Re: rebuilding and not getting soaked
I'm not big on V-4s myself, but fortunetly there's lots here who are. I'm sure they'll be along.<br /><br />These blocks have cast iron sleeves cast into them, with plenty of salvage. So all you need to do is rebore and fit larger pistons. In cases of extreme damage, it's possible to bore out the entire sleeve and press in a new one. But that's more expensive of course.<br /><br />The entire outboard engine needs to be disassembled for a rebuild job. Carbs, reeds, flywheel, starter, head, all need to come off, and then you need to split the crankcase in two. Only then will you be looking at the rod bolts.<br /><br />I strongly suggest you locate a machine shop that regularly does outboards. There's some critical details that need to be done that an automotive shop won't know about. Ask them if they relieve the port edges themselves, and undercut the material at the bottom of the cylinder. If they look at you funny, walk away.<br /><br />I wouldn't start the job myself without the factory service manual in hand. You can get one from:<br />kencook.com<br />maxrules.com<br />marineengine.com<br />theoutboardwizard.bizhosting.com<br />(price is pretty much the same)<br />There's a couple on ebay right now (one $20). Search for:<br />(115, 115hp) (evinrude, johnson) manual 1975<br />Its for an Evinrude, but that's the same as the Johnson.<br /><br />You may wish to replace the con-rod bearing needles as a part of your rebuild. If you don't though, when you tear down keep all your bearings in sets along with the rods. Number everything.<br /><br />PS - are you sure it needs to be rebuilt? I wouldn't be certain until I pulled the heads and checked out the cylinders.
