amp manual-reset circuit breaker and power switch in line with the trolling motor positive leads within (1.8 m) 72 inches of the battery(s). To order a circuit breaker kit, contact your local Service Dealer, request kit number MM5870.


I agree with Silvertp, it should be as close to the battery as possible.