rebuilding carbs

1983 ercoa 21'

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Whats the best way to remove and install the soft plug covering the jets?
what's the best tools to use on this ?
any helpful tips besides making sure everything is clean ?
 

emdsapmgr

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Dec 9, 2005
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What model, year, hp engine are you working on? The jets are not found behind these plugs.
 
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1983 ercoa 21'

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I thought I read somewhere the idle circuits where behind the soft plugs on the side of the carbs ? Guess they are called circuits not jets? On v4 and v6 carbs used from early 70s to the 90s
 

pro-crastinator

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Removing the aluminum plugs (cant remember their proper name) requires you to destroy them.

I use a sharpened steel awl that I smack with a small striking tool to pierce the aluminum dome of the plug.
Use the awl to pop out the plug.
easy peasy.
 

1983 ercoa 21'

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That's getting it out what's the best way too install them back and is any type of sealant needed?
 

wrench 3

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I've had trouble getting the awl though some of the plugs so I switched to a small drill bit with a stop on it to stop it going in too far. And then use the awl or a small punch to pry the plug out.
Don't use any sealer on the plug. You don't want to chance it plugging up an orifice. Install the plug and tap it close to flat with a large punch. If you're a good shot you could use a small ball-peen hammer but I don't trust myself that much.
 

emdsapmgr

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What's your end game here? Are you following a factory service manual for carb overhaul or do you actually have a blockage behind one of these core plugs? Are you sure you can't clean the passages thoroughly without removing the plugs? I've always been able to- without removing them. (Despite what the factory manual may show.) If you do remove them, you should use a special sealant which is impervious to gas, or the core plug can leak air/fuel. Product called Gasoila. That's the product used by the factory-(the slight discoloration around each plug.)
 

1983 ercoa 21'

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I have cleaned many of these type of carbs and have never removed the plugs. I'm going through a motor that's been sitting awhile and I'm just wanting to make sure I get everything nice and clean. It seem in the past when I clean my carbs on previous motors. Every start to the season just to be safe. It seems I have had a few that didn't always idle or was really cold natured so I kinda felt like I should have pulled them soft plus and cleaned them . It's always what you can't see that gets ya.
 

pro-crastinator

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That's getting it out what's the best way too install them back and is any type of sealant needed?

WHen I pop my new ones back in, I drip a drop of some laquer based sealant around the edges just for giggles.
I suppose any sealant will do, just dont get crazy with it. Many dont use anything and get great results.
 

gm280

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Jun 26, 2011
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I had a carb that was giving me a problem, even after rebuilding it. So I removed the welch plugs with the usual awl and there was particles and dirt underneath that welch plug. So I clean it again with more spray carb cleaner and compressed air. Assembly was easy with a mere flat punch tapping in the new welch plug and nearly flattened it again. No leaks or anything else and the carb does run good now. I've clean many carbs over the years and never removed the welch plugs before and those carbs work flawlessly. But this carb was different. So it is up to the person and how the carb responds to the usual cleaning methods. JMHO!
 

tomhath

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Dec 5, 2007
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Removing the aluminum plugs (cant remember their proper name) requires you to destroy them.

I use a sharpened steel awl that I smack with a small striking tool to pierce the aluminum dome of the plug.
Use the awl to pop out the plug.
easy peasy.

Any decent carburetor kit includes replacement plugs (called either welch, core, freeze, or expansion plugs). I've found flakes of varnish and other junk behind them so it's worth taking a couple of minutes to clean out behind it if you buy a kit.
 

Faztbullet

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Mar 2, 2008
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15,930
In all my 40+ years I can count on both hands the carbs I removed the welsh plugs covering the idle discharge ports. Most of these was due to leaking from previous repairs or corroded. 90% of the time a idle issue is due to the idle or emulsion tube dirty/restricted or stopped up. The best way to clean these is to run a fine wire up the tube to clear it.
 
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