Rebuilt carb won’t start

[studders]

Hello to all. I have a 1989 Baja islander 190 with a 3.0 mercruiser engine. I had a buddy rebuild the carb for me who does know what he’s doing lol and now it won’t start. I primed the fuel system I think enough. It is spraying fuel when I watch it as someone else turns the key. It acts like it wants to start and if I keep the key turned over for a second it will try to run but dies. I did replace my shifter and my cables and those still need to be adjusted. Not sure if that would cause it to not start or what but I would think it would still start up after priming and setting the choke/throttle only. What else am I missing or I could check. Thanks for any response and replies.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... Is the gas yer seein', any good,..?? give it a Smell test,.....

Is there any Spark,..??
Yer vintage may have points ignition, 'n points need to be cleaned or replaced, 'n set every year,.....

 

[studders]

Ayuh,..... Is the gas yer seein', any good,..?? give it a Smell test,.....

Is there any Spark,..??
Yer vintage may have points ignition, 'n points need to be cleaned or replaced, 'n set every year,.....

Yes I’m getting spark. I changed the plugs yesterday as well. I changed the points out last summer but will take apart this evening and clean. The gas should be good. It’s the same gas when I filled up before the winter from winterizing it along with fuel stabilizer.

 

[harringtondav]

Couple possibilities:

Your pal may have guessed on the idle mixture setting. I don't have a 3.0 manual, but typical is to bottom the screw and back off 1-1/2 turns and tweak from there.

Double check the choke plate linkage: Typical cold gap is around 3/16". And the plate should open with increases in throttle. Try manually opening the choke plate a bit while cranking.

Float position is critical. Too high = too rich, flooding. Too low = too lean.

 

[studders]

Couple possibilities:

Your pal may have guessed on the idle mixture setting. I don't have a 3.0 manual, but typical is to bottom the screw and back off 1-1/2 turns and tweak from there.

Double check the choke plate linkage: Typical cold gap is around 3/16". And the plate should open with increases in throttle. Try manually opening the choke plate a bit while cranking.

Float position is critical. Too high = too rich, flooding. Too low = too lean.

Thanks I’ll check these things this evening when I get home

 

[Scott Danforth]

every spring you need to file your points, adjust the gap, check the dwell and set the timing.

 

[TyeeMan]

You mentioned that you can see fuel spray as someone else turns the key. Pretty sure that should not happen with a carburetor. The only time you should see fuel spray in the carb is when you or someone moves the shift/throttle lever. Sounds like you might have float setting too high which allowing the fuel pump to push fuel right through the carb. Your needle and seat are not shutting off.