ready to rebuild, sealant/gasket questions

h_lankford

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Aug 6, 2005
Messages
135
1985 Johnson 60 hp, 3 cyl. Have remanufactured powerhead, new bolts, gaskets, water pump to begin installation this weekend. Do I have enough sealants?<br /><br />Gasket Eliminator for metal to metal such as where the new water pump plate bolts to the lower unit, or the flange of entire lower unit when bolting it to the leg. What about Three Bond Liquid Gasket 1104 for same? Are either of these what I can use instead of OMC adhesive M? <br /><br />Gasket sealer ("peanut butter") for certain gaskets and certain bolt threads.<br /><br />Loctite 271 threadlocker for stator area screws<br /><br />I know not to use sealer on carb gaskets for fear of contaminating the reeds, but should I use the spray-on gasket sealer on the intake manifold gasket when I reattach the reed boxes themselves?<br /><br />Thanks! Harvey
 

DHPMARINE

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Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
3,688
Re: ready to rebuild, sealant/gasket questions

the only item I see that is needed is thread locker on the stator screws.I use Ultralock,after using Loctite primer.ALL intake gaskets dry.No seal on gearcase to exhaust housing.<br /><br />DHP
 

rodbolt

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Sep 1, 2003
Messages
20,066
Re: ready to rebuild, sealant/gasket questions

I dont reccomend 271 on that small a fastener. if ya get a good seal it may be locked forever. I usually use 242 or gel seal on the stator screws. <br /> only sealents I use are perfect seal,AKA BRP gasket maker, the BRP equivalent of adhesive M, 3M super yellow weatherstrip adhesive is an acceptable subsitute. and gel seal. or the loc-tite equivalent of gel seal. cant think of the number off hand. I also use a pipe sealant with teflon on bolt threads to help keep the corrosion worms at bay.
 

Walker

Captain
Joined
Jun 15, 2002
Messages
3,085
Re: ready to rebuild, sealant/gasket questions

The waterpump plate should have a gasket that goes under it and the joint between the lower unit and the leg needs no sealer at all.
 

Joe Reeves

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Feb 24, 2002
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13,262
Re: ready to rebuild, sealant/gasket questions

(Gasket Sealers)<br />(Usually available at any reliable automotive parts type store)<br />(J. Reeves)<br /><br />Do Not use any type of sealer on outboard carburetor or intake manifold gaskets as this would cause blockage of various fuel/air passageways. Also, there are new type gaskets, including head gaskets, which are used through out the engines that are coated with a substance that gives a shinny appearance to them. These gaskets are coated with a self sealer and are to be installed as is.... no sealers! Older style head and fuel related gaskets that are not coated with this substance are to be simply coated with oil.... nothing else.<br /> <br />All other gaskets (hopefully I've not overlooked anything above) should be coated with Gasket Sealer (the type that comes in a can that has a small brush in its screw off cap). This also pertains to some water pump installations that use a gasket between the plate and the lower unit housing.<br /> <br />Marprox Sealer 1000 or OMC Adhesive or Boat Armor Sealer 1000 (same substance) should be used on any metal to metal or metal to plastic surface (such as impeller hsg to plate) to eliminate air leaks. It should also be used on the Spaghetti tubing that is used on many powerhead crankcase halves, lower unit skegs, etc. I have found that this substance works quite well on various "O" Rings such as what are found on lower unit carrier and upper driveshaft bearing housings (Note that this substance is obviously not to be used on all "O" Rings).<br /> <br />DO NOT use any sealer on the large "O" Rings that are used on the upper and lower crankcase heads (The housing/heads that slide over the top and bottom of the crankshaft). On those "O" Rings, use only a coating of grease.<br /> <br />The exception of surface to surface contacts pertains to the later model matching crankcase (block) halves (which does not incorporate spaghetti tubing) which call for "Gel-Seal", or any other surface that calls for Gel-Seal. This substance seals in the absense of air, and if called for, must be used. One other form of Gel Seal that can be substituted is "Loctite #518". Nothing else that I know of will do!<br /><br />I advise against using silicone or permatex on a outboard engine. It simply will not function properly. The exception to this (as per OMC's recommendation), is to use the black Permatex (heavily) on the gasket 306242 which seperates the inner exhaust tube from the exhaust housing on the 1959 35hp and 1960 to 1970 40hp OMC outboards.
 

h_lankford

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 6, 2005
Messages
135
Re: ready to rebuild, sealant/gasket questions

thank you all for the advice. will start assembly.
 

h_lankford

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 6, 2005
Messages
135
Re: ready to rebuild, sealant/gasket questions

Joe, please advise<br /><br />you stated<br /><br />"there are new type gaskets, including head gaskets, which are used through out the engines that are coated with a substance that gives a shinny appearance to them. These gaskets are coated with a self sealer and are to be installed as is.... no sealers"<br /><br />so there I was, 70 miles away, with a new gasket to place between the powerhead and the exhaust adaptor. This new gasket was slightly tacky, not what I would call slick or shiny, except maybe one corner of it. I wondered if this was the coating you mentioned. I was not sure. So I went by my original manual instructions and lightly coated both sides of the gasket with traditional "peanut butter" gasket sealer. Had no trouble setting the powerhead down with the hoist, and did not seem to have any gasket slippage. Torqued down the new bolts. All looks good. <br /><br />Then I reread your comments. Gulp! Will the gasket sealer dissolve or otherwise damage the new gasket?<br />Thanks for your advice. Harvey.
 

Joe Reeves

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Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: ready to rebuild, sealant/gasket questions

I think you'll be fine Harvey. Nine or ten years down the road, should a small leak show up, well then, I guess you just have to redo that job.<br /><br />Seriously, that double coating happens occasionally but doesn't seem to hurt anything. It's just that it's not needed.
 
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