Rectifier Replacement

scuba4me

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 12, 2006
Messages
97
Do I need to pull the flywheel to replace the Rectifier on my 1986 Evenrude 140hp outboard?
Its the one tahts water cooled. Manual says to remove the flywheel (Step 1 :) but by the looks of it (without breaking it down) I don?t need to. Just asking so I can prepare to pull it (get a puller) before I start to break it down - if its a must.

Thanks
 

FuriousMob

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 30, 2009
Messages
48
Re: Rectifier Replacement

Most likely there are at least 2 bolts you will not be able to remove from the rectifier/regulator directly under the flywheel. You gotta pop it, and it ain't fun. It took me forever to find a large enough strap wrench to hold the flywheel, and I nearly destroyed a smaller puller on my 100hp. I think I found the strap wrench at Tool Fetch...unfortunately I didn't find it on iBoats. You'll at least need this to torque the flywheel nut back on. Having the right tools to pull that flywheel is essential to avoiding headaches.

Good luck!
 

scuba4me

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 12, 2006
Messages
97
Re: Rectifier Replacement

That?s the reason I?m asking. I hear and read the flywheel can be a pain to pull off this motor. Maybe I will just take it into a shop and have them put the part on for me. I like to do it myself, but I don?t have all the right tools, and I?m guessing the cheapo puller I have won?t be strong enough to do it right anyways. It?s a bummer to have to go through the flywheel to get this little ignition part out.
 

gbb

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 11, 2008
Messages
159
Re: Rectifier Replacement

Had to pull it on my 86 90hp. It was a bit**
 

FuriousMob

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 30, 2009
Messages
48
Re: Rectifier Replacement

I felt the same way as you, but since there isn't a reasonable evinrude mechanic near me, I just pulled the trigger and got the OEM puller. I found it on ebay for a good price though (new is like $70+). The puller and the strap wrench are critical. Make sure you have a socket big enough for the flywheel nut (most medium sized socket sets will NOT have one large enough).

The hardest parts are breaking the flywheel nut and pulling the flywheel with the puller. I broke the nut myself with an extension bar and sort of "wedging" the strap wrench under the flywheel and over the power pack. You have to be mindful of where your flywheel magnets are when doing this...not an issue with my flywheel.

Pulling was techincally easier, but I had a friend stop by on lunch break to hold an extension bar on the strap wrench while I used an extension bar to tighten down the puller. A few twists later and it popped. Took about 5 minutes with his help. My extension bars are just scrap metal tubes from various pieces of trash (old snow shovel handle, old sun umbrella tube). The wife said I was nuts when I saved them, but she wasn't complaining when we were back out on the water! :D

If it just won't budge, I've heard an impact wrench can make short work of this step. If you don't have one and can't borrow one, you might be able to take it up to a local mechanic and pay him a few bucks to break it for you real quick.

The rest is ridiculously easy...just follow the manual AND the specific parts instructions. While you're at it, since you'll probably have to remove the stator to get at the reg/rect, check it out too. Do the ohms resistance tests and check for any "black goo" that isn't just normal electrical sealant. Be sure to use a thread locker as stated in the manual when putting the stator back on.

It seemed like a monumental task for such a simple replacement, but once you've done it once, you'll be able to do it again and know exactly how to work with your specific engine. If you're a DIYer like me, I say go for it and save the money!
 

scuba4me

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 12, 2006
Messages
97
Re: Rectifier Replacement

Furious, Thanks for all that help. The flywheel wrench, puller and breaker bars all sound like a recipe for broken knuckles and teeth, but I think maybe I?ll give it a shot. My biggest problem is that I?m not a good quitter, and once I get started it will be a fight to the death no matter how long it takes me :) Sometimes this ends up costing me more in collateral damage and time then it?s worth to DYI...

I do have a great outboard mechanic not too far away. I guess could always just get him to pull the flywheel for me. It?s not hard to put it back on is it?
 

wilde1j

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 15, 2002
Messages
5,964
Re: Rectifier Replacement

You need to hold it to torque it. Use one of these (flywheel turner) < $25:
 

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FuriousMob

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 30, 2009
Messages
48
Re: Rectifier Replacement

No problem...just trying to pay back the help I received here when I went through this.

That flywheel holder...wish I knew about it. It could replace the need for a good strap wrench if it can be used in conjuction with the puller. If you do plan to have your mechanic pull it for you, then it should do the trick nicely to torque your nut back down. Mine had to be 105 ft-lbs, I think yours is higher, something like 145 ft-lbs. Make sure you get the correct torque and do a clean dry fit on the taper (and it's aligned with the key correctly!). My manual also said to use some gasket sealer on the flywheel nut (NOT THREAD LOCKER).
 

FARSCAPE23

Cadet
Joined
Aug 31, 2010
Messages
16
Re: Rectifier Replacement

On my 88 OMC 140hp i replaced the water cooled rectifier/regulator and had to remove only the power pack located right on top of rectifier. It was a piece of cake without the need to touch the flywheel.
 

scuba4me

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 12, 2006
Messages
97
Re: Rectifier Replacement

So it looks like I got lucky! See the picks tonight I got to the rectifier w/o removing the flywheel. At least so far it looks like it. I haven?t taken it off yet but looks like I have full access now that the plastic piece is off. Any inputs on the condition of my stator while we are at it I attached some picks of it too it looks ok I think?

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FuriousMob

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 30, 2009
Messages
48
Re: Rectifier Replacement

Congrats on that...you sure did get lucky. I don't see any "black goo" from the stator, and since you didn't have to pull the flywheel I wouldn't worry about it now. You can always do a resistance check per the manual. Get that new reg/rect on there, and get back out on the water. I'm hoping to do a catfish run on the James this Monday.
 

bkwapisz

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
441
Re: Rectifier Replacement

You lucky son of a gun! I just did mine and it's a PIA to get that flywheel off, but easy after that. Make sure you reseal that rectifier up well. ;)
 

scuba4me

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 12, 2006
Messages
97
Re: Rectifier Replacement

Yeah I do feel lucky. Looks like the old one was leaking a little. I?m going to spend the time I would have on the flywheel to clean up the corrosion on the motor. I got this rig a couple months ago and this is the last part I?ve got to replace (for now haha) to get it back to 100% working. It will be nice to have a Tach and a battery charge that?s for sure.

The boat looks similar to your avatar pic Furious it?s a early 80's Hydra-Sport 17' CC. Motor compression seems ok I guess at 134&136psi for the top two and 125&128psi for the bottom two (cold), but I haven?t de-carbed it yet and it looks to be full of it.

Thanks for the help. I?m smiling about the no flywheel pulling right now.
 
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