Recommend me a rust converter

[skunkedskippy]

Looking for a rust converter that won’t break the bank. I don’t put much trust in Amazon reviews so I’d like to hear from real experience. This is for a Mercruiser 5.7 if it matters.

I guess i could also use recommendations on a primer and paint.

Pics below, because everyone likes pics.

 

[chevymaher]

Cider vinegar is one. You tube it. It stops the process of rust on a molecular level. Soak it long enough and it removes it completely. It converts remaining rust to primer. Cost about a buck. I Do auto body work I keep it in the garage as a tool for just this. So the admiral don't get bent when the kitchen supply mysteriously is gone.

Rustolium has a wrought iron brush on patio furniture pant would work nicely for what you want. It is a color that matches the engine color when dry. It has rust inhibitor in the paint. 2.50 a quart.

Wire brush on a drill. Remove the loose stuff. Paint on the vinegar keep wet let soak a 1/2 hour. Rinse with water. Then the patio furniture paint. It wont rust again for a long time years and years.

A rattle can of black engine block paint from a auto body supply is only 6-7 bucks if you choose that route.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I used Rustoleum Rust Inhibitor when I repainted my trailer. Per emails from Rustoleum, I did not use a separate primer other than the Inhibitor. I then painted with Rustoleum oil based enamel with Majik hardener, and the paint still looks good a few years later.

 

[Scott Danforth]

replace the metal fuel line (its 3/8" brake line). grab a wire brush, brush the motor and grab a rattle can of paint. rust will be removed. rust converters do not work.

 

[briangcc]

Since you have the block pulled anyways, take it to a machine shop and let them dip it for you. They can also address any wear items - hone/bore/etc. as part of the process. Will be ready to repaint after that. I've used Bill Hirsch automotive paint on my Pontiac 455 - still looks decent considering the car was stored outside instead of in a garage. Otherwise I've had good results with the spray bomb high temp engine paints from the auto parts chain stores.

I agree above about the line - just replace it as it's not worth the time/effort to clean something that could spring a leak shortly.

 

[Scott Danforth]

if the motor is going into the machine shop, then simply worry about the line after. the machine shop will clean the block and it will look like the day it came from the foundry

 

[skunkedskippy]

Thanks for the excellent replies. The vinegar trick looks amazing but it seems like it needs to soak for at least a day to get good results. Might try it in my sonicater for smaller parts.

Its not stripped down to the block and I have no intention of doing so.

I’ll definitely replace the fuel line and maybe the pump as well.

I will consider all the other suggestions and hope for the best.

Thanks again for the help. Don’t know when I’ll get around to this project but I’ll update the thread with my results, if I remember.

 

[Scott Danforth]

if your not striping the block down, use a wire brush or a wire cup-brush in a drill motor. you are over-complicating it worrying about cosmetic rust on the exterior of a block.

 

[skunkedskippy]

Ok, I’ll let that thought sink in for a bit. So you’re saying I don’t need to treat the rust at all, except for the fuel line? What about on the pulleys or oil pan?

this is a saltwater boat FYI.

 

[chevymaher]

Just clean and paint the stuff. Now it isnt a problem. Why let it become one.

If it is said it wont. They needs to explain that to my Chrysler 318 that leaks oil through the valve cover and oil pan from rust left unchecked before I bought it. Paint is a wonderful thing.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Ok, I’ll let that thought sink in for a bit. So you’re saying I don’t need to treat the rust at all, except for the fuel line? What about on the pulleys or oil pan?

this is a saltwater boat FYI.

wire brush and paint. then application of fluid film or boeshield every 6 months

rust converters dont work anyway.

 

[briangcc]

The block is very thick material. It'll rust through...probably in someone else's lifetime. Only reason I'd consider painting the block is if it is a show boat (entered in contests) OR an older jet boat with an exposed engine. Everything else, close the engine cover and move on.

As for the rest of the accessories...the pulley is more than likely fine as well, just cosmetic. Fuel line, replace it - don't bother trying to resurrect it. Oil pan, sure if its stamped material paint it but IF it's that bad with the engine pulled already just replace it with new.

I agree with Scott - you're really over complicating this.