Reduce tabbing of replacement stringers?

[Fossilized]

I am looking at replacing all stringers and transom on my 1989 Wellcraft 215 Eclipse with 350 alpha1.

Since the hull has already been built up considerably from the original tabbing of stringers, what would be the effect (when replacing stringers)of reducing the additional tabbing on the hull to an inch or so from the commonly recommended 4-6"?

Additionally, what is the purpose of running the tabbing several inches up the stringer side? I am thinking about the epoxy bond at the stringer bottom and the effect of the floor that is epoxied to the stringer tops as well as to the hull all along the floor's perimeter.


Thanks to many excellent contributors that have provided me hours of reading while I began my project.

 

[F14CRAZY]

Re: Reduce tabbing of replacement stringers?

I am looking at replacing all stringers and transom on my 1989 Wellcraft 215 Eclipse with 350 alpha1.

Since the hull has already been built up considerably from the original tabbing of stringers, what would be the effect (when replacing stringers)of reducing the additional tabbing on the hull to an inch or so from the commonly recommended 4-6"?

Additionally, what is the purpose of running the tabbing several inches up the stringer side? I am thinking about the epoxy bond at the stringer bottom and the effect of the floor that is epoxied to the stringer tops as well as to the hull all along the floor's perimeter.


Thanks to many excellent contributors that have provided me hours of reading while I began my project.

You want to keep the tabbing staggered out a few inches so that pressure is evenly applied. Some boats will get cracks in the gelcoat around bulkheads, stringers, etc when too much stress is put on a small area. The reverse-overlapping of the layers solves this.

Apologies if I'm not understanding your next question, but the wood of the stringers needs to be completely encapsulated with fiberglass and you want to layer it up to roughly the same thickness that it was originally. My Bayliner was about 3/16'' which came out to 3 layers of 18 oz roving.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Reduce tabbing of replacement stringers?

Hello Fossil...

In production the hull is built with pre-dertermind cuts of glass..then they layup or tab in the stringers to how much energy is going through them.

the "built" up layers where the stringers are may or may not be in the integrity factor of the hull layup/energy displacement of the hull.

you will never know unless you designed it m8.

keep your stringer tabbing 6-8+ inches depending on the force/energy transfer and any given point ...

Lets just say this...you have a roll or so of glass...and some extra cut off...leave that extra 2" on that glass and spend the extra time in grind out.. one half of one grind disc..and a few pints of resin across feet of stringers will give you way much more then cutting the fine line of saving a few bucks in the long run. ( look at your dead pots of resin and cut out slivers of glass...USE them m8.. they help in good ways ) more the marry....

YD.