Recommendation for Repair

Llunker

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 17, 2009
Messages
106
Well today was a bad day on the water --30+ mph winds and I got blown into a dock that was not protected very well and ended with this.

SANY1778.jpg


SANY1779.jpg


SANY1780.jpg


Any suggestions from the Pro's? and Yes that is Metallic flake on the boat. It is a 1997 Nitro Bass Boat.

Does it need to go to the shop or can i do the repairs myself--Have already done minor repairs such as small dings and small(tiny scratches) and have had good success with even some gel-coat and alot of Wet-sanding.

Just didnt know if this was too much to handle though

Any thoughts?
 

TheKatsass

Cadet
Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Messages
14
Re: Recommendation for Repair

Make sure you jump on it quick, as it will start to get moisture in it (fibreglass or wood) and it will rot. If it's fibreglass or fibreglass over wood, just do the normal procedure for repairing fibreglass.

And about that nice purdy paint job, well, you'll never be able to cheaply fix it as metal flake is hard to paint normally(proper layout of flakes) in a good shop.

Do what you can with what you got, sorry.
 

Friscoboater

Captain
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
3,095
Re: Recommendation for Repair

WOW!:eek: I am sorry about that my friend. If it was not metal flake it would not be that bad. Do a search on youtube for fiberglass boat repair and you will find a few good videos.
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
Re: Recommendation for Repair

Make sure you jump on it quick, as it will start to get moisture in it (fibreglass or wood) and it will rot. If it's fibreglass or fibreglass over wood, just do the normal procedure for repairing fibreglass.

Those scratches aren't going cause anything to rot, the only concern is cosmetic.
 

Llunker

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 17, 2009
Messages
106
Re: Recommendation for Repair

ok guys,

Just talked to Mike at North Texas Fiberglass--super nice guy...Anyways he has suggested first off of calling Tracker and giving them my hull# and getting them to order me up some metal flake and the color combo chart for this hull.:)

Great that will help--now I need help with procedure??--I am not afraid of this project and I know it might not come out perfect but I am willing to try.

Does anyone have their procedure in doc. format that I could take a look at how one goes about filling this crack/scratch? like.....

1. feather the edge...
2. fill with colored gel-coat and mix metal flake in...blah blah blah....
3. wet sand after filling ...blah blah blah......

Any help with procedure of doing this will help me out alot.


I really do appreciate any help here
 

bigredinohio

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 18, 2009
Messages
604
Re: Recommendation for Repair

I haven't done this repair but I'd read up on it since I have a metal flake boat with damage.

You definitely want to touch up any base color gel that was damaged then add flake mixed in clear gel then add several layers of clear over that. You shouldn't wetsand between coats as it will probably stay tacky but on the final coat, you want to do your best to seal off the repair area with some wax paper or add a wax addititive for final cure. Afterwards, you will need to wet sand, buff and wax.

I hope that helps.
 

Llunker

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 17, 2009
Messages
106
Re: Recommendation for Repair

After reviewing the photos again it looks as though the base color is black if i am not mistaken. I looked at this how to and you guys tell me what you think?

http://bwbmag.com/output.cfm?id=1015381&sectionid=308

Seems pretty straight forward and all i need to do is apply the black backup pigmented gel-coat which i do have btw. I just need to re-order some more clear metalflake gelcoat from US composites or buy it here locally somewhere.

Seems like the thing to do would be this and someone tell me if i am wrong--Cause I probably am....I re-wrote it to the way I would use this.

Repair of Polyflake Gel-coat !! as taken from the above passage that was written in 2005. --My version as needed on my boat only.

1) The very first step is to thoroughly clean the damaged area with acetone. Why acetone? Because it works well and evaporates quickly.

2) After the wound?s dry, gently wet sand a small area around the scratch with 1200 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper.

3) Clean the area again with acetone and let it dry. Inspect the sanded scratch carefully; you don?t want any chalky residue or debris in the scratch. The new clear coat will magnify anything you missed.

4.) Then take your razor blade and a bright light, and wet the scratch with a little bit of water. With the light, you?re gonna see the wet silver little metalflakes that are sticking up. You?ve got to pick out every one of those little flakes. Use the tip of a utility knife blade to get under the flake and flip it up.

5.) Wet sand around the area with 600-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper to make sure the Clear gelcoat(in my case it would be Neutral Gel-coat with black pigment) you?re about to put on is going to adhere to it. And everywhere that you picked out a flake, you?ve got to put another flake in its place.

6.) Once it?s clean, mix up a small quantity of Neutral Black gelcoat and hardener (catalyst) and fill in the scratch.

7.) If you?re fixing a vertical area(which I am), try blowing them on with a soda straw. Don?t have all the flakes laying one direction.

My real questions come here--if you only apply this once and then lay the wax paper over it--you really only have one layer to work with and when you wet-sand it you will turn those polyflakes a silver color and then you have lost your color of polyflake??? - I would assume you would apply several coats of clear over this initial polyflake that way when you go to wet-sand you don't ruin the look of the newly applied polyflake(gold and blue)...??? Kinda second guessing myself here.??


8.) Now cut a piece of plain ol? wax paper a little larger than the repair and tape the wax paper over the area. Take a small straightedge ? a single-edge razor blade works well ? and drag the edge of the blade over the repair, to smooth out the new gelcoat. Gelcoat cures via a chemical process and will remain sticky if you allow it to air dry. Also, wax paper won?t stick to the clear gelcoat? and it?s cheap.

9.) Pick up your stuff, walk away from the boat and let the gelcoat dry overnight.

10.) Then, carefully buff it out with regular (stage 2, medium) compound. You can get the compound at any automotive shop. That?ll get you a passable scratch repair, doing it yourself.


What do you think???
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
Re: Recommendation for Repair

You are correct, its best to apply another layer of clear over the flake layer so you have something to sand on. Make sure the flake layer is just shy of the surface so when you apply the clear it doesn't leave a hump, or at least much of one. You don't want to sand into the flake layer, if you do it may look odd.
 

Llunker

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 17, 2009
Messages
106
Re: Recommendation for Repair

coming from you ondarvr i know i have it right then--TY !!!

my next question is i didnt have such great results--they were ok when i tryed to use a pre-val sprayer last time i layed just the clear. SO i assume i just barely get enough black neutral coat in there and have a small indention with some sprayed on flake. then cover it and let it do its thing overnight.

The next day though-This is the kicker question i think--This time should i just use a small paint brush and brush on the clear and cover it the same way with wax paper? let it sit overnight again--no sanding.....and one more coat the next day and then try and sand by day three??? I should have a hump slightly larger than the surrounding area by then.

Thanks Ondarvr----guys if you dont know this guy--he is awesome and knows his #$%^.
 
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